renaissance7697

For DILLON: I removed (unscrewed) the bullet seating stem from the bullet seating Die body. With the stem removed, a 40 S&W bullet (.401) falls right through it freely. The inner "bore" of the die body measures .423 The widest portion of the bullet seating stem (aside from the "Male threaded portion" of the bullet seating stem measures .420 The male threads on the seating stem piece; measure .553 and .507 for the "peaks and grooves" respectively of the thread itself. I sure would appreciate if you could help me getting the seating depth of these .40 S&W bullets settled down. Right now my OAl is varying quite a bit. Philip Palatt. Military Operations Research Analyst Cubic Corp. - Defense Applications Group - East Coast Engineering Division 5695 King Centere Drive Alexandria, VA. 22315 Voice: 703-924-3050 x118 philip.palatt@cubic.com Supporting The Defense Threat Reduction Agency (DTRA) Weapons of Mass Destruction Assessment and Analysis Center

Dillon: On second thought..... Are you asking me if: After I remove the seating stem from the seating die............... Will the bullet I am using "fall through" the seating die bode (with the stem removed) If THIS is what you are asking... I don't know I'll have to check when I get home... Could you "restate the question" please ( in light of my two responses) Which are you asking?

In NO WAY does the nose of my bullet contact the deep end of the bullet seating stem cavity. The bullet seating stem cavity appears as if it might fit a: Long - Tapered - sharp pointed bullet The bullet I am using has a: Broad Flat nose.......... perched on a short fat truncated cone. (Metal Jaketed) It is the "ROZE / ZERO " .40 /10MM TCFM

Loading on a 650 (recently inherited) .40 S&W Zero Brand TCFM 180 "Old Style" Dies (No Clip-No Reversible Stem) The Only Bullet seating Stem I have for the .40 S&W Seating Die Seems to be a "conical" shape Like for a "long" - "pointed" Bullet I am using Truncated Cone Flat point ( I don't think I ever saw a long pointed .40S&W ) The OAL is coming out varying from 1.124 to 1.140 Seems (to me) like too much variation........... ( Book Max is 1.135 and I am shooting for 1.130 ) I wrote to Dillon and they say they did not make a semi-wadcutter in the old style .40 S&W (Not sure what shapes they DID make - and I Am not sure What shape I have) What to do ?? Is the shape of the seating stem head causing the variation in OAL or am I doing something wrong. (Or is this normal ???)

I have not "stripped" any yet but I find that: After sizeing my .40 mm S&W brass and then............... "Belling" or "Flaring" the case to the recommended .020 inch over sized diameter...... The cases do not slip "freely" into the seating die. They have to be "squeezed" a little by the seating die body. They DO go in with modest pressure, but I wonder still.... Shouldn't they go into the die body without touching the sides ? Is the recommended .020 "over sizeing" dimension still a good rule of thumb? I should note that I am using the "OLD" die style with the screw in bullet seater stem and the "Non Reversible" and "Non Clip removal" configuration. This shouldn't make a difference though,....should it ???

What exactly does the 650 "Indexing Tool" do ???

For ZHunter. The micrometer; when integrated with the powder charge bar: should give a specific volume in the charge bar cavity for every setting of the micrometer head. You need to determine (for every powder you intend to use): What "weight" of that powder corresponds to a given "volume" of the charge bar (which in turn corresponds to a given setting of the micrometer head.) This is done by experimentation. Choose micrometer settings - throw powder - and weigh. Build a graph starting with given settings Interpolate between points and check again. DO NOT EXTRAPOLATE ! This system worked very well for me with my RCBS Uniflow Powder Measure with the RCBS Micrometer Adjustment screw. I am hoping it will do the same for me with the Dillon bar and the uniteck micrometer. I have not set it up yet, so I do not yet know if this is going to be as reliable for me as was my RCBS combination. Dillon IS AWESOME ! BUT RCBS DID do some things better.

For Zhunter: Dillon does NOT make one............but these people do! www.uniquetek.com

How many 650 drivers use the Powder Checker? Why ? (actually this should be rather obvious) but Why NOT ????

Wow ! I thought I might be over doing it, after I had just sent in my last order to BrianE. I can see now that I have a long way to go before running with the "Tall Dogs" When I set up the components I have coming; I will have 6 ToolHeads One each set up in: 9mm 45 acp 38 Spl Wadcutter 357Mag .40 S&W .357Sig I will have Three Powder Measures One dedicated to .45acp On dedicated to 9mm and One which I will swap between the other 4 toolheads. I have a "micrometer" powder adjustment knob which I intend to mount on the "roveing" Powder head. I hope that once I have it calibrated for various powders and weights; that it will make swapping the Measure more convenient by enabling me to just "dial in" the required powder adjustment after I swap to "roamer". Before moveing up to the 650, I had a RCBS PiggyBack with just ONE Powder measure with the RCBS Micrometer head on it. This worked real well for me in that I could "Dial in" a previously calibrated powder and charge with 99% reliability. I hope that the micrometer I got for the Dillon will be as dependable I have One "Powder checker". with three (1 Large and 2 Medium) rods & Sleeves. Again; One dedicated to my pet .45 acp load, one for the pet 9mm and the third; to follow the "Roving" Powder measure and being adjusted/calibrated when I set the micrometer knob on the roving Powder Measure.Every tool head has its own Powder Die for mounting the Powder checker and Actually that is what moved me to go to the 650: I wanted to be able to: Seat and Crimp separately, AND Powder Check! ( I had one "unfortunate Incident" which I am resolved not to repeat") *************************** FOR ICAMBRE" I noted that you have a "Roving" Powder measure as well. How do you Adjust the "Non Dedicated" powder measure as you switch it from tool head to toolhead ???

How many Different Calibers are you set up (equiped ) to load for on your 650?

Thank you gtentlemen... The voice of experience sounds true It appears, as was suggested, that I was indeed making it more complicated than it needed to be. I will just have to practice backing the handle back just enough to cause the brass in the shell plate to clear the dies WITHOUT Going far enough to activate the index Thank you again An "Armed" Society Is a "Polite" Society renaissance

Because this is not a perfect world Even a properly adjusted and maintained 650 eventually Grinds to a stop mid cycle. Question is: how to clear the "jam" and regain the rhythm without major trauma. Typical situation: The ram "stops" on the down lever stroke with the shellplate almost but not completely in the raised position I can not complete the stroke (at least not without forcing and perhaps breaking something) If I back the lever up (lowering the ram) the shellPlate will index, advancing everything with: The cartridge in 5 going into the bin without the case crimped (I'm doing pistol) Perhaps the cartridge in station 2 not fully charged with powder due to the short stroke and the case not properly belled The cartridge in 4 > bullet not completely seated The cartridge in station 1 not completely sized etc……….etc NONE of these are GOOD THINGS ! All this BEFORE I even get around to figuring out what the cause of the "Jam" is.... What is the proper way to recover?? ********************************************************** A related question is: How can I TURN OFF the case feeder from delivering fresh shells to station 1……….? How can I TURN OFF the primer feeder to keep from throwing fresh and unused primers "down the chute"……...? As I try to work the lever to clear the jam. ********************************************************* Is there some way to keep the unused primers from falling out of the primer "tray" Into the chute as it rotates past station 2. If I could "support" the primers in the holes of the primer tray as it goes past the open to the bottom space It seems that they would rotate back to be used in the future. A "shim" of some kind ??? Can the primer disk advance mechanism be conveniently, temporarily "disconnected" ? *************************************************** Dose anyone have a "plug" that could be inserted into the case feeder rotating cam to keep new shells from coming out of the tube till you want them again ? *************************************** ************************************** Basically what I want to be able to do is: When I get a "jam" Stop the primer and case automatic feeding process So that I can Clear all the cartridges that were in process in the shell plate (and deal with each of them in an appropriate manner) And then after clearing the jam Go through the start up process all over again ********************************************************* This has to be a common problem Someone must have come up with a procedure to follow that will Assure that no "defective" cartridges get into the finished cartridge bin And Restart the smooth flow of the 650 ******************************************************** Renaissance needs to know Please respond to BOTH philip.palatt@cubic.com And renaissance@renman.cnc.net

We are "precisely" in the same boat. I was using a Piggyback on a rockchucker and just switched to "BLUE" I was quite happy with my piggy (it was/is a Piggy II upgraded with the case activated powder drop mechanism of the Piggy III) This gave me the BEST of both worlds: auto indexing (II) with the case activation III Only thing lacking was the ability to Seat and Size separately AND Mount a Powder check device SIMULTANEOUSLY. I got a chance at a good deal on a used 650 and took the plunge. I love it too ( It is a much better built piece of equipment) BUT There are several things that RCBS did do better i.e. > The uniflow powder measure with the micrometer The RCBS primer mechanism had some nice features too It would "stop feeding primers" when you stopped uing them. The BLUE just keeps feeding them and dumping them in that rediculously small catcher. I love the case feeder too BUT HOW CAN YOU TURN The damn thing off when you need to. IT is like "TOPSY" When it runs good (which ID most of the time) it is very good but When it goes BAD, it is much harder to recover from. NOW >> to some specifics. The 650 bells the case (I do pistol only) in the same station as the powder drop. RCBS did NOT If you mount a RCBS Uniflow at station 2 on the 650.... (Which looks like it would be easy....) HOW DO you bell the case ??? renaissance@renman.cnc.net

SHRED: Re your: "Counting works too, but changing primer sizes can throw that off" Do the large and small primer disks NOT have the same number of holes ??

How do you guys "start up" a run on a 650? I am trying to fix in my mind a preocedure for starting up a run on a 650 from dead in the water - empty - all stop. I've come up with the following: 1) Fill primer Magazine 2) Advance primer disk six (6) times (by hand = actuating the primer advance lever without sttroking the handle). 3) Fill case feeder bowl 4) Run case feeder till the tube fills up now 5) Stroke the Handle once down and up This should get a case from the case feeder mechanism and shove it into station 1 It should also (though I can't figure out how to see it) advance the first primer to the "on deck" position MINUS ONE (the on deck "position being atop the primer punch on station 2) 6) Stroke the handle a second time The first primer should advance to the "on deck" position on top of the primer seating punch in station 2 at the end of the second down stroke of the lever The first case should advance to station 2 at the beginning of the second up stroke.........and The the first primer should seat into the first casing at the end of the second up stroke All should be in sequence from then on Topping the powder laden case with a bullet as it reaches station 4 ( I have a powder checker in statiojn 3) Just feeding primers to the primer magazine when is screeches for them...and feeding cases to the case feeder hopper as necessary. Does this sound right ???? Anyone got a better way of thinking about it? renaissance needs to know!

Is it Doable? Has anyone tried it? What luck ?

If you can't figure it out... Send the whole shebang to Dillon They will check it out, replace any part that looks worn, adjust everything, and test it to make sure your "problem (or any other) is fixed; before returning it to you. The only cost to you will be one way shipping (TO Dillon). Can't beat it!

I am an experienced reloader but New to Dillon ( A longtime RCBS Piggyback User) In preparing to set up my newly acquired (but previously owned) 650.......... It appears that; in order for the Powder measure to be orientated properly on the toolhead, that the adjustment screw for the powder bar needs to be on the side of the powder measure facing AWAY from the operator. This appears to be necessary in order for the Failsafe rod to properly connect with the press body. Question: If I use the "old system" ( = 2 springs to positively return the charge bar) and LEAVE the FailSafe Rod OUT of the assembly.............. Is there any reason why I should not orientate the Powder Measure in such a position that the powder bar adjustment knob FACES the operator while operating the 650 ??? renaissance@renman.cnc.net

Has anyone ever sucessfully used a: RCBS "Powder Lock Out Die" on a Dillon 650 ??

How can you tell VISUALLY when you have run out of primers. I know the "feel" is different.. when you trie to press in a primer that was not there but is there a way to SEE that the are no primers in the primer disk? Am I right in believing that the "Low Primer Warning system" tells you only when primers are "LOW" not OUT??

Would someone please describe this item. A Users Manual / Instruction Sheet A Schematic A Physical Description A PICTURE What Parts does the kit contain How does it install ininstall (two Bolts ??--What does this mean) anything................

I can't stand it any more At the risk (Hell....absolute surrity) of looking dumb.......... WHAT the HELL IS IT ????????

3.7 Clays with 230 grain lead or copper coated/plated 4.1 or 4.2 Titegroup with same. 1.255-1.260 for Round nosed Clays is softer recoiling and cleaner Titegroup leaves (either a residue or unburnt powder) I like straight CLAYS

Cylinder and Slide's "Dunk Kit". ( Their "Soak, brush, Rinse, and wipe dry it handgun cleaning kit ) What do you all think? The price is pretty high. Is it worth it? Does it do a "good enough" job? What is the stuff basically? I'm not anal about cleaning my guns, but I don't want them to rust and I DO want them to work! I have "quite a few" of them and I shoot most of them on a rotating basis. Cleaning gets to be a chore. Does anyone have any experience actually useing it? What (in detail) is the procedure. C&S is pretty brief in their description. renman@concentric.net