lowetlx

i just ordered a choate +5 tube from midway. it says designed as a 10round extension, the spring may work if not ill get one from brownells. i see what you mean on those dimples ill knock em down with a file. i figure i could put a couple dollars into a $5 dollar shot gun. Thanks for the help Andy

cool that was the info i was looking for, one question, when you say dimples what exactly do you mean? the little tangs inside the tube that hold the retainer. do you have to file them out so shells will clear? i would like to find a shorter barrel for it also as mine is the 28" version. the only thing i can think of call H&R to see if they will sell me a shorter one as i would like to keep the longer one too.

I was fortunate enough to win a H&R pardner 12gauge pump shot gun. It has a 5 round mag capacity. I havent been able to find a mag extension tube made for this gun. Does anyone know if one made for another brand will fit? It is a decent gun especially for the price and would like to get it to hold 8 or so. Thanks, Andy

Here is my springfield loaded .40, I had a little work done by springfield and just put on the miltac g10 grips.

Regardless of the sizing die you use, you must test to see if there is enough neck tension to prevent bullet setback. Load a round, measure it carefully, and then press the bullet tip of the loaded round against a flat surface. Not hard enough to deform the bullet, though. Remeasure the OAL to be sure the bullet has not moved back into the case. As has already been stated emphatically, ANY bullet setback can cause major issues with these loads. now i see what you mean by setback. originally i thought it was the round not going in the barrel far enough due to sizing of the case. thanks for the lesson

I dont think egw makes a die for the square deal b. i will get some glock brass and see if it resizes it properly.

guys that are running clays what is your recipe. how many grains needed and how long to make major with a 180 grain bullet?

I just purchased my second square deal b and setting it up in .40, i use clays for .45 already and not only like it have a large quantity at hand. I would like to use clays to load .40 i have read that the pressures to make major with clays in .40 can be high. Will i run into any saftey issues runing the factory springfield armory barrel in my singlestack. i do not want to risk an exsplosion?

excellent idea.

Thats the info i was looking for, I did get the lar-15. looks like it will be .223

Hey guys, I just purchased a RRA stripped lower. I plan to build my first rifle off of this. I have a few questions before i start to buy parts. Im interested in heavy metal 3 gun. This would require 308 or larger caliber. Am i correct or can i only use this lower for .223, or is there a 308 upper out there that this receiver will accept? I am not looking to spend a fortune. However I dont mind spending the money on quality parts that i will not outgrow. I already have the RRA 2 stage trigger and lower parts kit in mind. Also it seems alot of guys prefer the ACE or a M16 style fixed stock. Im looking for a great functional rifle and not too worried about having the coolest looking ar out there. I want it to fit me well and shoot the same. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, also if there is anything i should look out for as far as compatability it would deffinetly help a begginer. Thanks, Andy

I had a great time at this match also, Thanks to the Ro and schutlz who put on some very fun stages my favorite stage had to be the bridge also. not often your get elevated like that.

i may have to try these in my new .40 the mecgear that came with it stove piped on me today at the range

cool guys thanks for the info. Limited 10 may be a good place to start also as major/minor is available.

A friend of mine has an xd 45 service model 4". he is just getting into uspsa production division and is looking for a good belt mount holster as the one that came with the xd is subpar. what would be a good choice? if possible one that would allow use with the 4" as well as the tactical 5" as he plans to pick up a tactical down the road. any suggestions would be great. Thanks, Andy

I believe that the Novak cut would have to be welded up to then recut it for Bomars. Just a follow up question on the off topic question, can a gunsmith just move the bomar sights like in the case of the TRP in which the Bo-mar is way upfront. im sure they could move it up but that may adversly affect the sight radius(distance btween the sights, longer is better for accuracy). it would have to be pretty far up also. i installed the champion adjustable rear sight in my trp and seems to work great and no milling was needed or fitting. i tapped it right in.

my factory springfild trp mags have the rubber pads. i dont use the mags but i know they are a soft rubber

Well i called novaks today, i told them the blue wasnt what i expected and said i would like to buy a red rod. The gentlemen said he would sent me one of each of the colors to try out. I was quite satisfied as i was planning on buying the red one but he is sending them free of charge.

I just bought and installed a novak front sight on my 1911. Th sight fit great with no issues. however i ordered the blue fiber optic to be a little different than the red and green thats out there. I have to say that i am pretty dissapointed in the blue rod. It is almost clear and does not "light up" like the red ones ive seen. I will call novak this week and get a red fiber. I just thought i would share this if anyone is looking into that color.

did you set the height of the punch and cup. if its to high it could catch like that.

i need to do this also on my trp with a novak cut front dovetail.

Well i was at the range today testing out my first batch of reloads ever.(i was hoping that i would not have to worry about any being squbs) There was couple of younger guy/boys shooting a few stalls down and i noticed that after while they were messing with the gun on the bench had it in pieces. I looked back from time to time and they were messing with it for like 15 mins. I could see where i was that it was a 1911 of some sort so i walked down to see what was the trouble and the kid says that there was a bullet lodged in the barrel they were able to get it out but he was having trouble getting the slide reassembled. i walked the 2 through assembling the top end and I asked were he got the ammo. turns out it was a box of blazer brass. the shell looked suprisingly clean which leads me to believe there was little to no powder in the round. Ive heard of this but never actually seen it. I told the kids to keep the bullet as a good luck charm as he was lucky he didnt fire another round behind it.

umbrella mount mag pouches/tool pouches for you mag brush pens etc hooters golf bag towel to hang of the handle for quick access

well i received the square deal the end of last week i mounted it to the bench and cycled it and it seemed to work well. i received my spare parts kit and maintnence kit last night so today i went completely through the press. i noticed the ram was a little loose in the frame so i replaced the L shaped guides in the corners and it is much tighter now. i gave everything a good greasing and wow it runs so much smoother. just for kicks i replaced the decapping pin, the primer punch and spring, the primer roller and the plastic lever that rotates the shell plate. i also replaced the shell plate bolt. The flat blue plastic thing sandwiched between the tool head and frame was distorded under the decapping and resizing die so i replaced it too. i noticed that this is a pre 1998 press as it has the delrin bushings in the links but with some fresh grease they rotate smoothly. This actually worked out quite well as now i have an active knowledge of what makes this thing function and what to look for if something goes wrong. to me the press is like brand new now (had to buy a new low primer alarm as the old one was broken) and the maint kit along with new pickup tubes. i think i saved about 60 dollars over the cost of a new one plus shipping charges so i think i did well. Any thoughts?

Thanks for all the suggestions, i went ahead and ordered a shell plate bolt a spare parts kit and some extra primer tubes just in case i need any thing. i think i can get by without the strong mount i have a steel automotive shop bench and 2 very sturdy wood benches that i rebuild cylinder heads on that should work great. any other suggestions?