DS-10-SPEED

I agree, who cares about trophies, the only thing I care about is the print out of all the shooters in my division to see where I stand. As for prizes, I would suggest that prizes only be given if a certain set number of participants for that division has been reached, say 10 or more. Since I am doing less and less center fire shooting because of shoulder arthritis (I can't do holster draw any more) I won't be doing Steel Challenge any more unless I can do .22 revolver divisions because it's the only gun I shoot these days. I really don't like being put together with super fast semi-auto guys.

You know I want divisions for .22 revolvers. The Atlanta Conservation Club has been doing it for a while.

Thanks.

I had a feeling it's priceless.

What's the value of 627-3 nowadays? It's in excellent condition, used very little.

Thanks AZ, I like to use a shot shell belt pouch with 2 pockets. I can easily fit 10 loaded speedloaders in one side and dump the empty loaders and ammo in the other.

I wish that all SCSA matches were equal in divisions, I have competed in the Indiana State SCSA match and they have added divisions years ago for Rimfire Revolver Iron and Rimfire Revolver Optic, other states do it only for centerfire, why not rimfire? The Michigan State SCSA match last year put me in the same division as the Semi-autos against super fast guys, it's too bad things are not equal.

That is the Raptor mount, it sits lower and is not as wide as the Allchin mount.

Thanks for the input guys, a friend gave me an old Safariland holster that works OK. It is cloth lined and doesn't cause any damage to the finish. I was promoted to "Super Senior" division this year and I don't think any kind of fast holster is going to help me much. I got the gun ready to go but not so much my aging joints, I will do SCSA only, can't do run and gun stuff. My V-Comp will still see more safe time than range time.

Thanks for the info, I'll check them out.

What is the recommended holster for steel challenge for my V-Comp? Also which holster has the best chance of not destroying the finish of a satin finish gun? My previous experience with a plastic holster ruined the finish on my 642 in one day. Is there a leather recommendation?

Moderator, you're right to nip this in the bud but you need to watch what you say also.

I will dry fire mine a few times after cleaning or lubing just to check out the action but not 100's of times. I have 3 617's and never had any dinged cylinders. I saw a thread somewhere that Uberti has a 12 shot single action revolver that has a milled spot where the firing pin would hit, so it looks like a dinged cylinder is nothing to be concerned about. Just remove the burr. They must use an extended firing pin.

I cleaned it with a spiral brush real good and shot at my local pin shoot last night, it no longer binds. I'm good to go with the new cylinder.

I just got my 617-2 back today from S&W repair. I wore out the cylinder and latch after many thousands of rounds in DA speed shooting, the lock up was getting really loose and spitting lead. They installed a new cylinder and latch, also cut the forcing cone. Guess what? I now have binding cases after fired! I ran 30 rounds through it and had to push the extractor on the shooting bench each time. I'll try it a few more times with cleaning between shoots but I may need to get a reamer.

I have three 617's and generally never have sticking problems. The only time was with a bad box Winchester ammo, I had a hard time putting them in and out. I use CCI, Federal and Remington mostly.

I haven't shot an SCSA state championship match since 2013, I hope to get a chance this year if things fall in place. Here are my dot setups for this year.

I use S&W 617's most of the time for SCSA. I have also used a Ruger MKII once. This year I hope to try the dot class with my 4" S&W 617 and a Ruger GP100, both with Burris FF3 8MOA dots.

Thanks, I'll look into it.

I decided to make this GP100 into another dot gun since I didn't like the sights that came on it. I had to make my own mount because I couldn't find one to fit a Burris FF3 the way I wanted.

I did some measuring and here is what I have. Head space (with no ammo): .011" max (cylinder pushed forward) .007" min (cylinder pushed back) CCI ammo sticks up about .001" (so max head space would be .010") Federal ammo mostly flush to -.001" (so max head space would be .011" to .012") Browning/Win ammo mostly -.002" (so max head space would be .013") The recess in the cylinder for the cartridge rim is .039" +/- .0005". The current firing pin sticks out about: .030" with the transfer bar flush .043" max travel if forced all the way in with a pin. The minimum ammo dents could be .017" to .020": .030" - .010" = .020" .030" - .013" = .017" So if I take worst case right now (.0385" + .007" - .043" = .0025") I have .0025" clearance before I could damage the cylinder if dry fired. Not much room for extending the firing pin or shimming the cylinder unless I have a longer firing pin with a thicker shoulder also to limit over travel (or just never dry fire). If I new pin could be made with .005" added to the length and .005" added to the shoulder thickness it might work better and still not hit the cylinder if dry fired. A new firing pin made that way would stick out about: .035" with the transfer bar flush .043" max travel if forced all the way in with a pin. Anyway, It might not be worth the trouble and I should be happy having it work as good as it is. Thanks for your help.

I've never checked for that before, how is that done? Do you add shims to the cylinder if the head space is too big? Maybe a dumb question but since this is my first Ruger DA I think I should get at least one more. Wouldn't the fact that it works fine with a 14lb spring and 5 brands of ammo from thick rimmed CCI to thin rimmed Winchester and getting a good rim indent say that the head space is good and the firing pin is long enough?

Thanks for the input but that particular firing pin is not for the new screw in retainer, that is what I have. I don't see one listed there for mine. Maybe someone else has one.

I have 3 617's and love using them in speed shooting sports, they have actions that are smooth and I have them set with moderate trigger pulls. I don't have a weak semi-auto trigger finger, I'm sure partly due to shooting DA revolvers for 40 years. For me a moderate trigger pull helps me keep the front sight on target, too light it's too easy to move off target and too strong it wiggles from finger tension. My buddy bought a GP100 10 shot .22 and I made speed loaders for it. I finally decided to get one myself to see if it could be usable for pin shooting, NSSF and SCSA sports. As with any new .22 revolver the trigger pull is tough, really tough on the Ruger. I polished the action, added shims to prevent the hammer and trigger from rubbing on the frame. To get reliability with several brands of ammo I had to modify the firing pin (it came with a large flat pointed pin) and I milled 0.006" from the hammer stop to increase pin travel (can' t go any more without causing reset issues with a pinched transfer bar). I also had to file and polish a poorly machined ratchet on the cylinder that was causing 4 of the 10 to be very rough at the end of the DA pull causing slow spit times on those 4. It's now pretty decent and I have it down to a 14lb hammer spring and an 8lb trigger return spring. A 13lb hammer spring feels really good (closer to my 617's) but I have 50% misfires. The only thing I see left is the massive heavy slow hammer and the energy robbing transfer bar. Has anyone tried the lighten the hammer and or transfer bar on a GP to increase firing pin speed? I only want to get a 1lb reduction, I like the 13lb hammer spring but can't use it. I shot a 10 shot string for trigger speed comparison and it seems pretty smooth, just not as light as I want.