Bill Schwab
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Posts posted by Bill Schwab
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I have 12, all new in box, on Gunbroker, but they're up to $72 with 2 days left, so I can understand the reluctance.
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Only have 100 rounds through mine so far, but has been reliable and the trigger has smoothed out considerably (used lots of Chip McCormick trigger grease), but dang that trigger is HEAVY! My trigger pull gauge only goes to 10#, and this pull is beyond that. Neat gun, that swings incredibly fast on close-in targets, but more of a fun gun than a competition gun.
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If you're not so mechnically inclined: I listed 12 new in box 9mm M&P mags on GB, my username is schwabw. I also listed 10 40 M&P mags.
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I can't afford a truckload of ammo, so I dry fire a lot, typically a very focused 1/2 hour a day. I recently transitioned from 1911's to an M&P and am enjoying the M&P, but I found out the hard way that I cannot dry fire it like a 1911, see this thread: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=174713 So in an effort to work with this gun I'm trying to figure out the best (safest) way to dry fire. I'll probably end up getting snap caps, but am curious what you guys do. I heard of the cardboard trick with Glocks, but wasn't sure if this also worked for M&P's. I also spoke with Dan Burwell and he pulls the trigger only to just before the break point, so he actaally doesn't dry fire the gun. So what do you do?
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Ok, so I've tried two different strikers, one black and one silver and neither worked. My striker appears to be a different configuration. Here's a pic of mine:
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Bill do you need one right now? I am pretty sure I have an extra laying around until you get yours from S&W.
Wow, I really appreciate the offer to help. I think I am borrowing one locally, so I should be good, and someone else here on the board offerred to leave one at the VA/MD Section match for me to borrow. I tell ya, nothing but good people in this community.
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Not to preach but if you shoot competitively you really should have a spare parts kit in your bag.
<hanging head in shame> Yeah, I know. I just switched from 1911's to M&P's recently and dropped the ball on getting spare parts. Lesson learned the hard way.
Went through the logbook last night, and for the record the gun has 2300 rounds through it.
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Shooting major and using a 14 lb recoil spring. Perfect circle hit on the primers, but kinda light. Still has all factory springs (except for recoil spring).
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How many stages?
Typically 5-6. Good states too.
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The tip broke off the front.
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Out of curiousity - were you using snap caps?
Nope.
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It's silver. S&W is shipping me a new one, but they didn't have one in stock.
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I recently started shooting a 40 Pro in Limited. I have to check the logbooks, but I have about 2k rounds through the gun. My striker broke already (of course right before the VA/MD Section match). I feel as though this is premature, in spite of dry firing 1/2 hour a day. Should I use the Glock cardboard trick for dry firing? Or is it more likely I had a defective striker?
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Vetts1911 runs a good match!
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It looks close, not sure if it is the same as the make the entire magazine themselves.
Thanks. I ended up calling them to verify and they said their mags will take Ruger springs, or you can order springs straight from them.
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I'm using all majestic arms mags for a MK III, a MK III that I built with a TACSOL bbl and a Volquartsen bottom end with a MK II Bolt and main spring, Also in a MK III 22/45. I will never go back to ruger mags. Selling all of mine. The ruger mags are fine for plinking but if you want the gun to run consistently in rapid fire you need better mags.
Look at the button on the side of a Ruger mag. It rubs against the metal case of the mag and this is what causes all of the problems.
Thanks for the insight. Does the majestic mag use standard Ruger mag springs?
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Anyone using them, if so do you like them?
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Got one and am lovin' it.
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I just logged on to the forums to post this myself. Heck of a deal. I ordered a bunch the last time they had this deal, and (given the current political climate) just ordered more. Cheapest price anywhere.
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I'm sending my gun to Dan Burwell for a trigger job and he offers a service for light strikes, here's what he said: "I lighten the striker and set-back the shoulder allowing it to protrude through the breach face further." I'm having that done, and I'll report back afterwards and tell you if the gun ignites Win Small Rifle primers.
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I now run extra power striker springs in all of my M&P and have had 0 light strikes since. With the Apex sear, I don't notice the extra power striker spring.
Thanks Mike, very helpful. I'll place an order with SSS.
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But what's the point of using rifle primers in a pistol in the first place?
WSR primers run smoothly through my 1050, and I only have to stock one size of primer for pistol and 223 rifle. I've used them in 40 for about 10 years, and this is the first problem I've had.
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My 1050 and 1911's seem to like Winchester Small Rifle primers, so over the past 12 or so years all 40 & 38 SuperComp ammo has used WSR primers. I just bought a new 40 Pro and like it a lot, but of the 200 rounds through it 3 of the WSR's did not ignite the first time (they had a firing pin dent on their primer). I ran those 3 through the gun again and they ignited the second time. Is this typical of striker fired guns?
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Fantastic
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