hump

Thinking about ordering one of the 5"ss models. Is anyone familiar with these or have knowledge of known issues?

What OAL are you running. I have a standard Tac Ultra HC and have had some issues with factory ammo. Seems to run ok with longer loads,

I am running a 9and 40 RIA and after some minor tuning both are very reliable. Not Glock reliable but as reliable as the other 2011's I compete against. The of these guns makes them much more comfortable to shoot. So far the only failure has been an extractor on the 40

My extractor decided to give up today and I wanted to see if anyone had experience with the WC bullet proof extractor. I readjusted mine after the match and ran 3 mags without a failure but I still don't trust it.

Has anyone done a trigger job on their RIA hi cap using the factory trigger group parts. I plan to have a local gunnsmith work on both my guns to get the trigger under 3lbs and wondered if I need to replace the internals when I do this. I have cleaned up the factory triggers and they are now about 4lbs and are very reliable.

The mag basepad should not touch any part of the magwell when the mag is seated. I had issues with mags not dropping free from my 40 and ended up changing the slide lock.

I bought a Dawson magwell and I did not fit. The Dawson extensions work with the factory magwell with some minor modification. My 9mm gun only took minor fitting but my 40 cal took much more fitting. I ended up opening up the magwell and blending it to the frame and still had to remove some metal from the extensions.

Forgetting to tighten the set screw on the factory magazine base pad is not a good thing. I blew a match due to this. When I shoved the mag into the gun the basepad slid off and dropped the spring and bullets on the ground. I now have Dawson pads on all my mags.

I read this article and called the shop mentioned in story and modified my gun and magazines myself. It took some patience but it runs reliably now. http://www.thetacticalbay.com/product-reviews/2014/11/17/rock-island-armory-tactical-2011-hi-cap-9mm-overviewinitial-impressions

I talked to Armscor and was told that they would install a ramped barrel under warranty. My non ramped gun took some tuning but it currently runs great.

I use the stock springs and followers. I set the lips @.350 and trim the follower to lock back on an empty mag.

Para's with dawson pads

I ended up getting both. I use the 9 for 3 gun and IDPA and the 40 for uspsa limited.

I had to heat my BladeTech holster to get my 40 HC to fit. My 9 HC fit without any modifications. After heating it to fit the 40 I just need to tighten the tension screw slighty to fit the 9.

I use a blade tech for my 9 and 40 HC's. The 40 was a little tight so I used a heat gun to get it to fit. I just tighten the tension screws slightly for the 9.

What did you do to solve your nose dive problem? Did it happen with a full magazine? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I changed the angle on the frame slightly, opened up the feed throat on the barrel and modified the magazined by adjusting the feed lips to .350" and taking shortening the feed lips until the rounds fed smoothly when I ride the slide forward slowly.

My non ramped gun is running great. The nose dive problem is solved. Are their any other advantages to sending the gun back to have it updated.

What recoil spring works best in the 9mm tactical guns? I was told to use a 8# but that seems very light. I am shooting 130 pf loads

What does a #6 follower look like. I am having these same issues.

I had planned to buy a CZ but ended up trading a Glock G22 even for a NIB 930SPX Mossberg. I opened up the loading port and welded up the lifter and it has been perfect. I shoots anything I put in it.

I welded up the lifter on my 930 but did not slot it to get the weight back to factory specs. It runs fine but after reading some other posts I wonder if I should go back and mill the slots into the lifter. This along with opening up the loading port and cutting the forearm made a huge difference when loading the gun.

Ok, I figured it out. The trigger bar was bent slightly causing the bar to ride to far from the frame as it moved back toward the connector. It was shifting outward and this is the tight spot I felt. I compared it to my other guns and even though it was very slight it did not look the same. I now have the slick 3.5 lb I am supposed to have.

The safety plunger is polished mirror smooth and recontoured to smooth out the take up. I will remove the plunger and see what happens.

I have a g22 I use for Limited and bowling pin shooting. The take up on the trigger has a tight spot about 1/8" before it breaks. I have used four different connectors, repolished everything changed out springs and substituted parts from my other Glocks but the spot is still there. It doesn't affect the reliability and doesn't seem to bother the accuracy but it still bothers me. I can post pics but I am not what to take pictures of since everything looks exactly my other guns. Any ideas?