cdrissel

Just got this book last week. It has changes the way I think about long range shooting and exterior ballistics. The real world BC7 values and Software alone are worth the price. www.appliedballisticsllc.com Charlie

How can I change my Banner Ad? Thanks, Charlie

NEW models IOR PitBull Leupold MK AR Leupold MK4 (non-illum)

Read this book! Applied Ballistics for Long Range Shooting by Bryan Lutz It changed the way I now look at long range shooting.

+1 on Hard Anodize. Before you bead blast it talk to your Anodizer. The type of bead material can cause some minor issues with anodizing. They can chemically strip your current anodizing. This is what I do when I need to re-finish an anodized part.

I am working up a load with VV 3n37. I have shot 7.0 gr and 7.5 gr (1.150" OAL). MG 121 IFP, Starline Brass and Wolf SP primers. But have yet to run them over a crono to get PF.

I'm using 4.3 gr TiteGroup over a MG 124 gr JHP or 121 gr IFP in Starline brass with Wolf SP primers. 1.150" COL so they also feed in my G17. About a 135+ PF Runs 100% and is accurate.

I can't be the only one?

PM sent.

6mm BR

I've switched to using Wolf Primers for all my reloading. Only time one did not fire was because it was in backwards. I load most of my pistol ammo on a SDB and all my rifle ammo on a Rockchucker (Lee hand primer). I did notice the Wolf SRP are real tight in new Lapua 6mmBR brass.

I just switched to using all one brand of brass (Star Line). Capacity is not the only issue. I started measuring the rims and extractor groves on different brands and found that there is variation in that area. I think this variable effects extraction and ejection. My STI Steel Master will drop the same brand brass in one pile (about 12" diameter) consistently. Mixed brass has a much larger dispersion. I feel that eliminating variation is the key to reliable and repeatable performance.

I've been shooting my STI Steel Master in Open (minor) for over a year and wanted to know if anyone is shooting Major with one? If so, what is a good starting load? Thanks Charlie

Current list to date of the models I now make: Burris XTR-14 1-4x24 Leupold MK4 CQ/T Leupold MK4 (1.5-5x20 illum, 3.5-8x36 MR/T illum) Leupold Vari-X III (1" & 30mm, 3-9x50 30mm European) Leupold VX II 1-4x20mm Meopta K-Dot (1-4x22 RD) Millett (1-4x24 DMS-1) NightForce NXS 1-4x24 (Compact) NightForce NXS (Full Size) S&B (PMII 3-12x50 small bumps) S&B (ShortDot, 5-25x56 PMII large bumps) Trijicon AccuPoint TR21, TR22, TR24 Weaver Classic V-3 1-3x20mm

Do you want to make another one of them thar poker things? I have the GRX and the will, but don't have the machinery to make the "upside down option" rod for myself. I would be willing to pay a modest fee for such an item! I even bought a single stage press just for this operation and built a new bench to mount it on. Ok Ok... I probably didn't NEED an 8ft long bench with 10 coats of polyurethane hand buffed between each coat on the benchtop... but hey... it's just my way! PM me.

If you don't want to sort and process you can always buy it already done. I just got 500 from Top Brass. www.scharch.com

I have had no problems going base first. I tumble the cases in corn cob/nu finish until they are super clean and shiny. Then lube them up and push them through. Just make sure the corner radius is large enough to match up with the web area.

I have one of the 40 Gizmos. It works well but the only issue I have is this. Since you have to push the brass up through the Lee die mouth first it causes the "glock bulge" to be pushed down and in to wards the web of the case. This may not be an issue, but the brass has to go some were. My solution was to turn the head of a 3/8" ejector pin (injection mold part) to fit into a shell holder slot. Then cut it to the length needed to push the brass all the way through the Lee die (now by itself) base first (upside down). The end of the ejector pin must have a radius on it to fit the web of the case. With this set up the brass is resized from the base/web forward. Pushing the bulge in and forward, not in and down.

But I thought you said practice was "crazy talk". Might be a nice substitute for the "standards stage" of the Sunday Rifle matches. - But don't tell Eddie!

I've never seen base pads for M14 mags. They don't insert straight like an AR mag anyway. I'm looking for something that just covers the bottom to give a more stable "mono-pod" effect. Get the 25 round CMI mags and put This on them Perfect! That's just what I was looking for.

I've never seen base pads for M14 mags. They don't insert straight like an AR mag anyway. I'm looking for something that just covers the bottom to give a more stable "mono-pod" effect.

OK, I got my CMI mags. Who makes base pads for them?

I have a handful of U.S. military contact mags on hand but I use new manufactured M1A mags made by Checkmate Industries (CMI) You can get yours from www.44mag.com Even the 25 round CMI mags work great! Patrick p.s. love your cat tails! Thanks Patrick! www.44mag.com has great prices... I'll be ordering mags from them from now on.

Wanted to start shooting my M1A and need advice on who makes the best mags. Thanks in advance.

Chris should have a limited number of my two new models soon. 3GunStuff.com S&B PMII 3-12x50 (small bumps) Leupold MK4 (1.5-5x20mm illum)