Dan-O-Mite

I like the comment about making it more robust. I was at the Canadian IPSC Nationals and had the elevation screw bust right off on a medium size stage. When the slide cycled back, the sight would pivot and stand up, then as the slide went forward, the sight would come back down. Don't know how, but I didn't get a miss. However, I was a little slow as I had to wait for the sight to fall back into place after each shot.

Well I just got back from the last local match before the Nationals. I'm glad I took those couple days off from shooting. I think it helped me to clear my head a bit. I did manage to shoot a couple stages about as well as I could hope, and won them. I did have one brain fart moment where I stepped over a fault line for 2 shots, ouch. Still came in with 83% for that stage, might have won it if I hadn't stepped over. All in all, not a terrible day, and I walked away as the Standard Winner by 8%. A nice confidence booster right before the Nationals. I still have 8 or 9 days until I leave for the match, probably look to get in 2 or 3 more live practices. Again, just really working the fundamentals, then "just shoot" at match time. Thanks again for the advice guys.

Thanks for all the advice guys. I know some of my best matches were ones where I was not focused on the end result, I had shooting goals in mind. The last couple days I really cut back on the practice, and I feel a little more positive. I've been thinking back to matches I did well at, and what was on my mind then. Usually it was to just shoot. Let all the subconscious knowledge do the work, while the conscious gives direction. At this point my plan is to get in 3 or 4 days of practice over the next week and a half, really work on fundamentals. Then at match time, just shoot. Know what I want to do, visualize it, and do it. Not much more I can do then that. Thanks again for letting me clear my head here a bit. You guys are great listeners.

In 2 weeks I will shoot at the Canadian IPSC Nationals. Over the last 4 years I have worked my way in Standard Division from 30th (my first Nationals) to 16th last year (my 3rd Nationals). After last years match I told myself, and many others, that my sights were set on Top 10 for this year. I've had quite a bit of time to practice this year, and the last 3 months I have stuck pretty close to my schedule for live fire and dry fire practice. Everything has been progressing well. A month ago, I won a local match by 15%, the largest margin of victory I've ever had in these parts. I was convinced everything was coming together. Then my gun broke, slide cracked. No others like it in the country right now. Had to buy another version of the gun, not liking it as much. Came in second at the next 2 matches. I now seem to be in a bit of a depressed/frustrated/fu@k it state of mind. I realize that part of it might be from all the practice, a little burned out. The gun that broke was only 4 months old, but it just fit me. The balance was about perfect, the sights just lined up all by themselves. I only shot 2 matches with it, but both were clean, no Mike's or PT's, the first 2 matches of my life like that. The 2 matches with the new gun, a couple Mike's returned. The difference between the guns, one has a lightened slide the other does not. Now, how to get my head back in the game, stay focused, and do my best? I know that if I think about results or not reaching my goals, I won't be at my best. I do have one more match this weekend before the Nationals. I plan to keep my thoughts on fundamentals, grip, sight alignment, being smooth. However, I find I don't have the calmness/confidence of mind that I had just a month ago. Other then telling myself to "just do my best and have fun", anything else I can do to increase my motivation to do well? In the past, when I'm motivated to do well, I do.

Yes I did. He messaged me asking for a pic of the change I made. Who woulda thunk it, little ol' me helpin' design a product that you guys might be using one day.

Here is a pic of the modified lock I came up with to eliminate the movement. Mine is on the left.

Well I got my Race Master today. Can't say that it has lived up to it's hype. One of the reasons I picked this holster over the Ghost (which I have heard drop guns and have a lot of wiggle in them) is that this one is suppose to hold the gun "rock solid". Well mine doesn't. There is about 1/8" of up and down movement before the slider which holds the gun hits the lock. When all the way down, it's not too bad, a little bit of rocking. However when it is up, against the lock, it does rock quite a bit. It would bother me to have to be running after someone R.O.ing them and have my gun bouncing around in the holster, although that is better than falling out. I have left a message for Saul on the DAA forum to see if there is something he recommends. I suspect I will end up installing a small set screw to take up the slack between the slider and the lock. Should be fairly easy and work very well. Otherwise it seems quite good.

After putting in my order back in March/April, CED finally got it in the mail 2 weeks ago. Not the color I wanted but I'm tired of waiting so took a black one. I expect it to get here this week, Hennings orders get here in 10 days or less. I'll let you know when I get a chance to try it out.

I plan on doing this with my second Limited Custom (no slide lightening), because my first Limited Custom (with slide lightening) did crack on the lower part of the slide. I wasn't using buffers. Tanfoglio has removed metal from the recoil spring area as part of the factory lightening, this is the area that makes contact with the frame, and it's where mine cracked. I've only had it about 4 months so I expect I should have no problems with my warranty covering the damage. I will find out when I get my claim in. Didn't mean to hi-jack the thread, just use a buffer especially in the lightened slides.

I just got my second Tanfoglio Limited Custom. I was having some issues with failure to extract, about 1 out of 50. I had ordered an extra extractor for my first gun but hadn't needed it yet, so I put that in. The last 250 rounds went with no issues. Now the two extrators looked exactly the same to my eye, except that the one Henning sent me had a number "40" on it and the one that came out of the gun had the number "45". Do these numbers mean anything important, like caliber? The gun is a .40 S+W so I'm just wondering if I should toss the extractor because it's the wrong caliber, or keep it for the first gun cause it's no good in the second gun. By the way, I tried to install the new extractor with a Wolf extra power spring, my thumbs are still hurting. The new extractor went in with the factory spring, I gave up on the Wolf spring after a 1/2 hour. I may have tried longer (or used better tools), but I was at the range. Wolf isn't kidding around when they say extra power. ouch.

I see, so it's better to have a larger contact area, less lbs per square inch. The fitting process does sound like a lot of time involved, but certainly worth it in the end. Thanks Cha-Lee.

Hey Cha-Lee, I'm looking to improve my trigger job. I've already polished all the major parts that tend to slide or rub together, trigger bar, frame, mag plunger. I also have the 13lb hammer spring installed as well as Hennings trigger. The part of the trigger bar that meets the mag release plunger was heavily scored up and I have polished it quite a bit already. However, there are still some lines present. I notice when squeezing the trigger that it's not quite as crisp as I would like. I can feel the action start to move and then it stops, and with a little more squeezing the hammer finally drops. I can see the sear starts to move against the hammer, then it stops, and then finally lets go. With the factory trigger installed, there is no stop and start, but I suspect this is because of a heavier trigger pull and the extra effort required to activate it. I don't have a trigger pull scale, but I would guess my weight to be around 3lbs. I suspect 2 areas that could use improvement, the trigger bar and mag plunger area, and the sear and hammer area. I'm a little hesitant to play with the sear and hammer angles and edges, but is there something you could suggest to improve the trigger bar and plunger area, or is there another area I'm overlooking? As far as my trigger bar and plunger are concerned, they both have similar curves to them, so I'm thinking this makes for a lot of contact area, and perhaps alot of friction. I've thought about putting more curve on the plunger and flattening the trigger bar a bit to lessen the contact area, what do you think? I hope you don't mind parting with a few of your trigger job secrets, but I would forever be in your debt, which means I would owe you a few of these if we ever happen to meet. Thanks Cha-Lee.

Yes they did Skydiver, here are some pics with my washed out factory sight, and the two you sent to me with the serrations. I decided to stick with the factory size sight, the shorter one seems like it would be a little harder to line up quickly due to the reduced size. I can see now why Hennings sights are taller than factory. uncut.bmp cut.bmp short cut.bmp

Well thanks to a couple people, one from here who donated a couple spare front sights that he had laying around, and a friend at work who runs a CNC mill, I now have 2 serrated front sights. One is the same size as the one currently on my gun, and the other is shorter. I'm hoping the shorter one will work as I can then turn down the elevation on my rear sight which is at just about the max. All I have left to do now, is re-blue it/them, and install it. I'll have to make a stop at the local sporting goods store to buy a blueing kit tomorrow. I'll get some pics. posted once everything is done. Thanks again to the member from here who donated the parts to me. I'm not sure if you want to be named in public, but your generosity is much apprieciated. I will look for you at the Canadian IPSC Nationals, probably mostly around the bar as I feel I owe you at least a drink or two.

Yeah, it helps to cut down on the glare. As for the size, I'd prefer one the same size as factory, width and height. My rear sight is at the upper most limit already, I don't need a taller front sight, unless I can get a longer elevation screw and longer springs for the rear sight. I am including a pic of a serrated front sight that I got somewhere for comparision.

I have thought about using the putty on the grips, but it's new to me. With less then three months until our Canadian IPSC Nationals I don't think I want to try experimenting now. I think I will just get some of Hennings grips for now, and experiment with the putty in the fall. Thanks for the info and the links, .

It looks like you have some kind of grip tape on the putty, what did you use? I've been using skate board tape, and it's not flexible enough to mold around bends and corners, unless there is some trick I don't know about. Yours looks almost like it was made of shrink tube or something that molds right on to the surface.

Ok, you got me. I kind of exaggerated a bit. There was only one spot that got rubbed raw. The palm of my hand, right where the muscle of the thumb is on my support hand. This area sits right in the depression of the hollow aluminum factory grips. I placed grip tape in there to try and settle things down, but it is so narrow there, I just don't seem to be able to grip it tight. Or maybe the raised edges keep me from getting a solid grip, they do seem to be an odd design for factory grips. I figure Hennings new grips with checkering are significantly thicker in this area, and expect they will cure this issue. I used to shoot a CZ Tactical Sport with aluminum grips, and they had grip tape as well and had no issues what so ever. But the whole frame of the CZ is thicker, making gripping it a little easier, for me at least.

I was able to check out someone elses gun with the black anodized grips, they do have some bite to them. Not as much as the grip tape would have, but not bad. I tried some grip tape on the hollow factory grips recently, and proceeded to remove most of my callous' along with some healthy tissue. Evidense of how much the gun was moving in my hands with those hollow aluminum grips. I'm thinking I will get the clear anodized checkered grips, and if I still think the gun moves too much then I could file down the checkering and put on the grip tape. But I think the fuller grip panel with the checkering will be good. Thanks for the input guys, always appreciated.

So I've finally decided to get some new grips for my Limited. I've tried to get used to the hollowed out factory aluminum grips, but I just can't seem to get a solid hold. Now I'm torn between Hennings stainless checkered and the titanium checkered. Anybody have some pics they can share so I can see what they actually look like installed? I'm kind of leaning towards the titanium, I'm just wondering how dark are they? My Limited is the hard chromed version. I see the grips are offered in Bear Coat and annodized, is there a benefit of one over the other? Thanks guys.

I've used a fiber sight on my CZ, and most times I don't even remember seeing it because I'm using the outline of the front sight to get my sight picture. It even fell out on me one time, I didn't even notice until after I got to the next stage and was in the process of LAMR. I didn't want to hold things up, so just shot it the way it was. A couple people asked me if I found it distracting, and when I thought about it, I didn't even notice. I'm just used to looking to make sure I have even space on each side of the front sight, and that it's lined up on top. With the flat front sight, it can be hard to see sometimes in certain lighting. Most times outdoors, not much of an issue, but there have been one or two. Our indoor range however, has florescent lights, and that's where most of my issues are.

I've tried a couple markers on the front sight, but the flat steel just seems to leave more of a shine then I would like. I still think that a blued front sight with the serrations is the best way to go, but I might try the sight black first seeing as it's the cheapest option.

Yeah I thought about the sight black, but figured if I can get something permanent that would be better. I've never tried it, what's it like? I assume a matt/non-shiney finish, but how does it clean up if you get over spray, how long does it last, etc. Thanks for any info you can offer.

I have never done any checkering, and expect that getting the serration lines level and consistantly spaced takes a little experience. I don't want to be distracted looking at the poor job I did. As for making the sight black again after working on it, how is it normally done? You're not trying to stop me from sending Henning some more of my money, are you?

Hey Henning, I was wondering if you have considered making a front sight with serrations to prevent any glare, like rear sights have? I have been shooting my Limited Custom with the factory front sight. However, some of the lighting conditions, mostly indoor, are not great, and I can sometimes get a glare or washed out view of the flat front sight. Would it be possible for you to take one of the factory sights that you sell, and add the serrations and re-black it? If I thought I could do a decent job, I'd do it myself, but I'm sure I'd mess up such exacting details. I like the dimensions of the factory sight, just looking to make it easier to see clearly. Dan