Filishooter
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Posts posted by Filishooter
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If I understand correctly, if moving to the right, the first step is to pull your left leg back under your body
That's the opposite of what I'm saying. If moving to the right, you kick your left leg out, plant it, and push off of it.
I can see how this is hard to visualize. Even while I was watching the video, I had a hard time understanding it. My apologies for not having a video clip of it. Watching Gabe Suarez do it showed me just how quickly someone could get moving from a stationary position. I like this technique, and I'd like to share it with you guys.
With my new camera, I have the capability of creating a youtube video. When I get a chance, I'll see if I can tape myself doing this and post a youtube link. That should clear things up.
Hey, were both talking about the same thing (Pekiti-footwork) but in different applications. We actually learn what Mr. Suerez talks about as the second phase of the footwork. In the one I am describing imagine a baseball diamond. You have the right foot on home base and the left foot on 3rd. We bring the left foot back to home while leaving our hips facing 3rd and the right foot kicks out to first, when the left foot touches down we twist into the movement clockwise. We use this to get off line quickly (defensive). If we continue the footwork drill we go into what you are describing! We launched toward first in our first movement our right foot touches down on first, our weight compresses on the right leg and loads up to spring towards 2nd base. There is still a twisting motion counter clockwise towards the line of movement. This would be our attacking angle into the opponent (offensive). Put them together and they are one side of the diamond pattern footwork. The footwork drill continues to include a forward replacement step and push-off but thats beyond this discussion!
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I cannot visualize this at all. Can someone please post a video or picture of this technique?
Kind of like learning Karate by video...without the video.
I'll try to take some this weekend.
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If you are starting from this position, can you just begin with the left foot in the correct position then quickly shift weight to the left foot and begin the move with the right foot?
You can, but you won't have the explosive take-off action. What makes it work is the coiling action of the leg and the hip twist in the direction of movement (I actually made a mistake in explaining the movement - the left leg would come back in a semi-clockwise motion, foot pointing slightly to the left leg coiled). What I mean by coiled is that its not only compressed downward like a spring but also has twisting energy. Imagine you are putting out a cigarette with your foot. but instead of releasing the energy its directed from the twist of the ankle, through the knee and into the hip.
What you are explaining would be a lunge step (like in fencing) unweight the lead leg and pushoff with the rear. And its not a crossover step, sometime we call it a replacement step as the take off leg is replacing the location of other leg which has unweighted and started in the direction of travel. Its more similar to a drop step than a crossover.
As I mentioned I do use it in competition but only when the situation presents itself. If you load the take-off leg in the opposite direction of travel then some other footwork may be faster as the quick takeoff is offset by the economy of motion of just going the direction you want to go. Its a rather violent move so if you are wanting to fire moving out of position while doing it your hits will suffer. Likewise it may be difficult to do a reload in the first few steps doing the take-off. Also as you mentioned if your not in position to get a solid take-off then it would be a waste of time to setup to do it. I'm a lefty and I probably use it most shooting around a right side barracade or port when I neeed to reverse directions and head back the other way. Pulling the right foot back to go left is in the direction I want to go.
The Pekiti takeoff is nice technique but its not always the best method. I already had the technique from 20 years of Filipino Martial Arts practice so its natural for me. It wuold be up to you if you think its worth investing time in to learn.
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Put it on a timer.
The clock knows all truth in movement.
The problem with "putting it on a timer" is that someone not trained in how to do that technique will quickly dismiss it. If you don't do it correctly it WILL be slower than a technique you are already doing.
It would be better to say "if you are interested in seeing if it works for you, learn it, practice it, then put it on a timer." Not many people will invest the time before putting to the clock.
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For all I know, Gabe stole this move from us!! I just thought it was worth mentioning.
Just for reference, the "Pekiti Take-off" is from Pekiti-Tirsia Kali, a form of Filipino Martial Arts headed by Tuhon Leo Gaji. I know Suerez has been training with Mark Denny of the Dog Brothers Martial Arts who is an instructor under Gaji so that may be where he got it from as opposed to stealing it from you.
I teach this technique in my Filipino Martial Arts class and I do use it in competition when appropriate. You essentially load one leg with torsional plyometric energy and explode off of it. This is different from the "drop-push" method, energy is generated primarily from the twisting action of the leg and hips as opposed to muscular contraction. Its like putting your legs and hips into a punch only its directed towards movement.
Here is a little clearer explanation. If you have a slight left foot forward lead and you want to move right. you draw you left foot back under the weight of your body in a slight counter clockwise motion while at the same time you unweight you right foot. Your left leg is loaded up and you snap your hips towards the direction you want to go. Sounds like a lot but all this happens very quickly. If done properly you can get up to your full running speed in a few steps.
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Go to the source, S&W customer service. Chances are they send one out no charge.
I lost my striker safety plunger today, where can I get one, they are in the schematic at brownells but there isnt a line item for them. Any help is appreciated -
I'm using a 10.5" barrel AR in 9mm. Makes minor rifle easy. If you use an optic then site radius doesn't matter. That being said, my local range only goes out to 70 yards max and I'd shoot my regular AR if were anything over 100 yards. But for the close tight stuff it works great!
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Nice Data, thanks for Posting.
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How is the quality on the newer mags? I have about 10 of the older blued mags that work great but if I don't wipe them down after every match a might get spots of rust. It looks like the new ones are coated with something different. Was that for better corrosion resistance? Is the steel underneath the same quality as the older mags?
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I just got off the phone with the guy that made those. They were discontinued.
Anybody got a pair of those sitting on a shelf? Used, or new...makes no difference. He needs them for a Para P-16.
Thanks so much.
I have some thats on a gun I'm not shooting anymore. I once had the notion of setting my gun up for Limited 10 but I'm staying in Production for now. I probably lost the installation screws though, I didn't want to drill and tap my frame and its held on securely enough with grip tape. I also had to trim down the tops a little to fit my ambi-safety. I'd be willing to trade these for a set of used (but still decent) factory Para P14 grips. (If your buddy is taking his grips off to put these on).
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Guncraft. http://www.practicalshooting.com/g.html used to carry them. I called them about 4 years ago and they gave me the number of the guy making them so I could contact him direct. I don't have that number anymore but they can give you his contact info. I do remember he was in Florida.
Links about Grip fillers below (search!)
http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...amp;hl=guncraft
http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...amp;hl=guncraft
http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?...amp;hl=guncraft
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I was just going buy S&W's published weights. Actual data from a scale would tell more. That's interesting that the slide on 9L is only .3 oz more than the standard! They must have really cut some weight from the slide to do that.
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Closest thing we have done are 2 stage side-matches during the Classifier. We've ran 4 bays of Classifiers and have 2 bays setup for the side match, just something fun. As the shooters finished there business with the Classifier they come and shoot the side-match which is optional and scored separate. We are doing the same thing with the Postal Match just to up the round count and to give shooters the opportunity to throw more lead downrange.
We have also run portions of the Classifier as a stage, but the scores only counted toward the match, not the Classifier.
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Sorry for the confusion. I never fired the gun with it's factory sights. I removed the Warren sights from my old M&P (with a fiber front) and installed them on my 9L and had the problem of extreme high impact at 25yds.
Thanks for clearing that up. I'm going to try the factory front sight with the Warren rear and see where I'm hitting before I order from Kenny then.
I've been trying to decide between the Pro or 9L. The more I think about it, the 9L like yours is the way to go for me. I'm changing the sights and doing a trigger job anyways. Looking at the weights, the 9L 25.2 oz and the Pro is 26 oz. most likely due to the different profile muzzle. I'm currently using a standard 4.25" M&P (24 oz) for IDPA and still plan to use it. The 9L would be for Production. I'm thinking the 9L being a little lighter in the nose might feel closer to my current gun. In reality the difference is so slight I probably won't be able to tell!
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Outside of a trigger job, some grip tape (or stippling) changing to better sights of your preference, maybe a tungsten guide rod, and a recoil spring tuned to your loads, not much needs to be done (or can be done because of the rules) to make it competitive in Production. Speaking of which, I was wondering if the basepads from the M&P Compact used on my fullsize gun would be legal for Production. I'm not real big and 4 or 5 mags on the belt gets a little crowded, smaller basepads would help.
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what is the going price for the 9 pro?
When they had them in stock they were $599 shipped from Budsgunshop.com (+ transer to FFL).
Local dealer has a 9L for $540 (tax but no transfer fee) and I don't have to wait so I may go that rout.
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Standard size M&P have .160" tall front sights
M&P9Ls have .180" tall front sights
gotM4,
I posted a question on the M&P forums on this, but...
With your Warren rear sight and standard .180 front where was the gun hitting? If it was slightly high (2"-3") I think I'd prefer it that way over POA=POI at 25 yards that you were able to achieve with the .195 front/Warren rear combo. I also read that you tried it with a Warren front .160 and it was 8" high at 25 yards. On my standard gun with a .160 front FO the Warren rear made it hit just slightly higher than the factory rear (which I prefer).
Thanks.
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I am working on a Pro for a friend of mine right now.
The trigger comes in at just under 5 pounds with lots of creep. Yes, they do a basic trigger job, but no where near enough. You still have to work on the sear quite a bit to get a good trigger. There is still way too much engagement with the sear and the slope is still very positive, as in more than 90 degrees.
Do you think it would be better to start the trigger job with a standard sear vs working on the machined sear in the Pro?
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Just thought I'd let you guys know I made Master. 97.something by the skin of my teeth but I made it!
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First time I EVER posted a Master level score in the IDPA Classifier was IN THE RAIN last night! Not just sprinkling but pouring. My timer got waterlogged and stopped working wet. Several mental things I noticed. I accepted that I was going to get wet and once I did that, I didn't care if I was getting wet because I couldn't get any wetter! I also noticed that I really had to pay attention to what was going on to even see the target, let alone the front sight. It was dark, visibility was poor and my glasses were fogged up. I relate it to being more attentive while driving in a bad rainstorm, you're on high alert. There was a sense of urgency...even though I didn't care that I was wet, I wanted to get things done so I could go home. Might have been one of those "tricks of the day" working for me.
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I want to get the least expensive magazine extension out there.
Got my Remington 20 gauge tube at Choate for around $40, not sure if they still make them though. You get what you pay for though, nowhere near as nice as the Nordic but it works.
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I was on the verge of getting Lasik but after doing some research and talking to my doctor I decided against it because of 2 issues.
1. Presbyopia happens around 40 and I'm 41. Basically the eyes stiffen as we get older so they don't change focus near to far as well.
2. I'm nearsighted and my correction is only - 1.25. I can already see great closeup WITHOUT correction.
Doc said being slightly nearsighted is an advantage when Presbyopia hits as little or no correction is needed to see up close. If I got Lasik, it will correct for my nearsightedness, making my vision normal but I'll most likely need reading glasses afterwards to see up close due to the Presbyopia. So I decided using no correction in my shooting eye and correction in my non-shooting eye (as I'm doing right now) is better for me than spending 2k to better see the target then needing glasses to see the front sight!
I'm using Oakley Flak Jackets Rx which are working great. They are stylish enough for everyday wear (as opposed to some goofy looking dedicated prescription shooting glasses I've had in the past). I wear them with correction for both eyes for daily use and take them off when I get to work to use the computer. I can change out one side to a non-corrective lens for shooting and I can change them both to non-corrective if I decide to wear contacts. I also use a darker tint in my non-shooting eye when I shoot in bright sunlight because I have an injury where my pupil is diolated. The ability to mix and match the Rx and tints are a big benefit compared to one fixed Rx lens like the M-Frame. It cost more, but I use them for everything.
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I never understood why some people get upset if some one earns Master on the classifier but doesnt do well at matches. Is it some kinda elitist club I dont know about? I dont see how my qualifying higher than my match ability could ever effect someone else.
I have a lifelong history in Martial Arts so I compare a Master Classification with a blackbelt. I have a friend who's kid just got his blackbelt in TaeKwonDo, he feels great and is proud of the accomplishment. He is a very humble kid who worked very hard and I'm sure he'll do well in his journey. In contrast I've come across other new blackbelts that were complete jerks. If you want to talk about "Elitist" there is nothing worse than someone who thinks they have "arrived" and can't back it up.
I have respect for anyone who shoots well enough to classify as Master as that is an accomplishment. If that Master is getting beat by Expert shooters than I still have respect for what he/she accomplished and realize that getting a Master class IS like getting a blackbelt, its just the beginning. If that person had the skill to make Master in the classifier with a little more work it should translate into better match performance and should just be a matter of time. Its like graduating college and finding a real job, some people take longer than others. I tend to loose some respect when the attitudes creep in.
For me its a personal thing. Making Master is a short-term goal. When that goal becomes more important than the big picture (which it has started to become for me) I need to take a step back. I feel I'm practicing the classifier so much that its becoming obsessive. I've come to realize that I don't NEED to make Master. What I do need to do is work on things that will improve my shooting, if I do that, then "trying" to make Master no longer exists...one day it will just be.
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Thanks everyone for the great info. While it would be nice to hold a Master card, if I need to try so hard to get it, then I'm probably NOT ready to be a Master shooter even IF I make the time! I know of people who shoot it multiple times until they get whatever class they want. I think regardless of class, a shooter should be able to shoot the classifier COLD in one run and make a time consistently and repeatedly. Sometimes people get into chasing a classification that it becomes more important than the shooting.
Pekiti Take-Off
in Tips for Improvement
Posted
No, thats not it, thats just a positional movement (sidestep).