Filishooter
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Posts posted by Filishooter
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I like the replacement idea for my friends that I trust! That means a year or so from now it will be like finding money/primers in my pocket!
However, I wouldn't do it for people I don't know very well, I've been burned trying to help people out before.
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I just received a small order of primers (20k) and am thinking of sharing some them with some guys at the range who say they are running low. What do you think would be a fair price? I paid $25.50 plus shipping/Hazmat in bulk...so about $27 per box after shipping. Should I sell it for what I paid for it, mark it up a little, or just hang on to them? I'm not looking to take advantage of anybody, but at the same time, if I sell some of my stash, it may cost me more in the future to replace them. What's a fair price considering the current market?
Thanks.
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We used Jon's barrels at todays 3 gun and they worked great. Easy, simple, solid and safe!
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I'm with JJ on this one... I favor the vertical barrel or trash can. As an RO, I've seen a lot of people literally throwing the gun into the abandonment barrel to save time. A vertical abandonment barrel is harder to save time on by throwing the gun, lessening the incentive for this dodgy practice, and even if the gun is thrown there is less chance of it falling back out (it gets a little more help from Sir Isaac Newton). Sure, the gun can break the 180 slightly if it falls the wrong way, but its pointing right down at the ground so even if someone accidentally walks in front of the abandonment barrel they won't be at risk. At SMM3G we place a diagonal shelf inside the vertical barrel to prevent the gun from breaking the 180, and to safely handle short guns:
the angled shelf is the best solution I've seen for the issues with a vertical barrel.
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If you can win with a Hi-Point setup...
I thought about doing the same but with a cheap Sigma just to see, after all its not the arrow, right?
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Preliminary plans for a 45 degree PVC barrel drop stand. Stand can be secured with sandbags or spikes.
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A vertical barrel can easily have the barrel pointing back towards the 180 line, if the rifle/shotgun muzzle was placed too far forward, and the stock tips forward.
Kind of like this?
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Started in 08/07 classified as a "C" Production (and Sharpshooter IDPA). Made "B" in about a year (and Master IDPA 4 months later). I'm at 70% and working towards "A" before 08/09!
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I'm using an old Thumbler Tumbler my uncle gave me. It must be close to 20 years old. I'm using liquid media, water, dishwashing soap and lemon juice. Brass comes out sparkling!
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The recoil spring is trying to close the slide and keep it closed, while at the same time the striker spring is pushing on the slide in the opposite direction.
This system works because the recoil spring overpowers the striker spring.
If you start weakening the recoil spring without balancing the striker spring you can induce a multitude of problems, among them are premature unlocking of the slide and barrel, or the slide and barrel not fully closing.
Either of these conditions can cause light strikes.
This, along with Dan's input is what I think is happening to my Pro. Attached is my reply to Dan when he mentioned that its probably a weak recoil spring on the M&P forums.
I DO think I either have a worn recoil spring and/or its not strong enough. Looking closely when I dryfire, I see a little movement in the slide, it moves very-very slightly to the back as the striker is being prepped. You can barely notice it, but it does move. Then the slide moves slightly forward when the striker falls. I think this could be enough movement to cushion the strike! I got my new parts today, I'll post an update when I test it out.
FWIW, this problem (intermittent soft hits) just started happening. I have about 5000+ rounds through the gun, It had been working fine with the 13lb spring and my reloads until this month. My reloads are a decent 132PF. I would suggest anyone running a 13lb spring to change it out more often. I think 13lbs is right at the limit of proper function, when it weakens slightly you may have problems, where a factory spring will probably still have enough energy even when worn. I'm probably going to move up to a 15lb. I guess I'll have to do some timing drills!
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Not sure if this helps but I'm using the Dawson .100" x .180" with a Warren Sevigney rear on my Pro and 9L and it hits pretty close to POA/POI.
IIRC .160 is factory height on the 4.25" guns and .180 on the 5" Pro. Not sure on the 9L or where Dawson got the .200 height?
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I had about 3 light primer hits in my Pro at the last match. All the primers were completely seated in the pocket (I checked everyone of them after case gauging). I bought a couple Extra Power striker springs from Speedshooters to see if it makes a difference.
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You also have Titusville who hosts USPSA on the First Saturday of the month, Port Malabar Rifle and Pistol Club that has USPSA on the second Saturday and 3 gun on the third Saturday and Central Florida Rifle and Pistol Club in Orlando who hosts USPSA on the fourth Saturday and 3 Gun on the fifth Saturday! To top it of, if you're free on Sundays all the clubs also shoot IDPA!
Plenty of shooting in Florida year round!
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Thanks guys, I have access to both a level AND a boresighter.
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Lee,
I'm in the same situation as you. I have a beater 16" "M4 type" gun I started with that doesn't get much love since building a couple other guns. I decided to make it into an Iron sight Limited gun so I'm turning it into a M4 Dissipator for the sight radius. I debated putting the front sight on top of a free float but decided to mount it in the standard rifle location on the barrel. I did some research and most people said for BUS mounting it on the handguard was fine but for a dedicated iron sight gun mount it to the barrel. I did it on the cheap with a picitinny gasblock + removable front sight I had laying around and standard A2 rifle handguards. There are better Limited gun setups, but at least I'll probably shoot it once in a while now!
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I'm finishing up a Limited Iron sight gun and need to install a clamp-on FSB. What is the best method to get it clocked correctly? Do you guys just eyeball it, sight in and make adjustments as needed?
Thanks,
Andy
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Safety first...so DQ IMHO.
Some shooters need to learn the hard way. By her getting frustrated/defensive she knows it wasn't the right thing to do and did it anyways. If she can't LaMR safely then she needs to find a way and/or let the SO know her procedure on LaMR and let him decide to let her proceed or not. If I was the SO and she asked me if she could rack the slide that way I would offer to rack it for her, but I wouldn't let her do it in that manor.
If she has a medical "condition" then maybe talk to the MD and see if equipment modifications like a slide racker would be allowed.
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I heard a rumor that Speed Shooter Specialties is now making aftermarket M&P sears cut with the "Pro" profile but I can't find it on their website. Kenny, is this true?
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From my understanding and experience, they want to you to shot your BEST on the classifier and aren't "out to get you" for every PE. For example:
D. Re-Shoots.
If the classifier is not part of a match, limited re-shoots are
permitted in the case of equipment and/or mental malfunction.
This is limited to re-shooting a stage (1/3 of the classifier, 30
rounds). No individual strings of fire may be re-shot for
classification purposes
So...if a shooter received a PE for hands not relaxed or shooting 2 per target instead of 1 per target on stage 1 string 3 (something that seems to happen often) the shooter can claim it was a "mental malfunction" and reshoot the stage.
In Ben's case, he is so under the fastest time (MA), does it even really matter?
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Hmmm... Interesting thread. I just picked up a new M&P Pro 9, thinking I'd try Production. Sure enough, a firm mag insertion drops the slide. Not so sure I like that.
BTW, how are you supposed to hold onto these plastic guns? After years of shooting nicely checkered 1911s (the gun God intended us to shoot), that plastic is awfully hard to keep still!
GRIP TAPE!!!! The Grip God intended us to put on plastic guns!
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I'll try pick something else out that hasn't been talked about since everyone pretty much nailed the technical points already.
Intensity and attitude. While I'm not advocating going so fast as to not get the technique down, you don't want to be so casual that you are just going through the motions. There is a difference between relaxed and sedate....on a couple reloads when your looking the mag into the gun you looked bored, too comfortable. Following your eyes through the transitions, they looked slow, I'm not saying YOU are slow but your eyes in relation to your movement are slow. In some cases your body started moving before your eyes moved! You need to speed up your vision and make it sharp and crisp.
What I like to do is pretend I'm on tape and "play it back" at half speed or quarter speed to get the technique down and build fluidity. But eventually I need to start pushing things until the machine breaks down, I need to feel uncomfortable. If you can focus your training a little better you can cut your sessions down or get more out of the same amount of dryfire time.
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Got mine from Kenny at Speedshooters here:
http://www.speedshooterspecialties.com/cat...n+M%26P+Compact
All the holes seem to lineup on mine, never had a problem with it?
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I am not an expert by any means but this is what I see.....
(1) Running.....That is a far distance and you should really be getting after it when moving.
+1 To expand on this, it looks like your taking short quick steps throughout the entire movement. Think of it like gearing. You can use those quick fast steps to get moving, then after the first couple steps you need to switch gears and dig in and get those long aggressive power strides going. As you reach your next position and start to slow down, change back to the short quick steps to get on the brakes and to get your feet back under your body for control.
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Curious as to why there is such a big gotta have factor to the 5inch M&P?
I understand the longer sight radius, however unlike the Glock it doesn't look like on the M&P that Smith did any reduction in the weight of the slide.
This isn't true. S&W did alot more than just cut away metal. I have both the 4.25" gun AND the 5" Pro (and the 5" 9L). If you compare them side by side you can see right away where the weight reduction is. The Pro and 9L slide is redesigned and is noticeably narrower than the standard slide. Weight on a standard M&P is 24oz...the 5" gun is 26oz, (a difference of 2 oz.) A 9L with the 5" barrel is 25.2oz. (a difference of 1.2 oz). Compare that with the weight of a 34 vs a 17 which is about 1 oz...the weight reduction is there, you just don't notice a big hole in the slide, pretty slick if you ask me.
The pro also comes with a better trigger and competition sights than the standard gun.
Stopping A Shooter To Avoid A Safety Issue
in IDPA Shooting
Posted
Safety first!
I don't want to high-jack this thread but what do you guys think of a SECOND set of muzzle safe points? I was at this match as well, and as Jon mentioned, the muzzle safe cones were intended for the first shooting position uprange. The COF had the shooter advance downrange towards a second and third array. With the shooter downrange that first muzzle safe point doesn't look very safe anymore. Had there been another cone lined up with the visqueen barrier downrange it would have been more visible to the SO and redefined the safety points while downrange.
i know it would help the SO. Do you think this would confuse the shooter? help the shooter? Obviously you don't want cones all over the COF but this is one instance where I think it may have been prudent.