JGH4445

Thanks for the link and suggestion GMan. That looks promising.

Thanks freak. I'll look in to a mold for 180 and 200 gr cast...

Thanks for the tip on the lock washer.

Freakshow10mm, I have WSF and a 10mm. Didn't know they went together. Been looking for something to use the WSF in. Do you shoot cast bullets? How about a 200 gr bullet? What kind of performance are you getting from the 6 gr load with the 180s?

Thanks surgdog! That will work. I have the light set up from inline and couldn't be more satisfied. Actually had two LEDs go out and Dan replaced immediately, no questions asked. Was gonna look at ordering the primer warning system and a splitter for the lights. Don't know how I missed seeing the bullet trays. As you said, great company! Thanks.

Recently I saw a You Tube video from the Ultimate Reloader. On the video, the guy had a bracket made that held an Akro bin, used for holding bullets, attached to his LNL. I went to the Ultimate Reloader web site and found the product. It has been discontinued. Does anyone know of a similar product?

Nice K-22. Mine is a 1953 model also. It taught me how to fire double action. Its awesome on plates.

Sure will Andrew. Sent a PM.

Thanks guys. DWFAN, yes that it the part I was referencing. I like the idea of using this plus the powderfunnel.com part so I can use the powder cop die.

Didn't want to hijack the LNL thread I originally asked this in, so, I'm starting a new thread. Is it true that I can buy the $25 powder measure dies for 38/357, 44, 45ACP and 45LC and just switch dies for each caliber without having to reset the powder measure each time? Can I buy one expander from powderfunnel.com that will fit all of these? Then I just switch out the expander each time I change calibers right? This is better than the PTX dies? What about 9mm, .223, 243, 25-06? Does powderfunnel.com make one for these calibers or do I have to buy the PTX from Hornady from these?

I've been casting and shooting lead for about 5 years now. In the summer, the lube can get a bit sticky but other than that, no problem. I shoot 45LC, 45ACP and 44mag/Spec. No leading and I don't mind the smoke although with 231 there isn't a lot. Bullseye in my ACP does produce some. I shoot straight WW at plates and use Lyman #2 ( or similar) to hunt with.

Lets see if I have this straight...I can spend 25 bucks each for 45 ACP, 45 Colt, 38, 357, and 44 mag powder measure dies. Buy one powderfunnel dot com expander and use for all? What about 9mm and .223, 25-06, .243? Do they have one that will fit those or do I have to buy the Hornady PTX?

Had the same experiences as Roadapple, but I went FULL circle. I had the LNL for about two years and actually got it up and running fine. I had the usual growing pains with it, but with a few calls to a great bunch of CS folks at Hornady ( the answering machine messages are worth the call) it finally came around and I was producing ammo with consistent long runs. A burp every now and then but usually related to keeping the primer area cleaned.I just kept reading and hearing about the blue machine being so much better. Didn't really know how it could get much better but then I thought, "Maybe I'm missing something". So, I went to see the Elephant. Finally broke down and sold the red, like Roadapple again, with all the bells and whistles. Lost a little money but I wanted that Dillon. Put some money with what I got for it and got a 550B RL from Brian ( Great Guy! Maybe if I'd gone ahead and bought the 650 it would have worked out differently) with all the tool heads caliber conversions, powder dies, funnels, uniquetec micrometer dial, etc. Got it assembled and began to load. Primer feed just wouldn't stay consistent. Flipped primers and upside down primers at every loading sessions. Countless calls to a great bunch of CS folks each time I had a loading session. I don't believe I ever had a run of over 60 rounds that something didn't stop working or jammed or whatever. Kept it for about two years. Got tired of all the stoppages all the time. 9 yes, a few were operator error, but not many) Kept missing my auto index and the long runs I had on my LNL. Sold the Dillon and re-bought the LNL. Got it set up last night. Now, I'm waiting until the package of shell plates and case feeder plates, bushings ,etc. gets here. Should be tomorrow. I noticed on the new LNL that it now has bosses for the case feeder tube, zerks for the press and a really neat EZ eject system. Still has that stupid little case bin..(C'mon Hornady this is a progressive unit..we need more case space!) One of Dillon's selling points is great CS. Boy..they do really have it BUT, so does Hornady. Never charged me for a part, always there to help. I'm happy now looking at the Red on my Bench. ( I also have green and orange on the bench too.) I hope this machine works for me. Its possible that its a lemon but that would be the case if I'd bought a new Dillon too. I echo all the others when they say that you should get your hands on as many as you can. See what fits you best. They are all good now-a-days.. Yep, Chevy vs. Ford, Versus Harley vs. Honda!

Adjusted the brass tipped sccrew and middle bolt about 6 times. Then the primer cup worked its waty to being too high to go into the housing and get a primer, then the primers started going in sideways, just a PITA loading session...it happens. One day though, I hope to run 100 rounds without a stoppage!

Wow, you guys are posting some speedy results. With my 550 I just finished loading 100 rounds of 45 Colt. The first 50 rounds went nicely, about 20 minutes I guess with the normal amount of stoppages. The last 50 took a bit longer. The primer feed stopped working, the plate didn't want to advance, the primers quit again, the powder drop was crushing cases, the plate won't advance again.Etc, etc, etc. Took about an hour to do the last 50. But they have great customer service! Kinda like sayin, "Other than that Mrs. Lincoln, how did you like the play?" Rant off. Gonna tear it apart and clean it....again.

Just got my LED light kit from In Line Fabrication. Mounted it in on my 550 in about 20 seconds, plugged it in and now have a great light source. I mounted it on the forward pillar of the frame so it wouldn't be across the plate shining in my eyes. Slightly bent it at the top and directed even more light into station 2. Neat, clean, out of the way and does what its supposed to do. Looks great on the press too. Got a second 6 inch strip for my Rock Chucker. Unplug the Dillon and plug in the RC....best of both worlds. ( They also have a "Y" connector so you can have both presses lit up at the same time if you'd like.)

Then it could also be the "shelf" on the press that the housing sits on. Perhaps its not perfectly flat.

Sarge, I asked a tech at Dillon about that very issue last week. My primer slide was sticking back then too. I noticed a couple of places where the shim was shiny from being rubbed by the primer bar. They are at the very front. The tech said it was not likely that the shiny places on the shim where it was being rubbed was causing a problem. I didn't agree and replaced the shim with a spare I had. Still having problems but now I don't think it is the shim. Bshooter, the new shim helped the problem I was having at the time.

Thanks guys. I did that. Funny, when I loosen the housing screw closest to me when I'm in front of the press, it seems like presure is released and the slide works fine. Tighten it up and its binding again. It works as long as the screw is just barely snugged. The other screw, the one further under the press and closer to the shell plate is tighter. Wonder how long the screws will stay at the current tension before they back out and I'm making primer adjustments again.

The primer cup on my slide is adjusted correctly as far as height. (Put it "cup down" on a table and pressed it down as far as it would possibly go and then tightened it. Operating rod bracket is positioned correctly. Spring isn't sprung. Shim is clean and all the way to the left. The problem is that when the cup goes into the housing, it seems to be catching on the side of the housing and this is what is not letting it back out. If you short stroke the handle and the cup does not go into the housing, it slides back and forth as it is supposed to. If you do a full handle stroke and then raise the handle, the cup catches on the side of the housing and won't go under the shell plate. A nudge from behind will get it to go about half way, then raise the handle and lower quickly ( Jiggle it) and the cup then goes under the plate. From what I can see with a flashlight, the cup makes it under the primer tube fine, depresses the white nylon primer stop with no problem and is not hanging up on that or the primer tube. Thought I had this thing running correcctly but I guess not. Right now I'm loading 200 .45 ACP for a shoot tomorrow. Hand primed the brass, pulled the decapper out of the sizing die and am running it like that. Shouldn't have to do this.

You don't have to be a "regular" to get expert help either. You guys are awesome..including you Brian.

Dillon certainly stands behind the product but the real amazing part is that the guys ( and gals ) they have as CS reps, actually know the machines inside and out. You tell 'em what its doing and they'll tell you why its doing it and how to stop it. These folks are good and I mean real good!

Just finished a very slow, leisurely run of 250 .45ACP's and not one glitch or stoppage. If I did'nt enjoy loading so much, I'd say it was plum boring. Allison Krauss in the background was awesome.

Update OK Got home and started adjusting. Made sure the primer cap was at correct height by putting it in a vise and tightening the screw. Now it goes into the housing and picks up a primer, almost, almost means the primer is in sideways. Adjust the tube and the primer falls in place. Great. Now I raise the handle and the plate comes down and the primer slide goes toward the plate but isn't lining up with the primer hole and isn't going far enough forward to get the cup under the hole even if it did line up. Remove the primer housing, clean under it really well, re assemble manually moving the primer bar into the correct position under the plate and tighten both screws underneath. Now it should work. Nope. The primer bar lacks a quarter of an inch going far enough forward to get the cup under the plate. Spring on the bottom of the primer bar looks fine, not sprung. Push the bar forward with my thumb, lower the plate onto the cup, looks good, raise the plate and the primer bar springs back at me about a quarter inch. Go figure. Gotta be pressure somewhere...can't find it. CALL DILLON!!! Get the tech on the line and we go thru everything step by step. Slide clean....check...spring not stretched....check.....black shim under the primer housing all the way to the left....check...primer operating rod moving forward when the handle is lowered....check.... rod goes back downas the handle is raised...check...making contact with both rollers....uhhhhh no, not at the bottom. Its only in contact with the bottom, large roller. Not touching the small roller on top. No sir, not with the handle in the up position. Is there tension on the rod? Yessir. Ok how far is the primer tube bracket above the frame of the press? About a half inch. Is the rod touching the frame? Yes. Puttin pressure on the rod at the bottom? Yes. Lower the bracket to about an 8th of an inch above the frame so the rod isn't touching the frame. OK..cycle it. Works great! Is the rod now in contact with both rollers? Yes. Good. Thats the way it is supposed to work. Anything else? Nosir...thanks so much! My pleasure. Another example of great CS from Dillon!!! Thanks to you guys here too!

Thanks. I'll be sure and check it. I've already removed the entire assembly and cleaned it. Used the green scotch brite, alcohol, wipe clean, spray graphite, wipe clean, dremel buffing wheel, wipe clean, etc. One of my problems is that the primer cup hits the side of the primer housing upon entering. It ( the primer cup) wants to lean to the right and hit the side of the housing. I think I got that fixed. The cup doesnt go into the housing far enough to depress the primer drop. The heigth of the cup looks about right. The plate comes down and the primer seater plug kinda bite on the side of the hole causing a "clicking" sound but then finds its way into the hole. There is just something about the alignment that I don't have right yet The set screw behind the housing is set far enough back that the primer bar isn't touching or stopping the cup from going in the housing any further. I'll be sure and let y'all know what the problem was/is when I get home tomorrow. Going to devote the whole weekend, if I have to, to get this beast up and running.