AriM

I think the Redding is a superior die....it has a unique mechanism for guiding the bullet into the case, before seating....it ensures that the alignment is darn near perfect....basically it's spring loaded and puts even pressure on the bullet, to ensure it's feeding in the case mouth totally straight.... saster....can you tell me where you found the wadcutter insert for the competition dies? I have looked all through reddings catalog and couldn't find one....I would really like to have one myself....also can you tell me what complaints you might have about the die....you said it's "OK"....I assume that means that you are not 100% happy with it?? I would really like to know what problems you might have had with it....thanks

Flex....are you being serious?? Do I have to start a new thread to ask if jacketed bullets wear out a barrel faster than lead?? yer pulling my leg right? I asked that you share the specifics of the circumstances that you wore out pistol barrels with. Your bullet, powder, load, primer, velocity, round count...etc. Wore out an SA (dunno who makes their barrels) barrel in my 1911, after about 6000 rounds of factory hardball....couldn't give you an exact velocity....never bothered to chrono. any of it....so as far as I can guess 45 automatic 230 grain RN powder : unknown primer : winchester (I assume) the barrel got to a point where it wouldn't even group from 5 yards away...and visually there was almost NO definition between the lands and grooves been shooting lead ever since....probably have tens of thousands of rounds through various barrels...they show signs of wear, but it's certainly better than the FMJ was...do you really think anyone would care if I did a more in-depth analysis? I would be happy to start a topic and dedicate it to my experience and other peoples....I could post some pictures, but I just assumed that it was pretty common knowledge that jacketed bullets will nuke a barrel faster than lead....it's one of the reasons that I said I can't see one good thing about jacketed projectiles in un-compensated pistols (shooting under 1700fps.) either way I still you man

Jim, It's a random picture I found on google images, when I typed in the keywords "gay pitbull".....read a little bit earlier in the thread....I thought it might be good for a laugh.... I like your idea about stealing wheel weights....that never even crossed my mind I am in total agreement that making stuff from "junk" is cool....but the problem with swaged bullets, is that you have to start with a lead core anyhow.....since there is no benefit to jacketed bullets in un-compensated pistols (under 1700fps)....I just can't see the point, but that's just me I guess do you cast Jim? Ari M.

I will agree with that 100%....I had to use a chore boy last night to get some moly out of my bore....and I was a bit pissed when I looked down the barrel with my bore scope....do you know of a way to accurately measure wear on the barrel lands....w/o slugging the bore each time? I am really currious to know how much damage I am doing each time I clean....I know for sure that this brand new barrel does not look so new anymore.....and it's only had 1500 or so moly coated lead rounds through it....it seems like I have to clean it every 200 to 300 rounds, or the accuracy really starts to fall off....you think I am just being paranoid?? A couple of things that were shared with me from respected persons. 1- (from a record setting benchrest shooter) the powder fouling is the worst thing for a barrel after it sits approx 30 min. It starts off soft but hardens to the extent that it will scratch glass. Additionally, most barrels shoot better fouled. 2- More than one notable person, has said to clean a bore after firing lead just shoot some jacketed. If you shoot jacketed dont do anything aside from maybe some oil on a boresnake. Thats what I have been told by trusted sources anyhow & its plenty good for me. edited to add: the oil is simply for corrosion resistance if its going to sit around a while so I am a bit confused...."powder fouling is the worst thing for a barrel"...."most barrels shoot better fouled" I haven't noticed any accuracy problems with fouling from straight hard cast projectiles (I don't shoot jacketed)....I have noticed horrible problems from moly though....I know I know, it's a lube.....but as soon as it get's cold, it's a layer of metal....don't believe me....let your barrel sit with moly in it until it hardens....then take a brass jag and push a patch through the bore...look at what comes out on the patch... I have heard the thing about firing jacketed after lead, but I was told that 100 rounds are the minimum to clean up....that's more jacketed than I want through my barrel, and more money than I want to spend....what about those cleaning slugs?? I have yet to find a good way to clean up moly....without damaging a barrel.... maybe I should just leave the moly in there, and heat my barrel up before shooting (I am serious)....I could easily bring a heat gun to the range I am glad you are talking with me about this....I would like to know more, if you can tell me anymore....thanks for the information so far...I appreciate it edit : do you think the barrel would shoot better fouled, because the fouling is a layer that actually decreases the size of the bore? same as shooting an over sized bullet?? I could see that working out...

wow!!! I have never seen one of those....very cool....I wish I knew where one was around here.....would love to try it out.... $3500....hmmmm, a bit steep ?

In the past, I have heard others mention this too but I still don't understand the physics of this statement. How is it possible for a brass bore brush to cause more wear to a barrel than a series of scorching hot bullets traveling at ~900 FPS? Its not so much the brush but whats on it. Solvents and such can etch metal. I have also heard of people using things like JB paste, which removes metal. Lastly the rod, this may be less of an issue with pistols but things like regular GI steel rods are hard on things if they contact the chamber, muzzle or bore. I rubber coat all of my cleaning rods for this very reason....you can use that Plasti-Dip stuff that you use to coat screwdriver handles.....that and a crown/rod guide help a lot

In the past, I have heard others mention this too but I still don't understand the physics of this statement. How is it possible for a brass bore brush to cause more wear to a barrel than a series of scorching hot bullets traveling at ~900 FPS? lack of proper lube? just going out on a limb there....I would really like to know more about this as well

I will agree with that 100%....I had to use a chore boy last night to get some moly out of my bore....and I was a bit pissed when I looked down the barrel with my bore scope....do you know of a way to accurately measure wear on the barrel lands....w/o slugging the bore each time? I am really currious to know how much damage I am doing each time I clean....I know for sure that this brand new barrel does not look so new anymore.....and it's only had 1500 or so moly coated lead rounds through it....it seems like I have to clean it every 200 to 300 rounds, or the accuracy really starts to fall off....you think I am just being paranoid??

nothin' wrong with a man lovin' a dog....right?

I already know the answer to this....and I am sure most everyone else does as well.....but someone asked me to start this topic....I am respecting that request....

that's so mean, yet

Flex....are you being serious?? Do I have to start a new thread to ask if jacketed bullets wear out a barrel faster than lead?? yer pulling my leg right?

yeah, like we talked about before....I am really considering getting into manufacturing projectiles....I can make some damn good ammo....I don't know a hell of a lot about competition and shooting USPSA/idpa/IPSC etc.....but one thing I do know is ammunition....I have put hundreds, if not thousands of hours into development and research....there are things that make sense, and things that just yeild no benefit....in fact jacketed bullets not only cost more and have very little performance gain (in un-compensated guns), they wear your expensive barrel out faster....that is a HUGE minus for me.... EDIT : one odd thing I have noticed...and I have no proof or data to back this up.....hollow points do seem to be more accurate....that's just my experience....I can't back it up with any data....sorry i wish I could...

been down that road....even a good O-frame single stage will not last under the pressures required for forming jackets out of harder materials....the threads in the handle will strip or the base mount will break....been there.... and I can't see why a 1050 would be stepping out on a limb for anyone....just the fact that it swages primer pockets and primes on the downstroke (which let's you set seating depth) is reason enough to get one....even if you don't shoot 4k round a month....if I had the $$ I would def. get a 1050.... same goes for casting...I think at some point all of us will start casting...it's not just saving money....you can cast a projectile that is a perfect match to your barrel, and then lube it with a lube that is perfect for your shooting conditions....those seem like very fruitful investments... let me make an offer to you guys....if enough of you are interested....and are willing to cover my costs....I will buy the necessary tools to make some custom jacketed bullets for you....not for profit, but just to see if it really is worth it at the end of the day....my money says it isn't, but maybe I am wrong.... slug your barrel and then mail me the slug....I will cast and form an exact match....I think once you see the benefits of that method, you will want to start doing it yourself....the jacketed thing only makes sense for compensated pistols though.... I am not asking you guys to blindly trust me, just take my advice...that I have been down this road....and the benefits are NIL the benefits of a bullet cast for your bore are worthwhile though

that's exactly what I said about 3 posts ago....I just see no benefit to jacketed bullets...UNLESS, you are shooting HV or compensated pistols....

new corbin press is more like $1200

I would be worried less about weight and more about wall thickness and inconsistencies in the brass....a jacket separating in the barrel would be bad.....but to be fair...the pressure generated does "bond" the jacket/core....but if there was even a slight crack or thin spot....it really could lead to trouble.... also what are the long term wear problems with a brass jacket? are montana golds a brass jacket?? I just as soon stick to hard cast lead...I see no benefit to jacketed bullets....UNLESS you are shooting HV or a comp. gun

read my post earlier....corbin sells core molds for casting cores....then all you would need would be 2 dies....one to form the jacket and one to finish the projectile....I am just not sure the RCBS will last very long using it that way....also it might torque out a bit, and give you less than ideal results (usable I am sure).....the corbin presses are super heavy duty....and align on 3 axis.....they are really the ultimate single stage....the only thing I can think of that would be close would me a forster/buffalo co-ax I bet you could go to the scrap yard and find some old oven hoods......or other stamped thin sheet metal....I still don't see the point though....gas checks are damn near free and I see no problem with bare hard cast lead....if anything I would prefer to shoot lead....I know my barrel wasn't cheap....and I am in no hurry to fit a new one....so no jacketed for me.... P.S. most of the "black bullets" are swaged.......I have been thinking about casting lead cores and simply using a finishing gun (detail sprayer) to coat them with a moly/lube....I am sure that's how all the other guys do it...

Hey, I know that our friend in the video sure does it for me....especially when he worked up a sweat towards the end....when he found "his rhythm".... to be serious, it's great that he is doing something unique....but it's really not safe....also the amount of money saved over jacketed projectiles is nil...it's totally cool, but futile and pointless (unless he enjoys it, then more power to him).....did you look at his other pictures? there is one that really disturbs me....he has a skinned elk or deer up and is showing the destruction of the projectile....and the caption is "hamberger" (yes that is hamburger but spelled incorrectly).....I think that bothers me a little bit....that and the use of "sniper" in the name.....but he has some pretty darn cool guns on the last photobucket page....I wish the cx4 was still legal here in cali....they have one at my range, and it is one sweet gun....wish I could own one.... either way more power to the guy....not knocking him (well maybe a bit)....

Congratulations....I wish you 2 the best!!!

I calculated that my total investment for loading MATCH grade 45 acp (far better than anything I could buy) would be recouped after 6550 rounds...I can produce a quality of ammuntition, that I simply could not get anywhere else for about .15 each projectile: 0.09 (0.03 if I cast my own) primer: 0.025 (let's hope they stay there or go back down, not likely) powder : 0.00875 (less than a cent for practice, about a cent for major PF) brass : free (unless it's for match/home defense, then 0.13 seems fair) equipment to load and cast : $2500-$3000 here is the thing though....it's not even fair to compare handloads to factory....everyone here knows that their ammo trumps any other ammo they can get...we each build ammo specific to our gun and or needs.... If you factor in the time spent to learn/research and actually develop and build...well how much is your time worth?? If you make good money on an hourly basis....you will save NOTHING...NOTHING!!!!!! now let's look at how much more we shoot when reloading....I think everyone here shoots as much as they can possibly afford to....so even if you were spending $200 a month on factory ammo, you would still be spending $200 a month on handloads (if that was your budget) the cost savings is NOTHING, I promise you absolutely NOTHING....and of course you assume the liability of making an inherently dangerous product...no matter how safe you are...sooner or later you will get a squib or double charge or blow out a tube of primers...so factor in the damage to your gun and damage to your workspace and gear...and the possibility of injury.... seriously, you can't even compare the 2....if someone was to ask me "how much will I save"....and it was my business to know and sell them on reloading....I would generate a pamphlet (online) that they could calculate their own cost basis with...that way you could just refer them to that and they can do the math themselves....also post a disclaimer about the risks and the possible pitfalls....it will weed out the guys looking to save a buck (who are going to haggle with you and bug you over their short loading career), who are just going to quit doing it anyhow....the guys who are dead set on loading for accuracy and the ability to shoot what they want, already know that they are going to buy reloading gear at some point....and pay whatever it costs to do what they have in mind... MHO...

sometimes certain guns/barrels just don't like certain kinds of ammo....the very same ammo you are having issues with, might drive tacks in another gun....has to do with a lot of different variables...too many to trace and then fix the problem....best to try something else, until you find the good combination....for some reason my last SA barrel would not shoot SWC bullets at all...round nose 230gn were accurate as hell....I switched barrels and now SWC's are excellent, go figure...

you can draw your own wire out...the machine isn't that expensive....also corbin offers core mold...so you can cast a core and then work from there....it's still just too expensive....BUT, there is one cool thing...some folks (working for the DOD) are making projectiles out of ceramic powders....the hydraulic corbin press generates enough pressure to form the ceramic composite into a solid...as hard as lead...look-up "green bullet project"....I bet there is also mention of it on the Corbin website....I would love to have a press from them, but have you seen the prices??!!!! Also it would be easy to find scrap materials for jackets....I bet if you really did homework and some digging, you could produce swaged bullets for pennies, BUT there is still all the time involved...no way around that...each bullet requires minimum 2 steps, and minimum 2 dies...you "can" use some swage dies in standard presses...I bet you could modify a progressive to do the easy steps...but turning the bullet over for stage 2 or 3 would be the problem....you could generate enough force using Dillon's new 50BMG progressive...but at the end of the day....is it all worth it....I know I know....it's cool....and most of us here do things that are hardly a good return on time invested, but there is a line right??

Dear Brian, I just noticed this thread, and thought I would offer my condolences. It's never easy to lose the things that you hold dear. I have been through the same, and it does get better. I try to remember only the good times with those I have lost. My father still visits me in my dreams, so, in some ways no-one ever really leaves us. I hope you will have the good fortune, to remain in contact with your Mother Dear. Through dreams, thoughts, prayers and the memories that you hold. I wish you and your family the best, and offer my shoulder, if it's ever needed. Ari M.