Filishooter
-
Posts
355 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Events
Store
Posts posted by Filishooter
-
-
With a carbine gas system and rifle handguard mine was only easily accessible with a ball end wrench.
You can almost get it with a standard wrench but the angle can lead to cross threading and a gradual distortion of the threads. Then the set screw blows out and you have a straight pull bolt gun. So either be really careful or buy a set of ball end wrenches.
Alan
Thanks!
-
Don't mean to hi-jack your thread but its somewhat related...
I'm thinking of putting the JP full-length handguard on my carbine with an adjustable JP gasblock. Does anybody know if the gas bleed off can be accessed through the slots on the handguard or would I need to remove the handguard to adjust it?
Thanks,
Andy
-
I modified a Speedfeed to fit on my 20 gauge 1187. its pretty easy to hold without dismounting the gun from the shoulder and load weakhand, but I don't think I'd be able to do that with a heavier 12.
-
Can anyone way in on any advantages/disadvantages to the different bullet weights.
How do I select one, e.g. 147 gr vs 124 gr vs 115 gr.
Again, this is for a carbine.
I shoot 147's in my production pistol , but went with the max loaded 115's in carbine because of how flat it shoots out to 100 yards. All of my local tact rifle matches are 100yds or less. Mostly 15 to 50 yds. 9mm competes very well under these conditions
I went from 147 to 115 out of my 9mm Carbine. 115 MG FMJ with AA#5 makes minor rifle easy. I agree, the lighter bullet at higher velocity does shoot very flat. Slightly more recoil but it seems to get done with it faster. (With the 147 it seems to take a little while longer for the dot to settle down).
-
I have a 115 grain FMJ with AA#5 load worked up that easily makes rifle minor out of my RRA 9mm 10.5" barrel. Shoots nice and flat and I like the faster cycling better than with the 147gr bullets.
-
Went to Dick's at lunchtime to see if they had these. They didn't...I did try on some Landsharks and I'm not sure they are for me. I've been wearing Nike ACG all-terrain sneaks and wearing full on cleats feels strange to me, a little stiff. Could these UA be a good in-between compromise? It may offer better traction than trail shoes in the grass/dirt and be better on wood planks than cleats. I don't know.
I wouldn't compare wear properties from one brand and type of shoe to another. Think of tires with different rubber compounds and properties, some wear more than others. The rubber nubs probably WILL wear faster than hard plastic but I'd like to here from someone who has been using them. If it gives good overall traction and is comfortable I'd deal with the wear. We spend so much money on our firearms and other toys, $65 for my feet isn't too bad if they are worth it.
-
Has anyone checked out the UA Twin Bil All Purpose Turf Shoe? The sole looks like it would work well on a variety of surfaces. The nubs look similar to the GSG9s (not exactly but a bunch of small rubber nubs instead of fewer large ones).
http://www.underarmour.com/shop/mens/footw...APV/1099055-001
-
I was playing with my buddies Saiga last weekend. If you're a lefty you may have an advantage. While the stock is still in your left shoulder pocket reach over with your left hand and hold the bolt back. You're basically pulling the gun into your shoulder using the bolt. Using your right hand insert the magazine (it goes in much easier on an open bolt as I'm sure you know), as you let go with your left hand it chambers a round. It was pretty quick this way and more reliable for me than getting a mag to seat on a closed bolt.
-
Last video,
You had an opportunity from your second shooting position to your third and from your third to your last to pickup some time. Seems like your focus when you are running is downrange searching for the target even with those large barricades that don't let you see anything. After your last shot from position 2, snap your vision to your next setup point (you should know where that is) then right before you get there, snap your vision back onto the targets. Going from position 2 to 3 you kind of glanced at where you were going but it looked like your focus was drawn to looking downrange waiting to see the targets. From 3 to 4 you did a double scoot to see the targets. If you would have nailed your setup spot that wouldn't have happened.
-
ummm...dude, you're shooting a pink shotgun.
Just kidding, if works and you like it, thats all that matters. There are couple guys on shotgunworld.com using Ceramic Duplicolor engine paint on thier guns, and it doesn't look too bad. Could be a good low-cost finish.
http://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewtopic....light=speedfeed
-
No LT20 stocks that I know of.
You can mod the 12ga stock...the LT 20 is .110 smaller than 12ga side to side.
Jim
Thanks. I got my SpeedFeed 4S and got it to fit the LT nicely. Verdict is still out on which I prefer as I haven't shot it yet, but handling it and practicing reloads I can say its easy for me to keep the gun shouldered while loading 5 at time weakhand probably because of the lighter weight of the 20 up front. It seems to point well for me, same as the standard stock. I don't expect much difference in recoil control since the 20 didn't really kick much to begin with.
-
for most purposes..I like tape on the frontstrap, the backstrap and where the heel of my support hand contacts the grip..those three points are the most critical for me..
I like the same contact points. If you look at the picure you posted my tape would creep up from where you left off all the way up to the slide (I'm a lefty) and the other side would like like how you have it, plus the backstrap being covered. I like to keep the area free anywhere near my trigger finger. My finger doesn't contact the frame but I don't need anything to grab it just in case. I also don't put any near the bottom of the grip since I don't really grip there anyways. If it feels to rough you can take some sandpaper and knockdown some of the grit. It will take some time for your hands to build up to where it doesn't feel rough. Practice till you bleed!
-
I used final Cut, a video/audio editing program to create a series of Par Time beeps at various intervals. I then turned them into MP3s and downloaded them to my ipod. it works great. If anyone wants some MP3 par times let me know and I can email them to you.
-
Slight thread drift, but related...
Does anybody know who makes a Pistol Grip stock for a 1100/1187 LT20 (the smaller frame 20 gauge)? Everything I'm finding is either a standard replacement stock or for the bigger guns. Can a 12 gauge pistol grip stock be modified to fit the 20 gauge?
TIA
-
Guns in film (from what I can remember):
Couple of M4s
HK USP
Berretta 92
S&W 4006?
Pump shotgun (couldn't ID the make).
Personally, if I'm the last man on Earth I'm going to find me some better toys! I would bet most members on this board are better equipped. Heck, Charlton Heston in the Omega Man better guns (M14, M1 Carbine).
The SCARIEST part of the movie was when he was pumping gas...$6+ a gallon?!!!
-
If you don't have any hips like I do, you will constantly have to show your "hips" to ROs.
Cool, just checked out my hips, looks like I can get one more magazine in front of my current IDPA setup.
-
We used to have the center-line rule, but we relaxed it slightly and we now have the same rule as IPSC Production. The gear on the belt for Production has to be behind the hip bone. You don't get to put it anywhere, but you can probably move it forward a couple of inches if you like...kinda depends on your hip bone.
No rule on the cant, free to use what you like there.
I run 3 safariland single pouches (from my limited gun rig) and then one double mag pouch (Fobus or Bladetech, or whatever it is)
Thanks for the quick reply!
-
I've been shooting my 1187 Youth for almost a year now. Started out with a fiber optic sight, modified choke and 1 oz heavy dove loads thinking I needed to get more shot on target, aim it like a rifle, etc, etc. but have since took the fiber optic off, switched to 7/8th loads, IC choke and shooting it how a shotgun should be shot and it STILL has more than enough to knock down the steel (at my range anyways). I keep some 3" shells handy in case I come across some stubborn steel, I haven't had to use them yet. Transitions between poppers is very fast due to the low recoil and light weight. I think the only think that is going to stop the 20 this time around are the rule makers.
Last weekend a guy with a loosely choked 12 gauge wanted a reshoot because he couldn't knock down some steel. My 20 took it down easy and ended his whining.
-
hi,
I've been basically using my IDPA setup for the USPSA Production matches I've been shooting lately and want to get some specific equipment for Production and have a few questions. Is there any restriction on magazine pouch position on the belt – does it have to be on the centerline or can they be mounted forward on the belt? Is there any restriction on degree of cant of the magazine pouch? I'm thinking of getting Safariland 773s for my M&P, but if there are any of the above restrictions I might as well stay with what I'm already using.
Thanks,
Andy
-
I have an SBR 10.5" RRA 9mm mated to a Spikes Tactical lower. I'm using the Hahn Dedicated block with modified UZI mags and new CProduct mags. Really fun and cheap to shoot! Major pistol loads aren't really required to make minor rifle. I've loaded around 8 grains of AA7 and made it. I've also shot my minor PF pistol ammo using a reduced recoil spring and it shoots very soft. For the 9mm (unless you get the bolt ramped) you will need a 9mm hammer (I hear the DMPS hammer without the spur works as well) and maybe a 9mm buffer. The gun is very accurate out to 60 yards (max distance of our range).
-
Here is what I see.
They were speed courses and the difference between you and a M was that a M would have...speed leaving and entering positions.
For example on stage 1 leaving position one, RUN. You hesitated leaving and entering next positions. Its really about getting to/from the shot fast and efficient.
+1 your shooting looked pretty good, but you lacked any kind of burst out of the box and efficiency entering positions. At the beginning of stage 2 you appeared to walk forward and coast into position. its not so much the top speed but the acceleration, the plyometric burst of power to get you going, you need to reach your top speed in the first 3 or 4 steps. On the other end, if you were able to reach your top speed quickly you then need to learn how to hit the brakes hard and smooth while you get into the next position. think of it as an energy wasting way to drive a car. Jack rabbit starts from a green light and hard on the brakes at the next red light. Always try be in full acceleration or full braking mode (no coasting) unless of course you are shooting while moving.
You could also work on improving your agility. Going around the barracade in stage 1 it looked like alot of little baby steps that weren't really getting you anywhere. Compare that with a professional running back that uses his steps to launch his body into another direction. I'm not saying you need to have the physical attributes a pro athlete, but alot can be learned from it.
-
At my level, I may pay $1500 to even a local GM shooter IF its a multi-month long/half season type program where he can watch me in matches, mentor and progressively feed information and change drills as I am ready for them. $1500 for a 2 day class is to much money and would be too much information for me to take in all at once....it would probably leave me with more questions than answers.
It is similar to martial arts training. Some guys spend big bucks to train in seminars with big names, but the fighters that usually "get it" are the ones that train in a program and have an instructor that can help them find their own way.
-
How about if the Saiga starts with 20 in the gun?
-
Question, can one legally shoot them in any order? For some reason I thought it was left to right or right to left.... kr
"Start back to targets, turn and fire one (1) shot at each, T1-T3, reload from slide lock and fire one (1) shot at each, T1-T3"
Pretty sure targets can be shot in any order unless specified.
I'm going out tomorrow to try it out. My initial thought is that there isn't enough vertical spread to make a difference (2 ft from lowest to highest target plus the space between targets is a pretty good distance). If the vertical difference were more like 4 ft and they were spaced closer together then it would probably be faster if your transitions are good.
Over-practicing the IDPA Classifier?
in IDPA Shooting
Posted
While being good practice for fundamental skills, I feel that now that I know it so well from practice, its missing the adrenal kick that I get from the anticipation/excitement of the unknown stage, the “high” that I get that I use to get into a zone during a match is gone. I almost think I was doing better not practicing the classifier and approaching it on game-day as just another match. The classifier reminds me of an old girlfriend where we are stuck in the same dull routine where we start to loose interest. I know what I need to do to make her happy, but I have to work through it. In contrast, a new match is like the other girl(s) your seeing behind your girlfriends back...fun, exciting, new and you know there will always be another, different one next week!
I seem to do well in match pressure situations, I tend to rise to the occasion and most of the time do well. Is it possible to practice the classifier too much? Just for reference I'm an SSP EXP shooter about 3-5 seconds outside of Master.