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saibot

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Posts posted by saibot

  1. I have found the Lee dies to be an outstanding value across all my presses and calibers. I use them for 9mm, .223, and .308. For precision 308 I use a Lee collet neck sizer have found nothing better. I played with the RCBS X-sizer in .223 but still prefer the Lee. The one issue I had on my 650 was the Lee 9mm sizer didn't seem to have enough threads for the lock ring once it was in the tool head. Had to use a Dillon which works well but I have to stock the little C clips that tend to break every 5-10k cases sized. Any of you have the same problem with the Lee being too short?

    You can use the Dillon lock rings on the bottom of the die under the tool head. I Lee on my Dillons. Never a issue. You don't need a lot of threads to lock it down. Flip the Lee lock rings upside down.

    I never thought of that! Great idea. Thanks for the tip.

  2. I have found the Lee dies to be an outstanding value across all my presses and calibers. I use them for 9mm, .223, and .308. For precision 308 I use a Lee collet neck sizer have found nothing better. I played with the RCBS X-sizer in .223 but still prefer the Lee. The one issue I had on my 650 was the Lee 9mm sizer didn't seem to have enough threads for the lock ring once it was in the tool head. Had to use a Dillon which works well but I have to stock the little C clips that tend to break every 5-10k cases sized. Any of you have the same problem with the Lee being too short?

  3. For myself, I've found that time on gun is the most important factor, and fewer guns/rifles you train on the better you get. The fewer disciplines you participate in the better. I know this goes against everything we "want" to do since we all love shooting everything we can get our hands on, and the more types of matches we attend the more shooting we can do with all of the guns in the safe. But I feel that I am being diluted across them all. Time seems to be what makes you great. Split that time over various things, the less "great" you are.

    I had to pick a horse and stick with it, well sort of...I shoot USPSA, Practical Rifle, and Long Range Precision Rifle (tactical matches), so I'm not going to be good as I could be if I picked just one. I'm choosing fun over winning. But I did pick just one handgun and class, one rifle and optic, and one long gun and optic and I swear...I'm sticking with them.

    As a side note, we may all have something that may need to put in the next PDR, GADD, Gun Attention Deficit Disorder.

    :)

  4. Hey guys I just spent the weekend training with Seeklander for his YCHTP class and it was phenomenal. Mike really is a great instructor and we all got a ton out of the class. I put up a post about it as well as a bunch of photos if you all are interested. There are too many to try to post here so I'm just going to link to my post.

    Mike Seeklander Your Competition Handgun Training Program – Day 1

    I'll add day two when I get it finished.

  5. Thought you guys that were looking for score sheets might want to try this.

    Download the Pratciscore app to your phone, build matches for each session,build stage for each drill, use date for shooter name, edit strings for reps, tricky part is targets. I tried to "edit target" so that I had one target for each rep but that will not always work, easy to get around though.

    The really cool part is you get instant HF, number of A,B,C .., and total time for drill. I just started phase 2 and still have not gone back and calculated all that for phase 1 like I intended to after every session.

    Shot a match last weekend that used Practiscore and downloaded the app just to get familiar with it. Hats off to MGM Targets, STI Incorporated, and the developer NiftyBytes.

    This looks like a great way to manage this, but I installed it and started to setup the stages and it doesn't seem to add up correctly in my iPad. I tried to setup a stage with one target that requires 2 hits and has 20 strings. Should be 40 rds, right?

  6. Just FYI, I ordered a 021-035 Front Sight (.160 Tall x .125 Wide) and installed it. I'd suggest that the normal fitting process may not apply to this sight/pistol since the slide is zinc I believe. I filed down the front edge until it slid in by hand and secured it with red Loktite just to see if the positioning was where I wanted it. I had planned to remove it and drill/tap it just like the factory sight and probably will down the road, but the Loktite is holding better than expected. I'm sure the next time I get CLP in there it'll loosen up and I'll get it tapped and back in.

    If anyone is wondering why all of the extra steps, it's because I don't think the small amount of material for the front of the dovetail will withstand the formal fitting process and I didn't want to break my slide. YMMV.

  7. Just following up with you guys on my progress. Since this gun was earmarked for competition only and I had planned on doing some work on it anyway I thought I'd see what I could do with it before sending it back, and who knows, fix it myself. I bought the Apex CAEK and RAM and started with the slide. Replacing the striker spring and striker block with the USB fixed the gritty trigger problem strait away. I proceeded to install the rest of the kit and as everyone probably knows by now, the APEX kit/RAM really improves how the trigger feels. Light and crisp with a nice click for the reset.

    Thanks for all of the help you guys. Glad the gun is GTG without having to mail it away.

  8. Definitely get the book! I'm not a great shooter by any stretch of the imagination, but the skills that I've developed from this book are solid. Once in a while someone will comment on how fast my draw was or how fast I reload and get the gun running again. That's because of this book. Now if I could just stop screwing the stages I'd be set. :)

  9. I know you guys are right and I should call S&W and let them take care of it. I just hate sending things back and I typically take care of things myself but I think LPatterson is right. This one was built on a Friday...

    Thanks guys for the help.

  10. Thanks all for the info. After a little more investigation it appears to be the trigger bar where it contacts striker block, not the striker block itself. I put Pro slide on my FS9 and it was smooth and my FS9 slide on my Pro frame was gritty so it looks like it's the bar.

    Over all I have to say I'm a little disappointed with the Pro so far. I had high expectations on the basis of the other M&Ps I have and figured the Pro would be even better but that's not been the case. I took it out to the range today and it ran pretty poorly. Lots of FTF/FTE. The rear sight was barely on and was way off center. The slide release doesn't really work. I think the spring tension is really tight and as the day went on it started to run better. It may loosen up and run better but I'm shocked that this thing make it out of the factory. I hoping that it would be GTG but looks like I'll need to pony up some more money and get the CAEK to get what should have been from the Pro shop.

  11. Thanks for the info you guys! After closer inspection it does appear to be where the trigger bar contacts the striker block. Looks like some polishing is in order or just swapping it out with the Apex USB should take care of it.

    On a side note, I guess it's because this is a Pro, but the trigger, other than the gritty drag on the striker block, is much nicer than the other M&Ps that I have. Although it does have quite a bit of take up, the trigger is substantially lighter with a very short and perceivable reset. No RAM needed here.

    Thanks again!

  12. Well I finally got my new M&P Pro 9 today!! But unfortunately the trigger feels like there is gravel in it. I have the FS9 and the 9c and neither of them felt like this when I got them. Is this normal for the Pro? Does it smooth out? Anything I should do to it?

    Thanks guys!

  13. I bought the M&P22 pistol as a trainer for my other M&P center fire pistols and I want to get it as close as I can to identical. I have Dawson front sights on the others and would like to put them on the 22 but notices that the front sight is different in one regard. There is a set screw in it and I wonder if it's that way because of the 22's slide material is different. I wonder if I try to press a Dawson into the dovetail if it would damage the slide? Maybe it's done that way for just that reason?

    Anyone have any insight on this?

    Thanks

  14. I've got three of them. All tuned by WOA. One in a 3Gun build, one in a DCM gun and one in a plinker. They are all just a hair over 4 pounds with a 3lb first stage and a 1.1pound or so second stage. Love them as the 3Gun and plinker have several thousand rounds each fired on them and the DCM gun is a safe queen. :surprise:

    Are yours the NM version? My RRA's two stage breaks right at 3.25 lbs.

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