mpom
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Posts posted by mpom
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I trimmed the hammer spring a bit, around a quarter inch, as I was afraid of spring binding when compressed and not letting hammer cock, but you could start with full length. Don't remember where I got the spring, but its made from thicker wire than Mossberg, still .25" OD, which allows it to fit. Harder to compress when trigger housing is out, so have to assume it hits harder. Don't see any downside. Trigger pull has not significantly changed.
Yeah, if no slot then makes sense there is no clip. My JM has the slot, so I ASSumed they all do.
Mark
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Weak hammer spring can cause misfires. I replaced mine with a Extra Power Ruger 10/22 hammer spring, no more light hits/misfires.
The JM DOES have that very small cotter pin described in the video.
Mark
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Different Mark, but also running a 22" JM with a +2 Nordic extension. I cut down a Nordic spring to 8" beyond mag tube, no malfunctions. Just for grins I installed the factory spring, which sticks out quite a bit more but has thinner wire. Runs just fine and is significantly easier to load shells, so left it in place a couple of hundred shells ago. With a +7 or +8, I would follow Nuke's advice if factory spring does not work.
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TB- the lady at wolff said they have no plan to make xp hammer springs for the 930, not much demand. dont know how high on the chain of command she is. the spring manufacturer i hot linked is a good option as they use 0.042 wire, thicker than even wolf's xp, and springs are 2" long. downside is $25 minimum order plus shipping, but that $25 gets you a boatload of springs! if someone takes the risk and orders, they could easily triple their original investment, selling the springs for $1 each!
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would think you should look at the spring pushing bolt carrier into battery, which lives inside the stock, if problem is bolt out of battery.
can test theory to see if out of battery hammer drop could give a shallow indent by priming a fired hull and dropping hammer on it while pulling back on bolt handle to unlock bolt a bit. suspect there will be np primer indent. would try it but dont have a 209 primer.
could it be linked to ammo choice? are all the light hits same ammo?
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Got to talk to Wolff and their XP 1022 hammer spring is made from ,040 wire, so not much different than Mossberg stock, but is longer at 1.6" vs 1.3", so 23% longer, which should require more compression force at cocked hammer height.
Power Custom uses Wolff springs. SKU for Wolff single spring is 16801 for $7,50 or a 10 pack, SKU 16803 for $30. Hope this is a solution for some folks. Has worked for me. Wonder what hammer spring Mr JM runs, if not OEM.
Mark
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All this done with lower and upper separated. As above, make sure trigger is not binding in slot cut just above trigger guard. If good, then issue is likely to be "disconnector timing". A good explanation and remedies are in the JP Trigger Installation instructions, available on the Net, and apply to you mil spec components. An easy fix as long as you go slow. Stone the disconn just enough to release hammer onto trigger and stop. Too much clearance can lead to doubling when trigger is released. Could be a weak trigger return spring, so worth trying that out if you have a spare.
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heavier spring is what it took to get reliable ignition. will replace fp if/when needed, but had no choice, as unreliable shotgun with unmushroomed fp is a paperweight.also thought about a lighter fp spring but did not want to risk an ad. my new hammer spring is marginally stronger than oem, as trigger pull is not noticably heavier, yet cocking force is a bit heavier.
a light primer indent with a bolt in battery begs for a harder hit. its working so will have to accept possibility of shorter fp life, although dont really think this will happen if fp steel and heat treatment are decent.
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No joy on getting info from Wolff on wire diameter of XP 1022 hammer spring, as they are closed today. Imagine that, a 4 day weekend!
Will try again monday. Found out Power Custom also makes an XP hammer spring for ruger 1022. Of course they are closed too.
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I would cycle the bolt slowly with the gun upside down, and look at the shell stop and rim of cartridge to see if shell stop retracts enough to let rim pass as bolt is retracted fully. Would compare movement of shell stop between the Remington and Federal brass. Is the Remington rim larger/wider than the Federal? See if pushing shell stop away from rim allows rim to pass. Perhaps front of shell stop, facing rim is rough and hanging on to rim, or part of shell stop blocking rim is too long and will not get out of way of rim. Shortening a tiny bit and polishing the end of that hook might be needed. Looks like a MIM casting that needs a little smoothing. Fine sandpaper on a flat file or a cratex on a dremel applied carefully should not hurt it, and has not hurt mine. I put a radius into the hook of the stop to match the curve of a shell rim. If section of shell stop contacting rim is smooth and flat with no burrs and mag spring not overly powerful, cannot understand how the Remington brass is getting dented, unless its unusually soft. Possible its ammo related, but I have cycled my dummy Brownell rounds dozens of times each without any issues, and ejected live ammo shows no signs of denting the rim.
Its possible the vibrations and recoil induced by live fire may allow proper feeding from the mag tube, but yes, the shotgun should still be capable of hand cycling, if only to unload it.
After all that, since Federal ammo has no issues even after 30 cycles, simplest thing is to stay away from the flavor of Remington that is having issues.
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have you tried running the oem mag tube spring?
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If not going into battery, then there should not be a firing pin indentation in primer, correct?
When I had my misfires I clearly had indents in primers.
I have to apologize for sending people on a wild goose chase, looking for a stronger hammer spring at local hardware stores. Yes, I did get some springs there but for a different project. Believe the stronger spring I use which eliminated the misfires came from my collection of various gun related springs. Looking the stash over, 1911 and Hi Power main springs are too large in diameter, but Ruger 1022 hammer spring is a perfect fit at .25" OD. According to my caliper the Mossberg spring wire diameter is .043" and my spare 1022 spring is .044", and a bit longer at 1.5" vs 1.3" for the Mossberg. Looked at aftermarket Extra Power Ruger 1022 hammer springs and Wolff makes one, SKU #166803, for around $7.50. A 10 pack goes for $30, so pretty reasonable if this works. Wolff is currently closed so could not ask their tech dept what wire dia. they use in the EP one.
Again, sorry for the misinformation and hope this new info is useful
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LTS, sounds like the replacement spring @ .032" is not as strong as the factory, and may not supply sufficient force to hammer, even if longer.
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400 round match?
Where do you get your ammo from, as I would like to score some!
Hope a bit longer spring does the trick.
Would make sure the firing pin is clean and moves freely.
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Unfortunately I do not have the part # of the spring I picked up at a local hardware store. Yes, the cocking indicator fits inside the spring.
I would bring the old spring with you when looking for a replacement, and would look check out other HW stores, maybe True Value?
If necessary, can order something from internet, such as http://www.springsfast.com/part_detail_compression.php?part=4039&PHPSESSID=70e45b383b04db2540d5b00ae420637b
Yes, you have to buy a minimum of 6, but at $.42 each, your can spread the love!
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the shell stop looks like a casting, with none to minimal machining, so pretty rough. polished mine as well for smoother function, also broke edge on side facing thumb pushing shells in, and corners. matches the welded up lifter in being digit friendly!
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Before I changed out the spring I tried "preloading" the existing spring with a couple of small washers. I could only stuff one, as 2 would cause spring bind. Measured the spring plus one washer, about a 1/16 thick and trimmed new spring.
Can always just trim longer, say 1/8" or more and modify as needed till you can cock hammer, cut off a bit more for insurance and call it good. Went with new spring because adding spring compression with washer did not solve problem of misfires.
Nice thing is trigger pull did not change significantly with new spring; still about 4.5 lbs.
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Brain fart! Meant to say hammer spring!
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Had issue similar to OP; replaced hammer spring with one I found at Ace Hardware, trimmed to max length and no failure to ignite since, at least 300 rounds. Would be nice if Wolff made a stronger spring, but the Ace spring is going strong so far. Believe wire diameter is a bit larger. A shame Mossberg did not get this right, but an easy fix.
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Is the shell rim which is 1/8" inside tube not actually stopped by the shell stop?
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NOT a gun guru, but have my opinions. Your original bolt and barrel from BCM most likely had the headspace checked during assembly. Sounds like this is not something you have done with the new components. You are probably OK, but to be sure, you can have a reputable gunsmith check the headspace, or get the gauges and do it yourself. If you have the time and want the education, check out M4Carbine.net and search under checking headspace.
Would think you are not under minimum HS or you would not be able to chamber factory ammo as easily as you describe.
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Damn that sucker is hard! Wonder if that is a sign the internal parts are also made to last! Could try annealing it; heat to dull red and allow to cool slowly. No expert here, but that might soften it a bit. Will probably ruin the blue/black finish. Not a problem if its covered up by large piece of plastic.
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Don't have a range that will allow me to fire the drill, so next best thing- set up one third size targets at fifteen feet, and dry fired the drill to various par times. Used a laser device to check poi. Started out at about 8 seconds and after about 20 minutes, was down to around 6.5 to 7 with an occasional C. Definitely noticed that moving the eyes to the next target was a limiting factor in overall speed. On the faster runs it seemed as if the gun wan not actually stopping on each target, but just slowing down for the shot while still moving. Weird, as I have never experienced this in live fire.
Thanks all,
Mark
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thanks. will leave the lm choke in place for sat match which has a 75 yard slug target. may experiment with various chokes to see if accuracy varies. with a single front bead i need all the accuracy i can get! may place a drop of paint on rib for a mid rib reference.
Which follower for a JM930?
in Shotgun - Technical
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Tried the Nordic, but have had issues just hand cycling, so just polished the snot out of the factory one and placed it back in. Did not take the time to try and diagnose problem, just went with reliability for now.
Delrin sounds good, but $14 shipping?
Mark