2MoreChains
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Posts posted by 2MoreChains
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We use 6" marking whiskers. You can get them in colors, with and without spikes. They last well over a year even with the silt in-fill and such at our range.
^This. We buy ours from MGM and refresh once a year. Each stage has its own color.
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Have you tried a different powder? Something along the lines of VV N320, Titegroup or Solo1000 with the same 180 gr bullet may give you a different recoil impulse. When people were comparing how your gun recoils to their 5", were they using your ammo or theirs?
My first custom 2011 I spec'd a 6" built on a Tactical frame for the extra non-reciprocating weight of the longer dust cover and rail. The only slide lightening I had done was a tri-topped slide and initially just had a narrow (.25" wide) coffin cut on the flat top of the slide. After shooting it for a bit I asked my GS to widen the coffin cut to the full width of the flat top (resulting in about .375"W) and extend it the length of the slide from the bbl lugs to the front sight. That seemed to feel pretty good after shooting it for a while so we stopped mucking around with it and that's where I am today. IMO it shoots pretty flat, or maybe that's because I am used to it. Mine weighs about 38 oz without a mag, so probably an ounce or two heavier than yours due to the longer DC/rail and less slide lightening cuts.
When I first got the gun I tested a range of springs from 10, 11, 12, 13 and 14 lbs and settled on a 12 which seemed to give me the best feel (and HF score when doing Bill Drills) at 7 yds). That's paired up to my load using a 180 gr moly bullet with 4.5 grs of VVN320. That load is about 176 PF out of my 6", but its the same load I use for my 5" guns to avoid having two different loads to confuse me with.
Ever since taking a Stoeger class a couple of years ago I've been trying to grip harder (i.e. crush it) and that has made a difference especially on the tougher / farther shots.
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Congratulations, fine choice! Now for mags, get these: http://www.shootersconnectionstore.com/Tripp-10mm-9-Round-Government-System-Corey-Magazine-wBasepad-P3335.aspx
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^cool, it's like a Capt Crunch Decoder Ring for the SP-01!
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Your stage was too muddy...Ranger6
(RO Stage 20)
The ENTIRE range was muddy for about 3 hrs on Saturday...
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Welcome Kyle!
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From what I understand, Prod Nationals is going to be the 2nd week of August in Quincy.
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Someday the Nationals should be held in the summer to get more juniors and families involved. Also, there are a few of us who only get time off in the summer.
Ha! My situation is the exact opposite. Fall/winters are my "off-season".
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Another FP-10 and slide glide std. or lite depending on temp
Me two-ski.
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Personally I liked that it was set up so Staff could shoot in the pre-match, or at least those that wanted to. I'm all about volunteering to work the match but being able to shoot it for score was a huge plus for me.
I liked the mix of stages, different challenges, mix of hoser and hard shots, and felt like the SUPS crew did a bang up job of putting on this years Nats.
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You may also need to fit a new thumb safety if you replace the sear.
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Once again thanks for the videos! Where is the 180 on stage 18?
I shot that stage today. When we asked the same question the CRO told us it was defined by the furthest most wall at the end of the stage. IIRC, it was the one with the banner on it.
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Don't worry about guys who will look down on you for shooting a $5K Open gun as a C class shooter either, those guys are assholes anyway
LOL!
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7 weeks and counting until mine shows up from CZC...
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Shoot as many CZs as you can get your hands on. Figure out which ones had certain modifications that you like. I recently had a chance to compare two SP-01 Shadows a friend of mine has before ordering one for myself. One had the pre-B disco installed by CZC, the other one same in all respects except for the short reset.
I found there to be quite a difference between the two. The one with the short reset shot better for me than the one without during some drills on the clock.
Not knowing very much about CZs, other than I want one, I ordered one from CZC that was exactly setup like my friend's.
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Now you have me. Please explain how you would work that magic as I can't imagine.If you're going to shoot Limited, you need to upgrade your caliber! Minor scoring in Limited doesn't work.
I believe this is opinion not fact and I disagree with it.
I've had my ass kicked at matches by guys shooting minor. Now they were very skilled and would have beat me even bigger shooting major, but to say it doesn't work is false.
It doesn't work when you are shooting against shooters of equal skill.
Actually, through stage design, I could make it so the minor shooter will always beat the major shooter of equal skill level. It works just fine at a well balanced match too.
Hoser stage. All targets close.
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If you're going to shoot Limited, you need to upgrade your caliber! Minor scoring in Limited doesn't work.
I believe this is opinion not fact and I disagree with it.
I've had my ass kicked at matches by guys shooting minor. Now they were very skilled and would have beat me even bigger shooting major, but to say it doesn't work is false.
It doesn't work when you are shooting against shooters of equal skill.
Actually, through stage design, I could make it so the minor shooter will always beat the major shooter of equal skill level. It works just fine at a well balanced match too.
Yep, easily done. Its called an all-steel stage!
A while back I decided for S&Gs I was going to shoot Limited minor at a local match. More or less same gun that I normally shoot Limited with, just in 9mm. It wasn't the most controlled experiment as there were too many variables and I may have been having a bad day but it didn't change my stage times very much and my HF's were down more than usual, which told me minor was not allowing me to shoot fast enough to offset my loss in points from minor PF scoring.
For the OP, the right time to get a new gun is when ever you get it into your brain that a new gun is needed/wanted. There's no need to justify it to the rest of us or even yourself. Buy what makes you happy, and maybe in doing so it motivates you to practice more.
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I would suggest case gauging your brass between Steps 2 and 3. The reason for doing that is not all your brass will need to be trimmed, plus why go thru the effort trimming a piece of brass that hasn't been resized properly?
For now what I do is prep all my brass as a completely different step and store the prepped brass for when I am ready to load it. I do all the brass prep on a single stage, then do all the loading on the 550. Though I don't see why you couldn't do the brass prep on the 550 if you had a second tool head.
What I do for brass prep is tumble to clean then resize/de-prime on the single stage. I use Dillon spray FWIW. After resizing I hand check each piece of brass in a case gauge. I'm checking for two things: first that the case rim fits flush or just slightly below the top of the gauge. This tells me that it was correctly resized (i.e. headspace). I'm also checking for length. Brass that fails the gauge on the case rim side gets run back thru the sizing die or tossed. Brass that is too long in the neck gets tossed in the bin for trimming.
After that I sort all my brass for those that need to have the primer pockets swaged. Those that have the mil-crimp get swaged, then join the rest of the prepped brass in a box.
Seems like a lot to go thru, doesn't it?
Then when I go to load I have the 550 set up with Station 1 empty since its not needed anymore. I prime, powder, seat, and crimp like normal. Just one thing, on the down stroke, count to 2 or 3 because it takes longer for 25-ish grains of powder to drop than 4-5 grs for pistol! Sometimes I toss my loaded ammo in the tumbler to clean off the lube, other times I clean it by rolling them around on a towel, and sometimes I just get lazy and box up the loaded rounds as is.
I used to tumble the brass after prepping, but as was pointed out by somebody on a forum you could get media lodged in the flash hole and not know it, then load on top of it. Seemed to make sense, so now if I tumble its at the very end. Yeah, I've heard some saying that could light off a round... YMMV. But I only tumble for 10 mins or so.
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What I have found is if you look at the target from an angle the perf lines are easier to see.
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Yep, that's usually the best advice!
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Thanks K-Atlas, that helps.
I like shooting both 147's and 124's in my 9mm pistols (Glock and 2011). I don't have any real allegiance to either, though if knock down steel is heavily represented in the match I'll go with 147's, especially in 3gun when there are MGM spinners... In Steel Challenge I go with the 124 gr load.
Not helpful, I know.
I suppose if I was looking for a CCW gun the non-rail Shadow might be more appealing for IWB carry, but seeing as I'll be running this in a DOH holster in gun games... maybe that extra ounce and a half out front will help tame the mighty recoil of 132 PF 9mm!
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Thanks all for the input. Had a chance today to shoot a friend's SP-01 Shadow-T with short reset trigger and compare it alongside with his SP-01 Shadow-T that doesn't have the SRT. I think everything else between the two guns was the same other than front sight width.
I ran a few drills with the two guns and both were pretty awesome to shoot and I was getting good hits at 20-30 yds, even in DA mode on the first shot. I think the springs were 13# mainspring, or at least they were igniting my CCI primers with no issues. The short rest trigger is pretty cool. Just seeing how much the trigger with the SRT doesn't move forward is pretty amazing compared to the SP-01 without it.
So ultimately my original question comes down to the FLDC of the SP-01 or the SDC of the CZ-75 (BTW, do I have the terminology correct? Both are CZ-75's, right? But the FLDC model is the SP-01 and the SDC model is just the CZ-75...?). I don't have access to a 91716 to compare, but based on how I shot some drills today that had pretty big transitions (>90 deg) I didn't feel any downside to the extra nose weight of the SP-01.
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For reference, AT:
550 Priming Assembly Adjustment Notes:
- Thoroughly polish frame, wherever priming slide touches it, with green Scotch Brite. (Approx. every 3000 rounds)
- Wipe off Primer Slide with solvent or alcohol. Leave it all dry.
- At rest primer slide adjustment: Set so that one primer, dropped down the tube, goes all the way into the Primer Seating Cup, 10 times in a row.
- Angle of Primer Slide Operating Rod (13869) - Release rod from rollers and swivel it 180º so it's pointing straight up - it should be parallel with the Primer Housing Shield, or maybe outward "a little"; it should not be "inward" at all.
- Be sure both screws (14530) that tighten Roller Bracket Shell Platform (14280) from bottom (to the Shellplate Platform) are tight!
- Make sure Priming Seating Punch Assembly is fully bottomed out before tightening screw (13996): Measured from bottom of Primer Slide (13920) to top of seated Primer Seating Cup (13284/5), dimension should be between 1.125 - 1.220 inches.
- Be sure Priming Operating Rod Bracket (13887) is adjusted so it's within a few thousands of an inch from the top of frame/Toplhead.
- Be sure the plastic tips of all your Primer Pickup Tubes and the plastic tip on the bottom of the Priming Magazine are seated fully against the tubes.
- Grease the short end of the op-rod where it inserts into the bracket clamped around the primer shield.
- Check to make sure the nipple on the end of the primer tube is not buggered up.
Fixed!
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Sorry for the delay, just got back reloading today. The plastic nipple was buggered up.Thanks guys!Check the plastic nipple on the end of the primer tube. If its buggered up it may not be holding/releasing the primers correctly.
Good deal! Is the term "buggered" now a technical term in Dillon lore? I'm pretty sure it is in the UK...
Clever range markings
in Steel Challenge
Posted
We hold USPSA and IDPA matches in the same bay as the SC stages marked with the whisper spikes. No issues as of yet, and we've been doing it this was for 3 maybe 4 years.
Our bays are gravel/sand, so no issues with lawn mowers. Obviously it doesn't help if somebody goes: hey, what's this...? (and then pulls it out of the ground...)