Bill Schwab
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Posts posted by Bill Schwab
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5 hours ago, Joe4d said:
Whats the trigger reset like on these on follow up shots,, say compared to a typical 1911 ? How far forward do you have to move the trigger to reset.. When I was into pins I looked for the 45 hunter,, but at the time couldnt find one..
Trigger reset is a little more than a 1911, but I didn't notice it while running the gun for speed. I shot my friend's 10mm LimPro side by side against my custom 10mm 1911 with tungsten guide rod, and the Tanfo was much softer shooting making follow up shots quite a bit faster.
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I’m a 10mm fan, own a few to include a Tanfo Witness Hunter, which overall has been an impressive pistol, but let’s face it, it’s a whale. Friend had his older (pre-2016) 10mm Limited Pro over and I fell in love with the size, weight, handling and DA trigger reach, and am considering picking a new one up. But the slide/frame fit was rather disappointing, and some of the frame checkering was insanely sharp.
So my question is, are current Tanfos built better, or worse? I guess I just want to manage my expectations. Appreciate any insight.
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I believe these are discontinued, but just came back in stock at CZ Custom. Mine has already shipped. Thought others here might want one.
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This is news to me. What I normally do is submit the form to request an addition to the roster, and they inevitably review and add it. I've even bought pistols that were not on the approved list, and had them sit at my FFL until months later it was approved.
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Highly recommend Davis leather. He has a lot more than what's on his website. He took over the business from the late Gordon Davis who built top of the line leather holsters for practical shooting back in the 70's and 80's. I have a 5" N-frame Davis holster (not for sale) that is right up your alley, PM me if you want pics.
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4 hours ago, slavex said:
I'd love to know what crank arm they sent you. The RL1050 has an offset roller bearing setup, like the new 1100 has, not a crank arm like the Super has.
After much back & forth with the Dillon rep they figured out I have a very early Super 1050, called a "Super 1050 A" on the part bag I received. The crank arm is different than the Super 1050 we all know & love, and my part # is 11001. Hope this helps.
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I'm an idiot...in my haste to get the machine back up & running I did not recognize the new crank arm was 1/2" shorter than the old one. It was packaged as the correct Super 1050 part (part # 11062), however it appears I was sent a 1100 or RL1050 crank arm. Whatever the case Dillon was great to deal with and they're fixing the situation.
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1 minute ago, AHI said:
either you have the wrong crank arm . Or. Something is wrong with the crankshaft( #11061 ) /journal key(#13475).
Leaning toward a Journal key problem.
compare your new parts to your old parts. Especially the keyway placement.
Old part was cracked badly, in a few places, so hard to do a good comparison with it, but I did compare and they looked the same. Will compare keyway placement, I did not do that, thanks.
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2 hours ago, Boomstick303 said:
I have yet had the need to take the knuckle apart on my Super 1050, but if I had to venture a guess the mechanic in me would think the part circled (I assume is the part you replaced in the crank arm) is in backwards 180 degrees.
Nothing a quick call to Dillon Service will not fix. If you could let us know what it was for the rest of us Super 1050 owners that would be awesome.
Also what reference did you use when replacing the crank arm? Instructions of some sort?
I thought the same but mechanically I don’t see how any part can go back 180 degrees different.
I referenced threads here. Disassembly was ultra easy.
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56 minutes ago, AHI said:
on the back of the base is a stop block is it hitting the crank arm?
When fully down.
Yes, it’s hitting that new crank arm.
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28 minutes ago, tmz said:
Maybe a dumb question but are you 100% sure you got the toolhead secured all the way down to the ram ?
Not a dumb question. Yes it is torqued down nice and snuggly.
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15 minutes ago, AHI said:
When you orded the part. Did you say 1050 or super 1050?
Super 1050
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After 20+ years of service I broke the crank arm (part #11062) on my Super 1050. Disassembly was a breeze. New part came in from Dillon and I verified the part #, and compared it to my broken crank arm, looked good. Reassembly was also a breeze and I installed all new roller bearings while at it. After reassembly the handle travel instantly felt less, almost like I was running an original 1050 and not the longer stroke Super 1050. Toolhead travel after reassembly does not go all the way down, I mean, the crank arm bottoms out on that bumper thing on the back bottom of the press, but the toolhead travel itself is not far enough down to have enough die adjustment, and also not enough for the next empty shell to be fed into the casefeed plunger. Operation up & down after reassembly was nice and smooth with no binding or anything feeling unusual.
My initial thought was that I need to flip the crank arm around, I must have installed it incorrectly. So I disassembled and looked and it appears to only be able to be installed one way, because there's a tab on the crank arm that fits into a slot on the frame.
So I'm stumped. Any advice?
This is a pic with the handle all the way down, so max downward toolhead travel.
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Don't know if it'll fit the CR pouches, but I use the NexBelt for IDPA and CCW and it is amazing.
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Hoping someone can do an M&P Apex versus Timney side by side comparison. Timney's JM YouTube video indicated 3# with the trigger likely to drop into the 2's!
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6 hours ago, Bakerjd said:
Man to be honest I dont know of anyone doing full trigger guard shaping anymore. With the advent of 1911 frames being made with square trigger guards by a few high quality companies, SVI and JEM, I'm betting it's a thing of the old days.
Actually cone to think about it Jason Burton at Heirloom Precision does them. I'm not sure what his wait times are these days as I'm not on facebook any longer but I know he only builds full custom guns and doesnt work on customer supplied guns these days.
Thanks. I'll try Jason.
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About 17 years ago at the SingeStack Nats I shot a little with TGO and was dumbfounded at how comfortable his Arnt Myhre triggerguard was. The triggerguard was square, with the bottom wide and flat. Rob said the Springfield Custom shop could do one for me. Fast forward almost two decades and I want that triggerguard config, but Springfield Custom does not seem to be doing that sort of work anymore. Does anyone know a 'smith that does that? My Google Kung-Fu turned up nothing.
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No moonclips for this build, maybe the next one though.
Round & polish trigger completely escaped me, thanks!
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I just bought a new S&W 629 Classic 5”. I plan to use this beauty for local bowling pin matches, and carrying in the woods while hiking. Most of my shooting will be DA, and predominantly 44 Specials. I’m shipping it to Mark at Pinnacle High Performance for his premium action job, and a DX front sight setup. I’ll be installing a Bowen Rough Country rear, and I already ordered custom wood grips fit to my hand. I have a suitable holster. This sweetheart will, I suspect, be my favorite wheelgun.
Is there anything else you guys recommend I get done while it’s with Mark?
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1 minute ago, missed it by that much said:
I have the Herret checkered grips which are affordable and custom made. They have several options. You trace your hand and send it with your order info. I have them on three of my revolvers.
Love them, but I cannot reach Herrett's...I've tried email and phone.
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I have a few Magnum S&W’s I want to upgrade. It’ll be 90+% two-handed shooting, and I’ll probably shoot some bowling pin matches. Must work with speedloaders. Looking for something that fits my hands better, looks better, and perhaps most importantly helps distribute the recoil. Currently using Hogue rubber monogrips, and find the palm swell to be too small, and the finger grooves too pronounced. I have medium/large sized hands and need an open back so I can comfortably reach the trigger for DA shooting. Herrett’s email isn’t working, and Ahrends is no longer accepting new orders. Altamont grip fit seems to be sketchy. JM grips were too small, and years ago I tried Jordan’s and didn’t get a warm & fuzzy. I want quality, so I am willing to pay for a set of Nill grips. Any suggestions?
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LOVE the look of that!
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Raising this thread from the dead.
Had this exact issue today shooting P10F in CO. RN 125 Blue Bullets. But for me it only occurs when I load up to 22 rounds in a mag. If I stick with 20 or less rounds I have no problem. Feed ramp has already been polished. Ammo OAL is 1.095"; pistol fails spin test at 1.115".
Firing pin block, CZ 75 SP-01 Competition, or?
in CZ
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You can tell if they have a FP block because you can see the pin in the rear cocking serrations, so it's an easy visual way to tell. And yes, that does seem to be the highest model with the FP block. Any of the Shadow variants do not have the FP block.