saibot
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Posts posted by saibot
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I can't find the ZD on their website. I do see the KD, did they take it down? (or more likely I'm just missing it)
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Although it's only been a short amount of time since I started I'm already figuring a few things out. For instance I think I understand the "Slow is smooth and smooth is fast" statement. During my draw if I just "explode" and whip my hands to my gun and aggressively drive the gun to the target it "seems" really fast but the timer doesn't lie. When I forget about speed and I work on being smooth the sights just land where they should be before the par time beep goes off. In that same vain, I also noticed that I do best when I lock everything, shoulders included, and just let my arms do the draw and drive. Hard to describe but again, smooth with very little wasted movement.
I've also noticed that my grip may have to change a bit to allow the sights to naturally index. I do have to force the front sight to the right a little for a perfect sight picture. I just don't want to do something that will hurt my dryfire so I'll have to work on that at the range.
I don't know how Steve Anderson does 2 sections of these drills in one session. I run out of time or steam before the first section and wind up bouncing around the drills. It must take hours!
Oh, and Roy, following your advice, I'm trying to schedule one day a week at the range for livefire. I gotta get out of C class!!
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As I outlined HERE I'm committing to dryfire practice every day for 30 consecutive days to see what happens. I bought Steve Anderson's dryfire book and following his methodology and just a few days in I'm already starting to see my sights a little quicker and my par times are shrinking. I hope it translates to better performance in the matches!
Now I'm throwing down the gauntlet and making this public so I can't back out or get lazy.
I'm also wondering if any of you have tried the same thing and what your results were.
Looking forward to breaking out of C class!
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pmclaine-
Very nice and well thought out setup. I like your modular mount. How is it working for you? Sturdy enough?
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427Cobra-
What a great idea!
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JayJayJay, very nice bench!! And very well laid out.
Sorry for the delay on the next in the series. I've been having a hard time getting a decent photo of it because I can't back up enough to get it all in a photo. So I took a bunch of them and tried to stitch them together in Photoshop, but unfortunately, it didn't turn out very well. I'll have to do it again with a tripod. But here's a quick stitch of the bench top. I'll get more up soon.
Enjoy.
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After a lot of research and hit and miss results I built my "Ultimate Reloading Bench" and thought I'd share how I did it. I thought I'd post this a while back but it seemed to be a lot for a single post so I broke it up on my blog and thought I'd share it this way.
I hope you find it useful!
http://www.recoilsports.com/2011/02/ultimate-reloading-bench-series-part-1/
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Depending on what I'm trimming, I use a couple of different trimmers. For pistol, I don't trim. For .223/5.56 I use the Possom Hollow trimmer chucked up in a drill in a vice. And when others say it's a PITA to get setup they are not kidding! It took me quite a while to get just perfect, but once set it's trimmed thousands of cases without ever shifting or needing to be readjusted. For my precision 308 I too use the Lee Zip trim/Lee trimmer which works great for me and was very inexpensive.
The Giraud trimmers look like they do a great job and anyone I know that has one says they are the bees knees, but they are out of my price range.
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I too have noticed the S&B pistol brass can cause me some issues inserting a new primer if I don't have the press perfectly setup. WCC brass gets sorted out because I seem to have to swage it to get a primer in it. Other than that any boxer primer case seems to work. I loath TAA .223 cases, but that's a whole other topic.
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I'm a hoover for pistol brass. Anything in my caliber I pick up and add to the pile. I've loaded 10's of thousands of it and never really had any issues. My sizing die seems to fix it all.
That being said, once fired brass from a reputable retailer should present no issues for you.
/2 cents
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I'm not sure if this helps, but what about co-witnessing your optic with a system that you don't have to swap on/off like the RRA Dominator2? I used to use one and may actually go back to it.
Just something to consider.
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I haven't used that one but have used the Blade-Tech version which looks almost identical. I wear it at 90 degrees and have never lost a mag out of it so I'm sure it should serve you well.
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I've noticed on some ARs that I can't insert a full mag (or even 28) on a closed bolt by slamming it. I've slammed the mags so hard that I've some how dislodged rounds from the mag which I would think was impossible since the bolt is closed, but hey, Murphy is always just hanging around. Anyway, on these difficult rifles it seems to work much better if I beer can hold the mag and firmly push (not slam) the mag while directing most of the energy at the rear of the magwell if that makes any sense. That works every time with my DPMS whereas slamming doesn't. YMMV, but you might try it out and see if that works for you, too.
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I haven't had any problems with my CMMG kit bothering an optic or anyone that I know who uses one.
I did ruin a rimfire scope by putting it on a 308. I just bought the rifle and just couldn't wait to fire it and my Leupold was in the mail. My buddy and I took bets on how many shots it would take. It took 3.
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I know the LaRue is a chunk of change initially, but it's going to last a lifetime and will probably hold several optics over its lifetime. If you want QD so you can go to BUIS for some reason, or you want several optics for your AR, you can switch them back and forth and have confidence that they will remain zeroed.
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I recently got the stainless steel CMMG kit and dropped it into my RRA. It runs great. It even runs the old Remington Subsonics that NOTHING else would cycle which is good since I have bricks of the stuff I was getting ready to pitch. I got it to work on my CQB stuff in the action bays at my club where you cannot fire high power rounds so this worked great. I shot my first speed steel match with it and it ran perfectly.
It is dirty. I found if I fire copper plated ammo through it there is MUCH less fouling. I just shoot a couple of 5.56 cartridges through it and it's GTG.
My 2 cents.
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What comp are you using?
I have an AAC on one and a Miculek on the other. But wobbly before the shot is even taken.
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Book on it's way from Amazon.
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Thanks for the replies! And yes it is definitely me. The rifle shoot great when I do my part. I'm just looking for ways to practice/dryfire and any fundamental methods I'm probably overlooking. Thanks for the tip on the book! I'll check it out.
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I shot a PR match yesterday and did really poorly and it seems the problem was getting my AR steady. My reticle was just bouncing around like crazy requiring multiple shots to hit the targets while shooting supported. It was like I was shooting offhand! I try to put the forearm on barrels, etc, but I just can't keep the bobble out. One stage had an old tire on top of a barrel and it was ridiculous how bad it was bouncing around.
Any tips or fundamentals to getting this thing steady while shooting supported? I need help!
Thanks!
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mildot1
You are correct on all counts. Things really changed when I started using a bullet comparator. I wrote a post about it with some pictures. Notice the first one of the meplats. Very uneven.
http://www.recoilsports.com/2011/02/improve-your-handloads-with-a-bullet-comparator/
I also started loading my precision ammo on a Forester single stage press. The Dillon 650 I have is great for my autoloaders but just not consistent enough for my bolt gun.
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I keep it simple. I bought a new complete BCG that I'll slap into the first AR that has an issue. I can change out a BCG in 15 seconds without the need for light or fine manipulation which is nice for those night/cold/wet/etc matches. I can fix the old BCG when I get home.
Just my 2 cents.
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paraman1-
I did notice that there was zero lubrication in the buffer tube area. Sounded like an old screen door when charging it.
I promptly CLP'd it after discovering it.
Glad to hear it had such a dramatic effect for you!
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I've had pretty good luck with 24.3, but will be doing some more experimenting now.
Thanks all for the info!
Sling Mount Question
in Rifle - Technical
Posted
You're correct. If you use the one on the gas block you will be affect the POI when pressure is added/changed for the same reason we all have moved to floating hand guards. Does your hand guard have a place to add a swivel stud? If not, and if does have a picatiny rail you can add one of the Magpul ones on it.