mpom
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Posts posted by mpom
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Straight on photos can be deceiving, but this thing looks huge and heavy. Anyone have dimensions and weight? Could the weight, if its high, be a major factor in its effectiveness?
Thanks,
Mark
I weighed one on a postal scale awhile back and recall that my dirty, powder fouled brake weighed in at just under 4oz.
Well, I called Seekins and Michelle weighed one; 4.5 oz and approx 2.5" long, adds 2.25" to OAL.
Maybe her scale needs calibration
Sounds great for a competition comp, but will stick with my Battle Comp for now, as my sole carbine is also slated for HD, should the need arise.
Ditto for heads up, P.E.
Mark
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Straight on photos can be deceiving, but this thing looks huge and heavy. Anyone have dimensions and weight? Could the weight, if its high, be a major factor in its effectiveness?
Thanks,
Mark
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Believe my truglo 950 front fo rod is .060. No expert, but bead is much further from eye than front sight on a pistol, so relative size on a target may be similar.
Mark
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I just picked up a used 930SPX. Since the place I shoot my matches limits tube capacity at 8 I would like to add the ability to add one more round. What would be the best way to do this?
Thnks
Nordic makes extra long mag tube caps, one is 3/4" and the other 1.5" longer than standard cap. Check their site. I ordered the XXL one, even though some have posted that the XL allowed an extra round in the tube.
You need to make sure the treads are compatible, unless you already have a Nordic extended mag tube.
Mark
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Good to know, thanks.
In another thread, a few people are praising the ranier select barrel. Guaranteed moa capable and retails at less than $200. Not available in 18" rifle gas configuration so may not be suitable for Pat's build.
Mark
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Isn't the stainless bcm barrel a criterion? How/where else can they be obtained?
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Multiple post.
Mark
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My 930 has developed a serious "failure of round to be released from the feed tube" issue. It was fine stock, but as soon as I put the 9 round tube on it problems started. It would not load a round onto the lifter with hand cycling if the tube was loaded past 4 rounds. This was been a common issue that others have seen. But now that issue has propagated into firing actual rounds. I now have problems with the gun locking back the bolt like it's empty when the tube is still full. And then when you hit the bolt release it dumps rounds out the bottom.
I feel like it's an issue with the mechanics of the parts which release the round from the tube. It stems from the issue of not loading with a full tube while hand cycling. I think I just need to get in a polish and clean up the interacting surfaces of all those mechanisms. Also sounds like I should clean my piston, which has never been done.
What is your Nordic spring length? Mine is 35-1/2". Has worked like a champ, thousands of rounds over 2 years. Although mine is not the "JM" (jam-o-Matic? LOL) it's with the 24" non-ported barrel I ordered.
Shouldn't the spring length depend on the mag tube length? Nordic told me they recommend a minimum of 12" of spring sticking out of tube for reliable function. Seems like a lot, as I am running a Wolff spring cut to 9" beyond end of tube, and the Wolff is perceptibly less stiff than the Nordic I purchased as backup. 930JM feeds fine with the shortened Wolff, and is super easy to load, easier than uncut factory spring. Anyone running their Nordic shorter than 12" with reliable function?
Did not mean to sidetrack discussion.
Mark
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Look at Warpspeed's posting; Wright's in Illinois.
Mark
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Cut the mag spring to 8" longer. The ismi springs are stronger than factory and shell release won't work. That is why I'm shooting a V.M.
Do you mean sticking out of mag tube 8" with cap off?
My Nordic spring feels stronger than Wolff, and wire is about .002" thicker.
Thanks,
Mark
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some have used various on the hits on the 50 plus 930 pages.
I will hit the range again with the .25 inch stock drop and see where I hit.
The two options for sights I am looking hardest at are:
anyone that has handled both would appreciate your insight.
I use the TG950 front bead by tru glo.
Mark
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Do a search on higher front sight for jm930. Some solutions have been suggested. I forget which brand/model i installed, but its in the thread. Not sure i would want a rear sight; while useful for slugs it is likely to slow down shooting of shot shells, but being a newbie, i could well be wrong
Mark
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I cratexed the fork to get rid of sharp edges and points, but it can still trap my thumb even if it doesn't cause bleeding.
Besides the minor cost, am concerned about possibility of creating malfunctions with the mod, as has been reported on the forums.
First time my thumb gets injured in a match, off goes the carrier to crum.
Villamor's point is well taken, as i found out.
Mark
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Also curious.
Wolff is described as extra strength at Brownell's.
Mark
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Typically comp rifles comform to rules and use precise, adjustable sights hat can cost as much as the rifle. If you modify a sporting rifle by adding sights, proper stock etc, you could easily spend more than you need to. Suggest you first find a club that shoots rimfire competition, see what is used, and go from there.
Mark
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Hi folks,
What's the best three 22LR rifles suitable for 50m competition shooting?
I searched Amazon & Google and they did not come up with much useful results. USA Shooting seem to be more focused on air rifles.
Any thots?
Thanks!
Try rimfirecentral.com
Mark
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Was the bolt locked back when you dropped the mag and did it fire when bolt went forward? A firing pin stuck forward can do that. If bolt was closed when discharge occured and trigger not touched, would think the hammer slipped off the trigger. If its the jp fcg you have, maybe some wear has decreased engagement, and simply needs to be adjusted.
Mark
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Thanks.
I have been using it as well. Hope it works as well as many claim. Does smell good, and non toxic as well.
Mark
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Chuck,
Was it as "blasty" to the shooter or nearby shooters/ROs as other capable comps?
Perhaps the No Talon will become the New Hottness...
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"Frog Lube"... I just wipe off the buildup on my 930's piston and rings.... I'm very sceptical by nature, but this stuff works. The comp on my 9mm open 2011 is like new. I couldn't believe the crud that came off it (It did take some work the 1st. time but now it's a cleanup with a "Q" tip).
Did you first clean with something else, use alcohol, then applied FG the first time, then noticed it was easy to clean, or did you use FG as the cleaner?
Thanks,
MP
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Fiocchi 7/8 oz Reduced Recoil Slugs...you will be happy again.
Hints on where to find some? Every online place I've looked at is backordered....
Just ordered 5 boxes from Graf &Sons.
Mark
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Well I got the rear shell stop finally and put it in today. Started out good enough but then started locking up again....the carrier is getting stuck on the shell stop,looked at the carrier and its slightly bent again so I tried to straighten it out. I fire some slugs and wouldn't cycle correctly so Iam sending it to Triangle Shooting Sports. Anyone else send theirs out? Fingers crossed. Their going to fix the 8 inch high @ 50 yards too.
When you get it fixed, am interested in the details; was shooting high corrected with higher front bead, bending barrel, increasing butstock drop?
I went with taller bead, but it looks funky compared to other SGs.
Thanks,
Mark
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Since the Browning semi auto is very similar to the Winchester, as is the FNH, perhaps the other companies may offer better help than Winchester.
Surprised that Winchester sent the wrong spring. Did they send the right extractor?
Mark
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Does anyone have a link to take-down instructions for the trigger section on the 930? Specifically I have seen a few posts where all I need to send to C-Rum is the shell lifter, not the whole trigger assembly. I have never taken one down to that extent and do not want to do it by trial and error. That reminds me I need to contact C-Rum to see what the lead time is and get on his schedule.
There are 2 pins holding the trigger group in place. Cock hammer, place on safe, close bolt. Knock out pins, pull out trigger group. Move carrier up and down, and you will see it pivots on a pin. Pay attention to spring and arm that
apply pressure to carrier. Simply pull out pivot pin and store spring and arm. Send off carrier... If you are concerned you might forget how to reassemble, take a phone picture of assembly with spring in place.
Mark
Buffer assistance with Stag 3G build
in Rifle - Technical
Posted
I would recommend you research the VLTOR A5 receiver extension and buffer system. Its designed to get the benefits of a rifle spring and buffer in a smaller package. RE is sized between a carbine and rifle in length and it uses a standard rifle spring and a proprietary buffer. I like mine. Lots of good info about that system on M4Carbine.net. No need to fine tune buffer weights, supposedly more reliable and softer shooting than carbine RE and buffers. Works with collapsible stocks, unlike rifle RE.
Mark