renaissance7697

I routinely get one or two (per 100 rounds) primers that wind up in the primer disk SIDEWAYS ! Of course nothing good can come of that. They either wind up shoved into the case primer socket sideways, or worse... Jam the shell plate. It seems to happen with the large primers...I don't recall it happening when using small primers (though it might). What can cause that? Can I adjust it away ?? How ?? ( Or is it just "one of those things that I have to learn to live with ?) Is one or two per hundred excessive ??

I am near finnished setting up six dedicated toolheads for my 650 (Finished .38spl DEWC - .357Mag -. 40&W - 9mm - and .45acp....... Have .357Sig to go)...........when I realized: While I usually use 230 grain HardCast Lead Round Nosed in .45 acp I had always intended to try and possibly switch to 230gr HCL Semi Wad Cutters. Assuming I stick to my load (3.7 Clays); Am I correct in assuming that the only alterations I should need to make to my toolhead set up for 230 HCL RN.....to switch to 230 SWC....: would be the Bullet seating die? That is: That I could leave my: Sizing - Powder Drop - Powder Check - and Crimp Stations set as they were (for the Round Nosed) And just re set up and adjust the Seating Die?? ( I would have to change the seating stem ( RN to WadCutter) and Adjust the Bullet seating STEM to give my desired bullet seating depth and corresponding OAL ) ???????????? That should be relatively straight forward. Reverse/replace seating stem and adjust stem till I measure with calipers, that I am getting the required OAL. or I could of course set up a seventh toolhead, but that would require a second set of .45 acp dies. My instinct says that would be overkill. I should be able to reliable make the simple adjustments without risking a problem What do you all think ???

Woha there.................. I did not understand the situation here. When I saw posts from "Dillon", I thought that this was "Dillon Customer Service" speaking. Now I am given to understand that "Dillon" (as a handle) is: "The Sales manager" at Dillon Precission Whose handle just happens to be "Dillon"...... (what a coincidence) But is speaking in a "Non Official Capacity" ( How could I possibly have made that mistake.............?? ) Seriously, though: I in no manner intended to offend or criticize Gary. I just naturally thought that Dillon Precision personnel (in an official capacity) naturally monitored a forum such as this, to "keep a hand on the pulse" so to speak.......I know I would ! I thought "Dillon" was speaking officially for "Dillon Precision". and, could not understand why "he"/"they" didn't just tell "TW" to send the damn thing in for evaluation and/or repair/replacement ( No BS) 1) Gary....walk downstairs and talk to the people in Customer Service 2) TW...Send the damn thing in to Dillon Precision ( No BS) 3) Dillon Precision.....Send TW a new one 4) renaissance.....sit down and shut up let's always remember that: An ARMED Society Is a POLITE Society Ant that: Everyone should believe in something............... I believe I will have another beer..!!

I just read somewhere that Winchester is going to start using "SMALL Pistol Primers" in their .45 acp........ Bummer ....if this is true. When reloading with Indoor range "pick up Brass"....(mine and others that get mixed in)....................How would we separate the "small" from the "large" primer socketed cases ?????? Can one "visually" tell one from the other; reliably ?? Would one have to "measure" (go-nogo gauge ??) ???? PITA ! Hope this does NOT come to past ! What do you all think ???

Next to last.........and FINAL last comment on this one: Next to last: Re: Bronson7's comment on the "white plastic cube" Is your "flare/belling" consistent ? If it is....and your powder throw is not.....it narrows the problem down some. And FINAL ABSOLUTE VERY last........ SEND IT BACK ! ! ! ! ******************************** Dillon: I just can NOT understand you letting this drag on so.............. What point are you trying to make ?????????

As to twBryan's problem............. 1. Are you sure you have the Dillon POwder measure assembled correctly, with the proper powder bar and spacer (if using the small). 2. Are you sure you are "measuring" the charges consistently............. ie Not lubing the inside of the cases so powder "sticks" when pouring it onto your scale ? If you are using an electronic scale, watch out for "drafts" of air screwing up your readings 3. Are you sure there is nothing "stuck" in the bottom of the powder measure cylinder, causing inconsistent powder flow into the powder bar slide. There are too many Dillon measures out there the DO work reliably. Something must be wrong with "Yours"! I (as many others - but - Not Dillon {lawyers}) have removed the clunking powder slide return mechanism and gone to two (2) springs -----much better----- Dillon: This guy is trying real hard to make it work for him! Maybe you should send him a "new" one to try (exchange) and Take a good look at the one he is having trouble with. ************************************* As an aside: I have three (3) powder measures on my newly inherited 650. They are working pretty well for me, and throwing pretty consistent charges; though I must say that I liked my RCBS Powder measure that I used to use on my Piggyback...better. I had it (the RCBS) rigged with their Micrometer Powder charge adjusting plug (variable -resettable/recallable)....and the newer Case mouth activation mechanism. It was consistent and you could "dial in" a previously recorded powder charge with excellent accuracy ( on my Piggyback) I had thought about trying to adapt my RCBS to work on the 650. I couldn't figure out how to get the RCBS to "Flare" the case mouth as it dropped the powder. How could you do that ?? While I was pondering that question; I discovered the Uniquetek microhead for the Dillon. It works rea good too. But: How could one make the RCBS work on the Dillon 650 ??

Thank You Dillon: I had never heard of this "buttering Up" before. It seems like a good idea. When I think about it: I don't recall reading much about >> where, what ,How, or with what: to lube the 650, (except for #30 Motor Oil on the main shaft). Why is there not more about this in the 650 Manual ? I figured out myself to grease (paste) the various black plastic wedges and ramps where the plastic slides against a metal guide, but: Where else is oiling/greasing recommended ??

I can not shake from my mind: the recollection of reading somewhere ( I think it was in a Dillon Manual), [[ re: 650 ]] To "be careful not to": Dislodge or loose....the "spring" under the Station One Locator slide ! I can not find the reference again. Nor can I find a spring under my station one locator slide..... Nor even a "place" where one might supposedly live ! Was I dreaming (Having a Nightmare)? Senior Moment ? Brain Fart ?? Any one else recall reading (or finding) any such ???

****************************** Seems like an "extreme" enhancement to me'but If it works for you AND you have the "resources" .........GO MAN! Where does the "Air" come from? Compressor?....Vacuum Exhauset ?? You don't "blow" do you ???

Setting up the fifth (of 6) toolheads for my recently inherited 650 >> this one = .45ACP Was UNable to firmly affix my Powder Checker to the Powder Die in Station 3. Checked both the Powder Checker portion AND the Powder Die. Could find NO obvious problems or defects BUT Even with leaning REAL Hard on the Checker Die lock down screw... It would just NOT tighten the checker body firmly. Tried another Powder die...It worked fine. After completing the Toolhead set up with the second powder Die, I examined the Powder die which the Powder Checker would not tighten up on. It looked OK... - It appeared new (I had recently purchased several in preparation for setting up six dedicated toolheads)...but.. The Powder checker just would NOT "snug down". Got out my Digital Calipers and discovered that this one powder Die was dimensionally different from two others. Not much, but apparently enough. The other two would accept the Powder checker firmly, this one would not. ************ Good Dies [ Ones which would accept the Powder Checker firmly] (Only measured two): .866" Outside Diameter at the Top and below the "Groove" with a .753" Diameter "Groove" .210" wide. ************************* The One which would NOT allow securing the Powder checker firmly: .861" Outside Diameter at the Top and below the "grove" .753" Diameter Groove >. 207 wide. *******************************

Still getting acquainted with my newly inherited 650. Had set up toolheads and succesfully operated 650 in: 9mm - 38 Spl - 357Mag - .40S&W Changeover got easier & QUICKER with familiarity Not quite 10 min but reasonable Tackled .45 acp Came head to head with the Primer system. I'd like to watch someone do a .357Mag to .45acp changeover in 10 Minutes. To Marvel-Admire and learn how it is supposedly done. It took ME most of the morning. (Admittedly- after acomplishing it the 650 churned out beautiful rounds in quick time) I couldn't figure out how to get to the primer punch without partially dismanteling the press. At the very least removing the primer "Ski Jump". When I got to it, I couldn't get my 9/16 wrench on it. I finally got it off with a 19/32" that I had lying around (Dosen't everyone???). The 19/32 was big, but it worked. I believe that the nut IS supposed to be 9/16 like the manual says; but the finish on the nut is rough and try as I might, I couldn't get my 9/16 over it. Changing the priming disk on the priming unit; from small to large is the very LEAST of the job. (Buying an alternate Primer unit for large/vs/small hardly seems worth the $) I found that adjusting the: Station 1 "Case Pusher into shellplate".......and Station 2 Positioning retainer according to the book...gave me marginal reliability results I found that I achieved more reliable operation adjusting both... to push and hold respectively, with full contact and pressure. Since they are both "spring" tensioned, this seemed to present little problems, and the associated increase drag was not significant to be noticeable. It's an "adventure".

Working with newly inherited 650. Got 9mm and .40 S&W working pretty well (all on dedicated toolheads) Am working on .38spl WC for my 52-2....................... Occasionally (too often for comfort) In the middle of a "rythm": The press stops just short of the "full lever up" position. The problem seems to be either (or a combination of one of the following): 1. "Pulled Back" primers. after some "jiggling" and muttering the stopage is cleared, but I find the spent primer; back in the pocket. It had to have been pushed out, but apparently was pulled back in (which prevented the new primer from being seated, and caused the stoppage) 2. Case not being slid/pushed... all the way (or "smoothly") into station one. Occasionaly this is due to a "S&B" case which seems to have a "narrow" extractor groove. These case fit easily into the shellplate for my RCBS Piggyback, but the Dillon Shellholder seems to be "tighter". 3. The "taller" (compared to 9mm and .40S&W) cases tend to "tip": and the case rims "catch" on the face of the die opening 4. The completed shell does not slide "smoothly" out of station 5 but seems to "JAM" in the shellplate up against that wire rod that is supposed to "guide it out of the slot into the completed bin. Now I have to confess: I am NOT using Dillon dies ( I have a set on my wish list - coming, but they are the "old style"). I understand that the "newer" style have larger radii AND some kind of mechanism that supposedly "flip" the pushed out expended primers off from the depriming pin so they can't pull back.........but..... is there anything I can do to improve the situation with what I have ?? I'm not at all sure that the Shell plate that come with my 650 conversion set is not "burred up". Spinning case by hand in the station slots does NOT exhibit a "smooth" sensation. ALSO I am not confident that the shellplate is stopping in good alignment with the rest of the press. The ball detent should assure this shouldn't it?? Is there an adjustment for the shellplate advancement (indexing?) ?? What do you all think ????

How, Where and When............... should you grease a 650 ? (You would think that the 650 Manual would tell, but I can't find it!) Lacking a Dillon Maintenance kit; What should I use? Some one mentioned Ballistol (which I have) Isn't that too "oily" ? (Powder flakes sticking to it...............) renaissance needs to know

Magnet.....Sure ....Easy! But what about one of those "Brass" locator pins? And while I on the subject I remember reading about some kind of "tab" that you put under the head of the " Numbered, caliber specific, locator pin" around the shaft and between the head and the shellplate platform To keep you from "dropping" the sucker in the first place! Where can you get these? or Do you have to make them? renaissance needs to know!

Mounted Up my new .38/.357 Conversion kit (BEnos) , and tried to crank out a bunch of .38Spl Wadcutters. Had a conciderable number of completed shells that jammed on trying to exit the shellplate from station 5 into the completed bin. Also had a number of empty shells jamming on attempting to enter station 1 from the case feeder. Seems to me that it is usually the SAME station on the shellplate involved. I removed the shellplate, and: An empty .38 case seems to NOT spin smoothly (rougher than the others) when rotated with my fingertips within one specific station in the shellplate. My suspicion is that there is a rough edge somewhere in that station of the shellplate. Can't see it though, and am a loss as to how to smooth it out if I found it. Any suggestions ??

Believe me, I feel your pain. I too have a beautiful RCBS Uniflow Powder measure with the Micrometer Screw attachment and a Case activated powder drop mechanism. ( I used to reload exclusively on RCBS [ A Piggyback II on a rockchucker] ) I too, wanted to use it on my newly acquired Dillon 650. RCBS DOES still DO SOMETHINGS better! Just isn't meant to be. I do believe I may have found an substitute, though. The "UniqueTek Micrometer Screw" replacement for the Dillon Bolt. Got one and mounted it on my Dillon Powder measure. It seems to be doing the Job. I still liked the RCBS Better, but this is Working!

The Dillon set up "flares" the case as it loads the powder( all in station 2 ) In the RCBS set up, you Flare and charge in two separate steps. Maybe if you used a "non - dillon" flaring die in station two, and then put the RCBS powder charger in station 3.................................................?? But then you only have two stations left which you need for separate seat and crimp leaving no space for Powder checking. OR Seat AND crimp in 5 and powder check in 4........... I got the 650 ( 5 stations) so I could !. Seat and Crimp Separately (and seeing how much better the fit of my finnished cartridge is, I am NEVER going back to doing it togeather) AND 2. Use a powder check I can only do that if I flare and pass through powder in one step As far as I know, I can only do that with the Dillon Powder Drop Station

More on the Uniquetek Micrometer Powder Measure knob. As I said previously, the installation went easier than anticipated. The calibration was pretty routine. I calibrated for CLAYS which is my favorite powder. Threw 7 charges @ for micrometer settings of 0, 25, 50, 75, 100, 125, etc. Threw out the highest and the lowest and then averaged the remaining 5. Drew a graph which turned out to be very close to a straight line once I got above the zero area (that was encouraging). Found that I could pretty much return to the same charges by dialing back in (always careful to approach it from the same side (higher or lower). Made one mistake. Tried to dial back down with the powder bar in the "drop powder from cylinder to the charge bar cavity' posistion ( = Press handle UP position). After I started to feel considerable resistance, I realized that I was compressing powder in the charge bar cavity. Not something I wanted to do. The micrometer head started acting funny - the micrometer head was spinning without moving/traveling along the scale - I worried I had "broken" something (or maybe broke one of the "locktite" bondings involved in the assembly of the miocrohead to the charge bar). Then I noticed the screw securing the microhead cylinder to the shave was "loose". Apparently this was caused by my trying to compress the powder with the screw. Maybe this is a "safety feature to prevent damage"? ( UniqueTek - please comment on this ) should there be something in the instructions about this ?? Tightening the screw seemed to fix everything, and my calibration was still good. All in all I have a good feeling about this UniqueTek Microhead. I have reason to believe that it may make my Dillon measure behave as well as my previous RCBS ( with a factory Microscrew Attachment ) It was versatile and dependably repeatable. So far so Good. My only criticism is that the dial markings are a bit faint.

Getting to know my recently inherited 650 Installed a uniquetec micrometer head on one of my dillon powder measures ( the installation went better [easier] than I anticipated ) Trying to calibrate it. My plan was to average the weight thrown over 5 charges for each calibration point of the micrometer in increments of 5,10,15,&25 Then build a graph. I attempted to throw 5 loads into the same single case ( ~ 2 grains @ ofClays in a .38 Spl case) with the micrometer set to # 25 on the scale. BY: 1. Pulling the lever down once > throwing the first charge 2. raising the handle just enough to clear the funnel but not increment the shellplate 3. Pulling the lever down again > throwing another charge into the same case 4. Repeat till 5 charges were in the case 5. Weight the 5 charges and average by dividing by 5 Going through the above proceedure a number of times (to do a sanity check on my results)......I found that: My results were all over the place. Totally inconsistent results. Much head scratching later, I started throwing a single charge into a case alowing the case to index to the next position, and weighing the individual throw. Results were MUCH more Consistent. I took me a while to figure it out, but my fantasy is that the Dillon Powder measure ( At least throwing CLAYS (just plain CLAYS) REQUIRES That "BANG" of the lever against the stops.... both in the full "down" and "up" extremes of the lever manipulation To CONSISTENTLY fill the cavity of the Powder measure charge Bar and then drop it into the case. Does that sound right to the group ???

Getting acquainted with my recently inherited 650 It came to me set up for 9mm. I built a large supply of 9mm...so far so good I bought the material Dillon recommended for converting to .40 S&W. Converted to .40 S&W (or so I thought) After somewhat of a learning curve, I got it cranking .40 S&W I built a pile of .40 S&W Decided to try for .38 Spl Full Wad Cutter Got the conversion stuff While making the conversion, I discovered that: I never changed from the small to large pistol case feeder disk when converting from 9mm to .40 S&W ( I got the large pistol case feeder when I got the conversion parts... just neglected to change it) Yet The .40 S&W build (over a thousand) went just fine. ( I DID keep the case feeder on low - that was plenty fast enough) What gives ?? Is Dillon being over fussy in their recommendations? If the "small" disk is OK for .40 S&W Is it OK for 38spl as well ?? renaissance needs to know..........

Believe this might have been the Uniquetec

EricW My bad............ Must have had a senior moment I did mean Electronic SCALE Not MEASURE.................... I DO know the difference Just had a "Brain Fart"

I had been wanting to get an electronic Powder measure for quite a while. My RCBS 10-10 is accurate and reliable, but slow Went to "RightOnScales" Tried their "Jennings" It would not calibrate. Returned it and upgraded to the PACT II. It would not hold its Zero. I gave up! I read all the time of people using digital scales and loving them without any problems. Where did I go wrong? Was I just unlucky? What do you "satisfied" digital Scale Users recommend? I read somewhere that the "Dillon" electronic has a Three (3) point suspension which it was claimed made it less responsive to off center loads. Anything to this. How much do I have to spend to get a reliable and convenient Electronic scale. Which one do you all recommend?

Hey Flex: I tried a number of search word phrases: i.e >> Powder Measure Dials .............. etc. The only thread I came up with which addressed.....>> Experience with existing choices and recommendations as to which (if any) was worth the $ etc was THIS ONE. What are the magic words ?? ************************************ The threads the search came up with merely "listed" the choices [ and gave a on line tour of Home Depot ] Has anyone actually bought any of these? and What comments might anyone have about their worth ?? ******************************************* I for one BOUGHT the "Uniteck" The instalation instructions are not clear. You are supposed to "LockTite" various surfaces on the Uniteck to various surfaces on the existing Dillon Bar. I haven't got up the courage to try it yet. My only experience with Lock Tite, was: If you don't get it right the first time............ Kiss it all goodby. I bought the unitec, because of my EXCELLENT experience with The "MicroDial" RCBS unit. It is GREAT......!! I had hoped that the uniteck would duplicate my RCBS experience on the Dillon. It may yet but Uniteck would do well to either simplify the instalation \ or offer to "upgrade" YOUR dillon Bar with a "correct" installation of their product. Uniteck.....are you listening ???