Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

lockmup68

Classified
  • Posts

    88
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by lockmup68

  1. Thanks. I did just that. #3 locator, check; #5 shellplate, no debris in the cutouts. Readjusted white tab with a piece of paper; confirmed small primer tray (hadn't changed trays since loading about 10k of 40, but double checked anyway; emptied primer tube and made sure tray pocket was lined up; replaced blue tip on primer tube with spare, small primer size check. With no brass in handle cycles smoothly, Same thing, about 3 out of every ten smashed, 2 missing/spitting out bottom. So backed up even further, got my cut case out and reset swager. to be exactly like picture in manual. Ran a few through and started thinking maybe not enough swage, so ran it all the way up til it is just a hair from touching bottom of case. Top is pushing down flat with top of primer pocket like it should. I do not have any commercial brass to try, I have about 200 lbs of WCC 10 and 4 brass, and this is what the 1050 is made for, so have to get it working. Here's a pic of a couple of smashed primers. I'm starting to think it might be the swage, but it is swaging as it should, so not sure. Here's a couple of pics of the smashed primers. http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/lockmup68/library/Dillion%201050
  2. OK, so after walking away from it after many weeks, turning into a few months of playing with it one or two hours at a time, then some unplanned surgery downtime, traveling like a maddog for work overseas, etc., here we are six months later and still haven't solved the problem. In last few days, I've loaded about 300 rounds, but missing/spitting/smashing more primers than ever. I've completely disassembled everything twice, it is very clean; repolished the primer slide and the channel it resides in, readjusted swager, primer depth, reshimmed, reshimmed, and reshimmed, the primer slide to be aligned properly, white tab tight, slightly off, way off, all the way off; I'm really at a loss. I don't consider myself an expert reloader, but I have put about 32,000 rounds of 40 and 45 through this machine and I think I understand how to adjust to get things working properly. But 9mm is kicking my butt. All of my brass is mil range brass WCC 10 or WCC 4. Both come through without primers or smashed primers. This is seriously frustrating the crap out of me. I just want to knock out some 9mm and go shooting. Any ideas? Maybe I can load 40 or 45 for someone and you can do 9mm for me? Thanks, Shannon
  3. They told me factory box ammo, like WWB. My Dawson CRP spartan was the dirtiest new gun I have ever seen.
  4. Seems to have helped with primers going in smoothly. Now getting smashed primers again. Was working so smooth on the 40 and I didn't change anything, so not sure why the 9mm is suddenly smashing them again.
  5. Finally got my replacement small primer swager after almost four weeks.
  6. Take a bit of practice, but generally work well. Got one for Christmas a couple years back. Main thing is don't forget it. I typically get to the range, after first stage, dang, forgot that nut wizard.
  7. Drillspot is the ticket. +1 on the new finish and I also spray some mineral spirits in thee every other batch or so.
  8. a buddy of mine got that bench from Sam's Club, put casters on it and rolls it around. When loading, he clamps it to his table mounted to the wall. Plenty sturdy. He also wanted more mass for the top, so he used leftover hardwood flooring and added 3/4" to the top. Similar to what OBXWIND on youtube did to his bench. HTH,
  9. VP came in and was having an issue on the first couple of boxes. Notices that there was some residue plastic from the mold in the plastic part on top of the filler tube (part that screws into the bottom of the VP. Used some 600 grit sand paper to smooth is all out, did the same for the tray around the primer holes and everything works peachy now. Still not an RF, but for $50, way better than pecking with the tubes. That is seriously my least favorite part of loading and I dread it. Even pay my girls to load tubes I hate it so bad. But could not force myself to spend that much on the RF plus conversion. I probably will someday, but the VP is a good stepping stone and light years ahead of pecking with tubes.
  10. Lube the main shaft with motor oil where exactly? The bearings on the outside use grease. Are you talking about the middle if the main shaft that drives the head up/down? Any specific weight of motor oil? Thanks,
  11. Speaking of LEDs, most of the kits mount to the frame of a 650 for example, as it doesn't move. Where do you guys mount them on a 1050? I have a few adjustable arm led book lights, but would like to get an AC solution versus all the batteries. Since the tool head moves down, the LED strips don't look like they will work.
  12. I loosened the tab a tad and the new swager finally got here. I think 4 weeks since I ordered it. Going to replace and run some this weekend to see if it helps. Thanks.
  13. Did you grease the bearings holding the main shaft? The zero fitting is only on the swage arm bearing. The main bearings need a needle shaft on your grease gun and have to be taken off.
  14. White tab is hard up against the brass. I really think it is the broken part of the swager. Will know when replacement gets here. Hope it is there when I get home from this trip.
  15. For "thousands of rounds" go 1050 and be done with it. Warranty is good and you'll be happy.
  16. Thanks. Yes the very top of the part that goes into the pocket a piece chipped off or something. For example if you look at it head on from the top, it is not round. It is a circle with a 35 degree piece missing. I think that is the part catching the primers.
  17. Just makes the brass shiny (like waxing a car) and I believe it grabs some of the dust too. With the new corncob, just put in a couple of cap fulls of nufinish (or Flitz) and tumble the media with no brass for 20 min or so to get it all mixed in good and dry. Then add brass and dryer sheet and good to go. A capful of odorless mineral spirits every few batches revitalized the media as well. I have it in a spray bottle and just put a few sprays in and let it tumble for 10-15 min to dry out and then add the brass. I readd one capful of nufinish every few batches (like 8-10) or whenever I notice the brass isn't as shiny as I like. HTH,
×
×
  • Create New...