Dan-O-Mite

No problem there, it's part of the same order along with a couple other goodies.

After all my polishing, it seems to be resetting everytime now. Also, the trigger pull seems to be a little lighter now too, bonus. I can't wait for my new hammer spring to get here as that will help to get it where I would like it to be. I shot a CZ Tactical Sport for several years and that trigger was under 2 lbs, and it came from the factory that way. I have to admit though, this trigger seems crisper, it's just a little heavier than I would like. Come on hammer spring!

Well it's better but still needs some work. I'll try a little more work in the same area, but I will also look at polishing the whole trigger bar as it looks to be rubbing slightly against the frame. I'll also polish the frame in that area. Otherwise it is great. I definately like the straight trigger more. The pre and over travel adjustments are also an improvement. Now that I have had the trigger apart, I can see how that old spring system would be a real pain in the a** to deal with. It seems the old spring system made the trigger pull a little heavier, probably that's why I didn't have resetting issues before. By the way, the trigger slipped right in without any problems. I definately like how there is no more side to side movement. The old trigger was angled to one side, almost to the outside of the trigger guard, . Great design Henning, I'm looking forward to your new hammer and sear. Any word when those might be available? How do you expect them to differ/improve over the factory stuff?

Hey it worked. I increased my OAL to 1.20" and no more feeding problems. So last night I was restless, and decided to get my new trigger installed. I did have a bit of trouble getting the trigger to fully reset sometimes. It seems to me that where the trigger bar meets the plunger in the mag release was very rough. The trigger bar was quite scored up. I did alot of sanding with some 400 grit wet/dry sand paper to smooth most of it out. There are still lines visible, but it feels much more slippery now. It does seem to be resetting better, so I'm off to the range to try it out. I guess I'll see how good my "limited" gunsmithing skills are.

I do have the 10.75lbs recoil spring and the 13 lbs. hammer spring in the mail. I was just wondering what the factory was putting in, but no one seems to know for sure. Might be something that gets replaced before I get too used to it, with something I know the value of. At least I will know what to replace it with, and have the gun still perform as I am used to. Thanks for the replies guys. Dan

Hey, does anybody know what the recoil spring weight is on the factory installed spring? The spares that come with it are, 5.09kg/11.20lbs. and 5.59kg/12.30lbs. I have a Limited Custom with the slide lightening. I tried doing a search but came up with no answers. Any help?

Oh man! I missed it by that much. I have received some of those parts just this week, and others are currently in the mail. Looks like the early bird can be too early.

Thought I should add a couple pics of my new gun. Already got my new Henning slide pin installed. I'll wait a bit before installing the new Henning trigger. I want to get the feeding issue dealt with first. I think my next step is to try loading longer. I have been trying to shoot my old CZ rounds, but they are only 1.160". I've gotten my mag lips to the recommended size of .385", so OAL is the next thing on my list to try.

The one I have is only polished on the sides of the frame and slide. The top and bottom and back end of the gun are a non-shiney finish, almost like a 2500 grit sand paper. I don't plan on seeing much of the sides of my gun while shooting. I'll see how it goes once I get back to shooting outdoors. For the next 3 months at least, it's indoor only here in "Winter"peg.

Hey I got my new Limited Custom with the chrome finish, . It is very nice. Well I did have two issues. First one, the slide stop keeps locking the slide back while I'm shooting. I don't think it is me causing it, but it doesn't really matter. I already have a Henning slide pin in the mail, so that won't be an issue once it gets here. The second issue was feeding problems. I believe it was related to the mags, thanks to some good info I got from this forum. I narrowed the feed lips a little bit, and my last 50 rounds went off no problem. I was able to press on the outside of the mag to make them a little narrower, how does everybody else do it? One of the posts I found here said to use needlenose pliers, but that makes me a little nervous.

Thanks for the reply guys, I was leaning towards the chromed finish anyways, you just made me feel better about it. Never had one of those really shiney guns before, looking forward to it. Should be in my hands on Sunday.

If you have a standard slide, then get it lightened, should you change your recoil spring? First off, it's lighter and will move faster, does this mean you should get a heavier spring to slow it down? Or, does the lighter weight factor mean you can go with a lighter spring? Or, does everything balance out in the end and you should stick with the original spring? Anyone have some science behind this?

I wasn't aware that there was any limit. The gun has to fit the box, and it can't weigh over 43 oz. I guess I don't really understand the question. You trying to build up the grip for large hands? I haven't heard of any weight restrictions for IPSC which I am familiar with, or any other sport which I am not very familiar with. Which shooting sport are you refering to?

Thanks Skydiver. That sounds like some great advice. You mention tweaking the sear spring. I don't have my actual Limited custom yet, another week or two, so I'm not sure what the sear spring looks like. I would think it's fairly easy to tell how to tweak the spring when you look at it, but I could be wrong. How did you tweak it?

I'm talking about installing the new hammer and sear with the larger pins. It's recommended to have a gunsmith do this for you. But it doesn't look all that complicated to me. Is reaming the pin holes harder than it looks? I think the hardest part would be fitting the sear and the safety, from what I've read here. But even that seems to be done by several people here. I realize the problems with doing it wrong, but with a little experience and a basic understanding of the function of parts, I can do this correctly, can't I? Have you? Can you pass on any pointers?

Not sure why some cannot, or maybe are just not willing to see that there is a grey area here. I simply suggest that a little better wording would clear things up for everyone, with (dare I say) no chance for misinterpretation. Then again, some like grey areas as they are because it gives them room to wiggle out of the holes they dig for themselves. I'm fine with no wiggle room, and prefer absolutes. Less wasting of my time. Anyways, on to new things.

Rule 10.2.1 reads as; A competitor who fires shots while any part of their body is touching the ground beyond a Fault Line will receive 1 procedural penalty for each occurance. However, if the competitor has gained a significant advantage on any target(s) while faulting, the competitor may instead be assessed 1 procedural penalty for each shot fired at the subject target(s) while faulting. The part that gets me is "1 procedural penalty for each shot fired at the subject target(s) while faulting". Since there are "subject" targets, and "other" targets from the same location, it seems like two different instances to me. I still think it could use some clarification, or else we wouldn't still be talking about it.

Thanks for the replies so far. I like to hear that it's hard chromed. Anyone know what the GK finish is?? I thought it was blued, but I heard it's something else. Any more info on it?

I understand what you are saying, but I disagree with you. If there were no significant advantage targets, there would be only one procedural for the easy targets. Now with the addition of the significant targets, (and they distinguish and seperate themselves from the rest of the targets by definition), you must add to what is already counted. I stand by my count of five proceduals, and depending on the Range Master I get that day, I say I have about a 50/50 chance of being supported. This really seems to be a grey area. Perhaps this is something that needs clarification in the rule book. It's currently too open to interpretation.

So you see it as one procedural each for the significant advantage targets, and no procedural for the remaining targets shot while faulting the line? Hope you are R.O.ing me when I have my next brain fart.

This is my vote.

I was thinking that the shiny one might stand up a little better to wear and tear. Do you know what the finish is?

I have an aluminum mag well on my CZ Tactical Sport. It's pretty beat up, and has begun to fit loosely, it was only a slide on fit. I had to drill and tap a small set screw to keep it from falling off. My vote is for stainless steel material. If I was really worried about a little weight, I wouldn't be getting a bull barrel and full length dust cover on my new Tanfo gun.

Well I had it all worked out with my gun dealer. He was going to bring in 2 Limited Custom II, black with the slide cut outs and aluminum grips, and he was going to let me see both of them so I could pick the one I wanted. I wanted this gun because I wanted the slide lightened, and I didn't want wood grips. Well now he tells me he can only get one black one, however,... the second gun he is bringing in, is the silver finish with slide lightening and aluminum grips!!! Damn, I didn't even know it was offered!!! I assumed the black one had a blued finish, but what is the silver finish, hard chrome, nickel??? I would apprieciate any information on the two finishes that are available. I am really leaning towards the silver finish, what are the good and bad points to consider. They should be here next week so I have a little time to do my research.

I don't like to have too much air on either side of the front blade, I find it more difficult to be accurate at distance, although it is a little faster to pick up the sights on the close targets, (but who uses sights on close targets ). My current front sight fiber optic is only 1mm. and I often don't even remember seeing it. I seem to mostly use the outline of the front blade, within the rear notch, for my accuracy. I have thought about just going back to a simple, although good quality, flat black front sight. Maybe even using some sight black. Anyone else doing this?