schoonie

When I was using vv N320 in my 45 and 40 I would get some large velocity deviations, up to 75 fps. I attributed this to the large case volume and small powder charge. I've since changed to Titegroup and the deviations have dropped to about 10 to 15 fps. Also, I perceive that the powder produces more of a snappy or sharp recoil as compared to more of a push recoil from the Vit.

The one complaint I have about plated bullets is that they are very soft (Raniers). The SWC type would get hung up at the transition between frame and barrel (I do not have a ramped barrel). With vv N320 and a plated bullet you should not have any problem with smoke. However, due to the softness issue, I switched to Precision bullets and have shot 10,000 through my 45 with no problems at all.

I'm confused!!! I agree with the light recoil spring recommendation, to me it feels as if the sights get on target quicker and the gun cycles faster. However, I shoot a Colt Goldcup 45 (200 gr Precision RN, 4.9 gr's titegroup powder, 167 to 170 powerfactor) and the lightest spring I can run is around an 18 lb variable. This combination still launches the brass about 15 to 20 feet from the gun. I've can't use shock buffs because they only last about 200 rounds since the inside of the dust cover has been chamfered which results in a very thin (knife edge like) cross section that contacts the buff and cuts right through it. Due to the high maintenance involved I won't use them. Using a lighter recoil spring results in an indentation from the dust cover knife edge in the guide rod base (spring side). I presume this to be a bad thing, i.e frame battering??? Am I overreacting? I don't see any damage behind the guide rod base. I know of one shooter with a 45 using a 12lb spring and two shock buffs. His gun does not cut up the buffs and it doesn't throw his brass a country mile away! The only thing I can come up with to explain the difference is the possibility that my slide and his are not the same weight. Suggestions?

Sounds like the trigger was not released enough to reset itself, like a short stroke with a revolver.

A newly installed fiber will sometimes loosen up after about 100 rounds or so (could be caused by the burr that was mentioned). You will have to re-melt one end taking out the slack. Any movement of the fiber during shooting causes it to shear off one of the ends. I've gotten at least a thousand plus rounds before having to replace a fiber and I'm using a the unsupported style Caspian sight that exposes the fiber to more light but makes it more prone to damage. I do not like to use glue since it's a pain to remove when I have to install a new fiber. Hope this helps.

2Alpha, Thanks for the advice. What brand of snap caps work? I tried the fancy spring loaded ones from Brownell's but they would not fit into the cylinder. Should I not use a moon clip to hold them? How about using dummy rounds with spent primers? The rounds I use are painted white to distinguish them from live rounds which are not even in the same room when I dry fire!

You have got to check out the Universal Extreme from Frank Garcia(Universal Shooting Academy or Shooter's Connection), they became available only this year. I've got one for my 625 and it's the best I've seen for a fast and secure competition holster. Similiar to a ghost but no drilling required.

Hey Vince, Great thread, very helpful and informative. Please offer more of the same.

Wow! this is some heavy duty stuff. I perscribe to the K.I.S.S. (keep it simple stupid!) philosphy when learning something new. When I first started out I found that by telling myself that the results of my shooting where not important, the fate of the free world was not hanging in the balance, I will not be beaten, tortured and hung up in the town square, and it's just not that big of a deal. That perspective had calming effect on me and I could then just shoot little holes in paper targets and have fun! After some time passed and my skills developed (a little) and my experiences increased, the nervousness became more easily controlled by a few deep breaths prior to stepping to the line coupled with a little concentration or thought on what I was about to do. Kind of quieting the mind, getting tranquil, relaxing, etc. Just don't forget why we do what we do....... to have fun!

If the steel was properly calibrated a "good" hit would make it fall, whereas a low or grazzing shot would or may not. Seems to me that it's similar to the difference between an A hit and a D hit. Therefore, having a popper in Virginia count is no different than a partially obsured target showing only the A zone. The only downside I see would be the bitching about calibration when a bad hit didn't drop the steel.

I installed the c & s extended firing pin in my 625 after I installed Jerry's main and rebound springs. It seems to have cured the soft strikes I was getting on CCI primers.