saibot
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Posts posted by saibot
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Just to add my 2 cents here, I personally like having the forward assist since I press check and occasionally the BCG doesn't go back into battery. Typically when the rifle has been run hard or at the end of a high round count match is when I see that on my "precision" barrel since the chamber is a little tighter than the NATO chrome lined ones I use. A quick nudge of the FA and I'm good to go.
As a system, I think you'd be hard pressed finding a more accurate AR than the LaRue, but that's if you're getting the whole rifle from them since it is somewhat hand fitted (among other things) to yield higher accuracy. That being said, if you're planning on cutting the barrel down, recrowning, (and hopefully stress relieving) that upper, I'd suggest foregoing the LaRue and getting the JP. Tight chambers, great barrels, the right size, etc.
Again, just my opinion. Hope it helps!
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I haven't tried the CFE 223 yet, but did recently try the TAC to see if it performed better than the AA2230 I've been using. For my purposes I'm sticking with AA2230. I did a post about some of the comparison if you're interested.
http://www.recoilsports.com/2012/09/why-you-have-to-use-a-chronograph-aa2230-vs-tac/
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One of the top shooters at our local rifle matches won the match with one a couple of years ago. A couple of months ago he and another guy wanted to see who'd win between his Mini 14 and the other guys AK, the mini won, but he didn't come close to winning the match. He won this month's match, but using a AR again. So anecdotally you can compete with it, but you'd probably do much better with a different platform.
/2 cents
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Those marks are from the bolt hitting side of the cartridge rather than the bottom of the case.
If it's happened with more than one magazine it's a gas system problem.
What's happening is that the bolt carrier group isn't going back far enough so it never gets a chance to get behind the cartridge.
New AR's often need more gas than they will once they've broken in and loosen up. If you haven't already, open up your gas port. Check it again after 1000 rounds.
Also be sure you're properly lube'd.
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PERCEPTION DOES NOT EQUAL REALITY!
It really is the strangest darn thing. My training buddies and I have all discovered this and validated it on the timer. The difference in a screaming out of control run through a stage and a controlled run where you take that extra little bit of time to get your AA's is almost identical on the timer, and most often faster since I didn't have to make up any missed shots. I also score higher with almost always A zone hits vs. C's and D's.
This was one of the biggest epiphanies I've had in shooting. It really just takes discipline not to go into hoser mode.
Try this. At your next match get a competition with you and your shooting buddy(s) and see who can hit the most A's for the match. Losser picks up lunch. I think you'll be surprised by the results!
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Dukduk-
As a rule of thumb, I always trim rifle brass and never trim pistol brass (the strait wall stuff).
When using my Dillon I use the scale just for setup and periodic QA tests. Every time I switch my tool head/change calibers I recheck. I have found that the first couple of throws are a little off, but it alway (and I mean always) goes right back to where it should be. Pretty amazing.
I wrote a series of posts on setting up the Ultimate Reloading Bench a while back and discussed the layout of your equipment ad-nauseum. Maybe they'll help you decide where you'd like your press mounted.
Part 1
http://www.recoilsports.com/2011/05/2011/02/ultimate-reloading-bench-series-part-1/
Part 2
http://www.recoilsports.com/2011/05/2011/02/ultimate-reloading-bench-series-part-2/
Part 3
http://www.recoilsports.com/2011/02/ultimate-reloading-bench-series-%E2%80%93-part-3/
Part 4
http://www.recoilsports.com/2011/05/ultimate-reloading-bench-series-part-4/
I hope all of this helps and enjoy the press!
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Deleted-
Sorry, wrong thread...
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Nice lower! I just built a new GenII Noveske with the same stock and grip.
What trigger did you use? I used the Geissle SSA-E (big fan of two stage triggers). I finally got a chance to use it for the first time yesterday and it worked great.
Let us know how yours runs!
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Great advice, g mac!
Don't let fast shooters influence your shooting. If you take the time to shoot all A's you'll do great. Move fast as you can between slowly shooting A's.
Practice, practice, practice. Live as much as you can, and ingrain your draws/reloads/etc with lots of dryfire (free!)
And to add one thing that I wish I had early on, Mike Seeklander's book, Your Competition Handgun Training Program.
Have fun and be safe!
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Triggers are really up to personal preference so I'd suggest you try a few before you decide. And even better, try a few of the SAME trigger because like others have mentioned, sometimes they're not always installed/manufactured as well as they could be.
And if you're set on the JP, you might consider sending them your lower for a custom install job. I cringe at the notion that someone could be using a rifle around me that sanded a little too much material off or their safety doesn't work perfectly. I'd get a drop in or leave it to the pros. The risk is just too high to be screwing around with your rifle's fire/safety controls if you're not trained to do so.
/soapbox
As others have already stated, the JP's are great. I compete with a couple of different ARs and one of them has the JP. It's blazingly fast. In fact I've heard other shooters behind me joking if I was going full auto. But at the end of the day I prefer a two stage trigger because I'm almost as fast with it, but I feel I'm more precise with a two stage. I have a RRA two stage trigger that's fantastic at 3.25 lbs, and my current favorite, my Geissele SSA-E. Great trigger (for me at least) and no adjustment screws to come loose like the JP. (not that they've ever come out. I red Loktite'd them and check them before each match)
At the end of the day, you really can't go wrong with any of the great choices you have.
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Just to add to the above, I'd be careful of how high your choice is on the low end. 8.5 is just way to high IMHO and those times when you're close, or having a hard time locating a target, or in very low light shooting when you need to back out to suck in the most light, you're going to wich you could have less magnification. 20x is a LOT of magnification and for precision matches is plenty regardless of the distance. I started out with a 10X fixed SS and it was plenty out to 1200 yards for me. I switched to a Leupold TMR 6.5-20 SFP and loved it. I recently switched again to the Leupold 6.5-20 FFP MIL/MIL H37 which works well for what I use it for and the best bang for the buck in optics. It's no S&B or Premiere but it's 90% at a fraction of the cost (and weight!). I wouldn't hesitate to buy it again.
Hope this helps!
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Welcome to the obsession!
Just a hoot isn't it?
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Just thought I'd add a little food for thought. I've been using a XL650 for a while and it's been a great machine. But since I load 223 on it I have to manually swage my brass to get rid of the primer pocket crimp. This takes a lot of extra time and in hindsight a 1050 would have been a better choice since it swages the brass as you load it whereas the 650 doesn't. I know it sounds trivial, but that little step equals HOURS of extra work for me. So you might just consider that when making your decision on your press model.
And just FYI, I posted a while back about my 223 brass processing system that streamlines the process of loading for 3Gun/PR:
http://www.recoilsports.com/2011/03/dramatically-reduce-your-case-prep-time/
I hope this helps! And I know this goes without saying, but do try to buy from Brian. He service is unparalleled and it helps support this site.
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I'm hoping to get out and try mine out. Got it in June and *still* haven't fired it!
Sheesh.
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On a budget, Savage. Then CZ. Have some coin to spend, Anschutz.
Just FYI, I have a Savage FV that I setup almost identical to my precision rifle as a trainer and it's truly amazing what the little rifle can do with a box of SK.
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Try different ammo before you jump to judgement. Perhaps you got some undersized bullets in that lot.
Pat
I did. As long as it is 55gr Barnaul steel it is "keyholeing"
Sounds like an ammo issue. Try some non steel bullets/cases and I bet your barrel will do just fine.
Pat
Like I say none steel jacked quality ammo does work fine, but the steel stuff use to shot ok. That is not the case anymore.
I think we understand that the steel stuff used to shoot fine, but in an effort to discover the root cause or your barrel issue we're suggesting to try something else, like a box of XM193. I think we're all interested in the results of that test, then we can move forward in the troubleshooting workflow.
Please shoot some XM193 and get back to us.
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I seem to shoot a lot of support side positions during matches so I have a Magpul BAD lever and a BADASS on all of my ARs now and I really think they are te way to go. I used to rub the frame with my index finger which bugged me and affected accuracy so the Hybrid lever fixed the problem for me. See the pics here to see what I'm talking about. This is a little review I did of the BADASS.
Try the combo out. It's a pretty cheap and easy upgrade to play with.
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I can't speak to the YHM barrel (although I do have a YHM handguard on one of my ARs) but my DPMS 3G1's 18" barrel is VERY accurate. It has a very tight chamber that I have to keep clean or I start to have problems with short stroking, but for a game gun, it's a fair trade off. I nylon bore brush it before each match and douse it with Slip2000. Never let's me down now that I know that.
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I agree, try new ammo. Also check that your crown hasn't accumulated a bunch of carbon build up under your comp/brake.
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Please don't use pistol powder in a rifle. <----Kaboom!
I've switched to XBR for all things precision and it is indeed a great powder. That being said, for 223/556 in the Practical Rifle/3Gun context I use AA2230. This is not an precision sport and I load my game ammo on a progressive (Dillon 650XL) press with the standard Dillon powder measure. The AA2230 is like little ball bearings and I find it meters better than the flake or extruded powders and as long as I keep the powder measure filled half or better it throws pretty consistently.
One word of advice, see if one of the many friendly Enos members in your area who is experience with loading rifle cartridges could help you get started. There are a few nuances with rifle cartridge loading that can make or break your success at the range and having someone who has already made those mistakes will save you many headaches (and rounds that won't eject).
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Wow, that's strange. I've never seen one die like that. The most common issues I've seen is with the old ones where under recoil they turn off. They have since redesigned the little "dog bone" part in the back to keep that from happening. They have an upgrade kit that should be no cost to fix that.
Glad to see you have it back and running!
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Personally I prefer better resolution than magnification. I use the ZD and find it works great for me. The great glass and crisp/bright reticle work well at distance for me and is much faster then a 6x scope when it comes to locating/transitions. I'm not shooting benchrest and trying to put each round in the same hole, I'm trying to hit a plate as fast as I can, so 4x is about the most I'd want to go.
At least for me, I've found this to be pretty contant for me across different platforms as well. I've done a fair amount of precision long range work with a quality fixed 10x. I prefer the extra field of view and the speed that comes along with that than the extra magnification. And interestingly enough, I've been doing some testing of different stages with an AR with an EOTech and an AR with the ZD and the times are generally quicker with the EOTech. Of course that depends on the stage. If there are a fair amount of close range (less than 100 yards) targets I make up for the extra time on the long range stuff and my total time is less at 1x. If there are a fair amount of small targets out past 250 I see the scales start to tip in favor of the ZD.
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Handloads all the way. More accurate AND cheaper.
It took a while to perfect my prepping/loading process, but now I have it down and make great ammo.
I've used factory in the past and had good results with AE XM193, AE Tactical223, and PMC Bronze. The PMC is hard to beat for inexpensive 223 factory ammo.
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any update about the program guys?
Almost to B class. Hopefully very soon.
AR-15 foregrip suggestions - Troy / MI / etc
in Rifle - Technical
Posted
For what it's worth, I've switched all of my AR's to the 12.5 JP handguard. It's textured so it doesn't move in my hand, round and smooth so it doesn't catch on props/barricades, and you can get little pieces of picatinny rail for the stuff you need to mount. On one of my AR's there is nothing at all on it and I have one that has a 2" section for my BUIS and a 3" section for my flashlight.