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saibot

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Posts posted by saibot

  1. al503, I checked thirty of them and some are harder than others to get back out. None of them just fall out if turned upside down, even some of my old batch with the old taper die.

    whatmeworry, I found one of my rounds that I "unloaded and made clear" that didn't come apart and the OAL is still fine so it appears that they're not compressing, but there were serious marks all the way to the brass around most of the bullet almost like it was too large. Could a barrel that wasn't cleaned enough get so much fouling that it could reduce the diameter and cause this? I didn't clean it after the last time I used it.

    Thanks for all of the tips, everyone!

  2. DC-

    Good call! I didn't even think about that but it makes sense and really fits the symptoms.

    Anyone have any OAL suggestions for the M&P FS9 with 125 grain precision bullets? I've been setting it at 1.1355, so I'll try to go a little shorter.

    For the remaining 800 rounds from that batch can I set the bullet a little deeper after it's been crimped?

    Thanks for your help!

  3. At today's match when I was told to "unload and make clear," I racked the slide and noticed powder in the chamber. It looked like the round had come apart and just figured it all dropped out the magwell. Thank God I played it safe and took my M&P apart in the safety area to check because the bullet was still in the barrel! I went to an empty bay and put a few more rounds down range and all went well but I continued to check the barrel after each stage. A couple of stages later when unloading and making clear I noticed that it was very difficult to rack the slide and the round separated again leaving the bullet in the barrel.

    What's going on?

    I've just started reloading and was using a Lee taper die but just switched to a Lee factory crimp die and I was thinking maybe I wasn't crimping enough. Or could this be something in the barrel that is clamping the bullet in place causing it to separate when it's racked. I didn't notice anything unusual in the barrel when I cleaned it afterward.

    Any ideas? How can you tell if you're crimping enough with the Lee factory crimp die?

    Thanks!

  4. Thanks all for the great information!

    I was told by my friend that I was wearing my mag pouch and holster a little too far forward. I didn't realize that was a production only thing.

    Knowing the rules now I'm curious what class you all suggest I (with my 9mm) compete in and why?

    TIA

  5. During my 2nd match this weekend where I signed up as Production, I was informed that I was in the wrong class with my M&P9 with 17rd mags and I should be in Limited class. If production only allows 10 rd mags, why even have it since it's really no different from the Limited 10.

    I'm sure I'm just missing something. What's the difference?

    Thanks!

  6. Has anyone tried the S&W 22A?

    I borrowed one and put about 500 rds through it with about 30 FTF/FTEs. The little square hook that keeps the end attached broke off and I found it on the ground while cleaning up my brass. I don't believe that it was a manufacturing defect, but rather the owner opening it too far while field striping it. I called S&W and even though I wasn't the owner (the original owner died years ago) and they were under no obligation to repair it under warranty, they without any hesitation repaired it. They even paid for overnight shipping both ways.

    Besides their excellent customer service the 22A was a little tack driver, even with the cheap bulk ammo.

  7. I have a Rugger 22/45 MIII. It shoots well. My only complaint is that it is a real b!+ch to break down for cleaning. Field stripping of this pistol is more complicated than detail stripping of every other handgun I own. I made a mistake of detail stripping it once. I eventually got it back together with a lot of help from the internet and trial and error. My solution is to stop cleaning it. I run a bore-snake through it once in a while and lube it up a bit.

    I had the same experience with this pistol. I bought it as a low cost trainer for my M&P, not that it feels anywhere the same. It was cheap and had a lot of information available which came in handy because it stovepiped every other shot right out of the box. I did a little google'ing and found the problem was the stock extractor. I ordered the EDM version ($11) and it's been great every since, even with the cheapest ammo I can find.

  8. After recently being infected with the competitive shooting virus I decided that I wanted to really focus on training to see what I was capable of achieving. I’ve been sifting through all of the great content on this site and reading Brian’s book to get a better understanding of what I need to do. But the problem I’m having is that all of the training and great advice is without cohesion to a timeline (or more accurately, a point in a person’s development). It doesn’t have any reference to where I am on the scale of experience.

    Since my resources (time and money) are extremely limited I want to be sure I’m effectively training to get the most bang for my buck. I was trying to envision a training program that would span the entire gamut; Never touched a gun before all the way to pushing from Master to Grand Master and beyond.

    Then I hit the wall. I couldn’t just have drills thrown at me because they assume a certain level of understanding and typically build upon fundamentals that are assumed mastered. Then add to the equation that no two people learn the same way and at the same rate. One skill may be the easiest for one person but take a significant amount of practice to master for the next , as learning isn’t linear across multiple people. And forget about a timeline in the traditional sense. You can’t pin a skill to n amount of time spent performing x training exercise.

    So all of this is bouncing around in my head and I’m trying to create a program for myself with knowing enough to know what I don’t know when it occurs to me this is similar to the problem of studying particle physics. There is just too much unknown to even start to quantify a “model”. So they came up with the “Standard Model” which aims to be a benchmark of sorts by which to compare everything else.

    So if a Standard Model were to exist you could easily look down the line to see what skills you have, or lack, and in which order most people acquire them and work on the appropriate drills/training. You would then be able to move down the line at your own pace ensuring you had enough of a foundation to quickly develop the next skill. That’s the theory at least. I know I’m probably overthinking this, but I thought I’d throw this out there and see what you all thought.

    So, what would it look like? Of course it would start out with nomenclature and safe handling practices and the proper mindset. Then perhaps work on the fundamentals of grip, stance, and trigger control?

    Anyone care to take a stab at it?

  9. I had a friend for out of town gave me his reloading kit, a Lee single stage press kit, and just got the dies for 9mm Luger. So I think I have everything I need to get going, but now comes the hard part...where to start? Lee only recommends CCI and Winchester primers so that's easy, and I'll be reloading my once shot brass. But I'm not sure about the rest. My goal is to have lots of practice ammo as well as ammo for USPSA matches. I have a M&P9 with the stock barrel, so I was thinking about using the moly coated precisionbullets (http://www.precisionbullets.com/) or the plated (http://www.berrysmfg.com/11.php) berry's bullets.

    I have no idea about what powder to get or how much to use or any of the technical data. Where can I find reliable, safe information?

    It's all a little overwhelming! :wacko:

    Thanks!

  10. Hi experts!

    Newb question. A friend of mine said he doesn't shoot much anymore and said I could have his Lee reloading kit. He said I should start off with a singe stage to learn and then a progressive to get higher production. He also said I'd need to get carbide dies from my 9x19 luger to use it. I went to Lee's website and they have 3 or 4 piece die sets and I don't know which to get. And if I want to move to a Dillon 650, for example, could I use the same dies? Are they all the same? If so should I get the Lee's?

    I also saw a blurb on http://www.precisionbullets.com/ about not using Lee dies:

    RELOADING TIPS

    Make sure to have a good bell on the case so not to shave off the coating during the seating process.

    Do not seat and crimp the bullets in the same die. Use a separate taper crimp die.

    We highly recommend Dillon reloading equipment.

    Do not use a roll crimp or Lee Factory Taper Crimp Dies.

    The roll crimp will cut through the coating. You must use a taper crimp die.

    The Lee Factory Taper Crimp Die will undersize the bullets causing accuracy and fouling problems.

    Most of the time a heavier crimp will work better.

    Would this be the same for plated bullets?

    Ahh! Help!

  11. I was telling a friend that I was consistently shooting high with my M&P FS9 and he gave me some advice about my grip/stance/ammo that seemed to have fixed it. I'm not sure which part did the trick but I went from the 115 to 124 grain bullets and I see they are available in 125 and 147 grain as well. What is the difference? What are the pros and cons and which is best for IPSC?

    Thanks!

  12. Well I finally was able to make it to a match today. It was my first match and I wasn't really sure if I was ready because I'm such a newb; not just to the sport but I really don't have much experience with shooting in general. But the people were extremely friendly and helpful and paired me up with a guy whole really stuck with me all day and made sure I understood everything and didn't DQ myself.

    It was a blast!!! I was definitely nervous but I was having too much fun to really notice. It was really different than I had imagined it would be. Prior to this I had really only shot at static targets. I did go through an IPSC class but there wasn’t really any stress like there is in a match. It was very surreal. It was kind of like looking through a keyhole once the timer sounded. I don’t remember how I was holding the gun, my stance, my breathing, trying to walk smoothly, any of the things I try to refine at the range, just the sights at the center of the keyhole. Is that strange or what? The stress made it a totally different experience.

    But much to my surprise I shot better than I ever did while group shooting. (except that darn Texas star). I hit mostly alphas and got 2nd place for something or other. Gotta love beginner’s luck!

    So anyway, I thought I’d share my experience and also thank everyone in the forum for answering all of my questions and all the good advice. I’ve never seen a sport with a nicer community!

  13. Others reference the "flats" of the fingers (between the 1st and 2nd knuckle) on the front strap.

    Flexmoney, that was the piece that pulled it all together for me. The M&P feels great anyway I hold it so there isn't "keyed" grip. Following all of the great advice from you all I was able to find the correct grip and I shot my M&P better than I ever have before!!!! I used to shoot high and left with pretty loose groups, but now it's much tighter and in the black.

    Thanks again for all your help!

  14. post-4907-1225816255_thumb.jpg

    post-4907-1225816260_thumb.jpg

    Thanks, Matt!

    These photos are great.

    Ya, you're right. Pictures are probably not the best way to figure this out.

    Not to belabor the point, but if you were to look from above at the grip with a clock overlaid on it, muzzle pointing at 12 o'clock, where are you applying pressure with your strong hand? 12 and 6? When I try to align everything perfectly strait with the bones in my arm if feels more like 12:30 and 6:30.

    Thanks again for your time!

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