dauntedfuture
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Posts posted by dauntedfuture
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I would open the gas block. there is a possibility, and i dont think you are going to see much difference in an AR, that if you turn down the barrel you will relieve some stress on the barrel. I dont think you will see much effects on the target. Either option is easy, here in the USA gas blocks come in all shapes and sizes and are availible with a click of a button and an Amazon drone brings it in hours....well...almost.....not yet...we do have easy access to parts here..
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Try some sized brass in the rifle and see what happens. If you can extract that, then its your bullet, crimp or your OAL.
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I just use the same load and powder for my 55s that i use for the 77's. I just checked to make sure accuracy was "good enough" and stuck with that. There is no need for speed for my short range ammo. Hornday 55's, as well as they shoot reletive to other 55's are still not math bullets and your not likely to get much under 1.5" at 100 yds for 10, yes, TEN, shot groups. You can go through the trouble of a ladder test and all if they dont shoot good enough but most of the time your not shooting enough in a ladder test when you consider our 3G rifles and bullets for any real statistical data, your just happening to catch a "good group" There are some combinations of powder and bullets that will just not work well for some reason so you still need to test ammo.
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reference light vs heavy bullets in the .223/5.56: There are many different varities of .224 bullets out there. Construction of the jacket has almost as much to do with will they shoot well or explode from excessive rpms on the way to the target. Unique to the .224 is that many of the lighter weight bullets are designed for varmint hunting and in varmint rifles that were around before there was such a thing as a fast twist .223/5.56 rifle. Twist rates of 1/9 or 1/7 in .223 were uncommon in any factory rifles other than COLT AR-15's in the 1990's as the Colt guns had 1/7 at a time when many others had 1/9 barrels. A 1/9 or 1/9 is simply not required in a .223, .22-250 or .220 when shooting varmint bullets at varmints. Faster twist barrels also wear out faster and exaservate any bullet jacket issues. Benchrest shooting has also proven that there is an optimal twist rate. Getting back to the point: a 52 Sierra BTHP will almost always stay together in a 20" 1/7 barrel where as a 55g SXSP will almost never stay together. Moral of the story is that there is more to it then bullet weight. When looking at the .308 bullet line up, almost none of the bullets were designed for varmint shooting and as a result have thicker jackets. Also consider that factory .308 rifles are 1/10 or 1/12 twist barrels. "light" .308 is not the same as light .224. My advice is that you dont shoot light weight, thin jacketed bullets in a fast twist rifle. Some work and some dont. If you must shoot a light bullet, stick with Nosler BT's or BTHP bullets from sierra or Hornady.
It was/is very common in "the old days" to simply substitute a 52g BTHP in place of a 69-77 BTHP bullet for short range NRA HP matches or pull 55g M193 and replace with 52g BTHPs.
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These are some amazing claims for wolf gold bullets......
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It is possible for the FL die to be adjusted too far down. What happens is that the FL die compresses the shell plate and can smoosh the rim of the cases out. The other possibility is that the brass was fired in a chamber where the face of the bolt was a little on the big size and expanded to fit. I am having a little hard time following what you are describing as your process but understand that the 1500 trimmer has a FL size and trim die. You don't need to FL size and then run the lubed brass into a 1500 trimmer with a size and trim die.
You need to isolate the problem. and determine if your brass processing is smooshing out the brass. Measure the smooshed brass and see what the diameter of the brass is. Measure some cases before you have done anything to them and see what they measure, you might find that its your brass that's the issue before you have done anything.
Now find 10 cases that have "small" bases and FL size them. Measure the base, if they swell then its something there.
try to use only the FL trim die with the 1500 and see what happens with another few cases and see if the bases grow.
Again, hard to follow what your process is but you don't need to FL and use the 1500 with a trim die and the 1500 works best with cases that have NOT been FL sized. You will need to deprime the cases on station one but you don't need to FL.
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if there is really a downpour a baggie on the muzzle is not a bad idea. Water down the bore is not a good thing. water on the scope does not help at all. A scope coat or baggie on the scope is not a bad idea either even if you are starting with the rifle. I keep the muzzle down and cover the rear of the scope as best as i can and remove before i shoot.
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dont worry about the gas tube. Make sure the more is not cloged with lead before you shoot .223. My experience with a 14.5 1/7 and a .22 conversion with the ammo i used did not work well. i suspect it was the ammo but the bore was so clogged with lead that bullets were squeezing down the bore and tumbeling. It took a while to clear the bore. I suspect some more sedate .22 would have worked better bud i abandoned the project.
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Ladies and Gentlemen,
Please clearly post the match location in the first post for the matches. A disturbing trend that I have noticed is that locations are often lacking. While I am sure that “everyone at XXX club” knows where the XXX gun club is, the rest of us do not.
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biglou,
I would not take any information from a 20 yd group other then rifle function, check bullet stability and measure velocity. That is all. If you cant get ammo from factory 55's to 75's to shoot then get a new barrel. I am sure that you are not attempting to seat hornady 75 AMAX (they are 75 and not 77s) to magazine length, if you are then thats part of the problem. Fact of the matter is that there are bad barrels out there or good barrels with bad chamber jobs. Have someone check with a bore scope and gove the rifle a good once over as well as checking the scope mount and paralax, but..., if it will not shoot, take the barrel off. The barrel is about 90+% of making an AR shoot well as opposed to 60-70% or so in a bolt gun.
I really like TAC and a combination of 77's (SMK or TMK) and Hornady 55's for 3 gun. i load them all with the same load of TAC. Primers dont really matter. they shoot same POI/POA at 200 yds. As far as accuracy is concerend, 2" at 200 yds for 10 shots is what im looking for and is realistic with a 6x scope. Keep in mind that not all 55's are made the same and Hornady are about as good a 55 as they come.
Powder can make a big difference even if you are pushing the same bullets at the same velocity out of the same case with the same primer; some just work better. I have tried all manners of powder for my NRA HP loads and i still shoot RL15 at 600.
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What ever you decide i suggest that you put some real money into the optic.
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shoot them out of your buddys gun first...
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The reason that your OAL trim lengths very is that you are trimming indexed off the shoulder of the case. Contrary to popular belief, there is variation in cases when sized. In perticular, if you are picking up range brass fired in different rifles and size it all you will get some different readings or position of the shoulder reletive to the base of the case. As your trimmer indexes off the shoulder you will have variation in the length of the trimmed cases.
You are supposed to keep OAL to 1.750 and 1.760, your trim to length is 1.750 and should be the minimum you trim to. Im practical terms and depending on your rifle, in most cases you can%2
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If you are planning on only having one go to competition rifle with a "nice" optic then i would save your money and get a nice optic. There are not too many things on a rifle that really impact how you shoot. The two items that make a rifle most sutible are a nice trigger and good glass. You will notice a nice trigger with each shot your break and you will notice that you can see targets nice and clear with a nice scope. What you loose with a lower end scope is the ability to see those targets in the shade at range and ot call your hits; on a night bright sunny low humidity day on an E type at 200 yds you will not see the difference, at dusk with humidity on a 300+ grey steel target you will see it. I would also look at the Leupold MK4 MRT 1.5-5, its about 800.00 and is rock solid. Its a little older but works well.
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1. Buy a case guage and make sure your sized brass fits and that you are using a FL die and NOT a NK die. 2. If you are not trimming and your brass is longer than max length then you need to trim the brass too. 3. Make sure that your seating die is not set up to crimp. 4. Measure the ID of the cases, if they are UNDER .221 then you need a different sizing die. 5. Mike the expander ball on the sizing die, it should be .222 or so.
I highly doubt that your rifle is the issue. You DO NOT need a SB FL die. If the ammo fits in the magazine and your loading standard weight bullets i dont think your bullets are seated too long and getting jammed; it could be if you are shooitng 30-40g FB bullets.
"Bullet forced deeper "jamming the rifle" is not a type of malfunction. I suspect that you are having a Failure to feed in that you have a feeding issue. Make sure you lube your dies.
"Wierd bulges in the necks" are usually from shaved pieces of brass or bullet. Pull a few loaded bullets and see what they look like; if there are deep scrateches then relook neck tension or chambefering.
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Check pressure should be natural. Your stock comb and scope ring height control this if you dont have an adjustable cheek piece.
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OAL is too long or your brass is not sized enough or your crimp is out of whack.
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50yds will provide you little to know information for load development. you MIGHT be able to get some informaiton about bullet A vs B dont dont count on much more. Much of the time your inside a scopes paralax at 50. You can see if your rifle will stabilise a bullet or if it comes apart from spinning too fast. You can also measure velocity, ES and SD. In general 2x range = 2x the group plus a little more. As range increases group sizes open up a little. This is why its so "easy" to shoot .2 groups at 100 yds and very hard to shoot a 2" at 1K
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Dont burn your barrel out. Just make sure its clean before you start and all oil is out of the bore and just shoot.
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So i think the question might be a little sillt too but.... what i think you are going to find is that one of the cartridges will produce lower ES and SD numbers. This will more LIKELY be the shorter fatter powder colum. What i think you will really find is that one barrel will last longer then the other, the cartridge where more of the powder burns inside of the case will erode less of the throat and "last longer"
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In my experience, Privi 75g "Match" bullets are complete junk compared to most anything else out there in terms of accuracy I have not tried any of their factory loaded ammo. Remember that there is no stanrard for "Match" or "Match grade" and there is a reason that good bullets cost more.
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you will know if your bullets are coming apart as they will not hit the target or some of the bullets will not hit the target. If you run ANY bullet too fast or spin it too fast, at a certain point it will come apart.
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You can have all the parts before you put things together, however you could get into trouble as you have the ability to put an NFA item together without the stamp. With that said, suppose you have one SBR lower and two SBR uppers and you buy another complete lower, by the same token you could get into trouble, in reality i dont there is an issue with the second set of circumstances however the possibility exists.
You can buy a pistol and then add the stock after you have the stamp back and thats the route i would go so you can actually shoot the thing and get it working first. You would need to buy the pistol or get a stripped lower and build the pistol, you cant build%
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You can have all the parts before you put things together, however you could get into trouble as you have the ability to put an NFA item together without the stamp. With that said, suppose you have one SBR lower and two SBR uppers and you buy another complete lower, by the same token you could get into trouble, in reality i dont there is an issue with the second set of circumstances however the possibility exists.
You can buy a pistol and then add the stock after you have the stamp back and thats the route i would go so you can actually shoot the thing and get it working first. You would need to buy the pistol or get a stripped lower and build the%2
Fire sizing .308 brass
in Rifle/Shotgun
Posted
No. If you wanted, and your shooting a bolt action rifle, you can deprime and reprime the brass, scoop up some powder and place a bullet in the case. Insert case with zero neck tension in rifle and shoot it without an issue. So technically, no you dont. Also, if you have very little to no neck tension in a custom, tight-neck rifle, then you could also get away without sizeing a case.
For 99.999% of other rifles and for all practical purposes, yes you need to at least neck size the cases each time you shoot. For a bolt gun, .001-.002 neck tension is sufficient, for a semi auto .002-.004.
I FL size all my brass for all my guns to include NRA LR 1000 yd rifles. Your primer pockets will open up before your necks split or your cases seperate in most cases when your running hot loads. When primers start getting loose i trash the brass.