Bill Schwab
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Posts posted by Bill Schwab
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SRVV Jet Brake
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Yes, it does still lock back.
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I don't know Glock's, so I can't intelligently answer your question, but yes, most of the time my 21 rnd M&P mag is reloadable.
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Yes, making Major with room to spare. Out of a 5" M&P Pro.
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I'm using 4.1 grains to push a 200 gr lead S&S bullet to major.
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Liking what I see too, this thing seems light-years ahead of the Leupold Mark AR I ran previously. I hope it holds up to the abuse of 3-gun.
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The AR15.com thread had PA chiming on, and providing specifics on when the scopes were going to be listed as In Stock.
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I fired 140 rounds today without a single issue, so I'm calling it good. My only concern is that I've found the S&W mag springs weaken quickly, so I'll have to keep an eye on that.
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I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn Express, but I did watch Jesse T's Stoeger vids. Other than final polishing, I only used hand files. I slowly worked on this for 40-60 minutes a day for three consecutive days. The gun is soooo much easier to load.
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Yup, once I test fire it I'll post pics of the modified follower (as long as it works).
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Using an aggressively trimmed follower, brand new unmodified stock mag spring, and Taran basepad I did it, 21 rnds in a 40 cal M&P mag. I haven't shot it yet, but I loaded/unloaded it a number of times and it felt & cycled just like an unmodified follower. I'll give it a try this coming weekend. The loaded mag can be seated with slide forward, but it's tough...I wouldn't use it for a reload.
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Where should I go from here? The blue tape is about half a millimeter below the serial number. Any suggestions to get the desired shape?
Very nice first cut, I see files in the background, is that how you did it? If so, how long did it take? I'm planning on doing this to my Stoeger this weekend, so any last minute words of advice? Also, a buddy of mine did his, and he scalloped the front portion of the plastic trigger guard which I think was a very nice mod.
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Has anyone put a lot of rounds on their Gen 2 yet? I'm looking for durability data on this scope.
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Riiiight... How the heck am I supposed to measure that?!
Go to the range with dots of various sizes, i.e. 2, 4, 6, 8 MOA and set then up at 100 yards and see how big the dot in the scope looks compared to the dot targets...which dot size is it closest to.
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Ok, well I'm going to give it a try this summer. I've seen some thin followers in STI/SVI mags, so I'll go that thin with the M&P and see what happens.
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I shoot an M&P 40 Pro in Limited and was wondering if anyone has modified a 40 mag to fit 21 rnds? If so, what basepad, spring and follower did you use? I'm using Taran's basepads and all my mags are a reloadable 20 rnds, and all I did was trim the followers. I'm considering a more aggressive trim on the followers to try to fit 21. Any advice is appreciated.
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For my winter build I went with a Nordic barrel and couldn't be happier, I feel like it was a great value for the money. Shoots 55 gr like nobody's business.
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Thanks everyone, I will check the shellplate, install a 7# striker spring to buy some time, and hang tight until I have a backordered striker in hand. I'm waiting on the backordered striker because I fear sending the gun somewhere and them either A) modifying my existing striker and making the situation worse and then I'm really screwed or
them saying they need a striker and they're out of stock. -
You can see the wear on the tip of the striker block leg. It is doing exactly like I described. You need to change the timing of when the striker block gets pushed up by changing the angle of the sear loop on the trigger bar. You can also cut the height of the striker block leg so the striker block clears the leg with less upward travel.
If you don't understand how to fix the timing issue then take it to a gunsmith who does. You don't want to screw it up and disable the striker block safety by accident.
I really appreciate the advice. I know how to work on 1911's, but not striker guns, so I feel outside of my comfort zone.
Can anyone recommend a place that will turn this work around quickly? And could I just send the striker?
try taking the striker block plunger out completely and see if you are still getting light strikes......if it works fine without stiker block plunger then you have another method of confirmed what cha lee is saying.
My rear sight is SUPER tight in place, so I'd prefer to just send the slide to a 'smith for the issue to be troubleshot and adjusted. Can anyone recommend a 'smith?
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You can see the wear on the tip of the striker block leg. It is doing exactly like I described. You need to change the timing of when the striker block gets pushed up by changing the angle of the sear loop on the trigger bar. You can also cut the height of the striker block leg so the striker block clears the leg with less upward travel.
If you don't understand how to fix the timing issue then take it to a gunsmith who does. You don't want to screw it up and disable the striker block safety by accident.
I really appreciate the advice. I know how to work on 1911's, but not striker guns, so I feel outside of my comfort zone.
Can anyone recommend a place that will turn this work around quickly? And could I just send the striker?
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The second picture shows the striker block leg but it is not detailed enough. Can you take a closer picture of that portion of the striker? From what I can see in the existing picture that striker block leg does look worn on the leading edge.
How's this:
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Another possible failure could be that the tip of the strikers firing pin is rubbing against the side of the firing pin hole in the breach face of the slide. You can easily check this by installing the striker, manually push down the striker block and push the striker forward so the tip of it passed through the breach face. There should be ZERO friction felt as you push the striker forward as the tip passes through the hole in the breach face. If there is friction, then you may have a bad striker channel sleeve or the striker tip its self is bad.
I did this and it's smooth as butter...nice firing pin protusion too. Here's pics:
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Take the striker out and look at the Striker Block leg to see if it is worn by hitting the striker block as it comes forward.
The striker block leg does not appear to be worn.
them saying they need a striker and they're out of stock.
Billet upper and lower pair
in Rifle - Technical
Posted
Good choices. I will add Mega Arms to that list.