MemphisMechanic

This is why you do things yourself to guns which aren't 1911s.

Thanks for bringing this back up. I now have 1 K9 mag and 6 CDNN MecGar's. All of them function with boring reliability. They're also now wearing Henning's basepads, which are only $16.XX each when you order a six-pack from his shop. Also highly recommended for the way they feel!

Call me crazy. But the topic using the phrase "extreme sear" and his initial post saying: ...made it quite clear that he was asking about going from an EAA sear to an Xtreme sear, as well. Or else he did a hell of a job asking about it on accident.

I think that "forcing it" is the problem. Don't you? Youre forcing the gun into the center of the target (ish) and ripping two shots off because you aren't able to make yourself shoot any other way with a focus on maintaining X amount of speed, unless you get lucky and the gun is already showing it to you. Those are my bad stages or days. Instead, require an acceptable sight picture for that target before you'll let yourself fire. Come hell or high water.

Yes. Until last year it drove me nuts. Stop prioritizing speed. Call every shot and let the speed take care of itself. Simple. Not easy. Go out and practice. But don't practice being faster. Slap a couple of ballbuster partial target arrays out there and shoot mini stages clean and swift over and over. If you can't shoot one array of three partial targets cleanly with boring consistency in practice, how do you magically expect to do it in a match?

I want a dial on the back of the gun which lets me shift anywhere from 6 to 12 pounds on the fly. And I want it to be Production legal despite being a flagrant external mod. Make it happen, P.D.!

Mine is at 40,000 ish now. It got a SSS tool steel extractor hand fitted early on, because the 2007-ish 9Ls were having hideous extraction issues. It got the current striker design because the original ones broke in dryfire remarkably rapidly, again within the first 2,000 rounds. Since then it's worn out three 13lb recoil springs... and that has been all I've done.

Well, you've been unsatisfied with all of the other Wolff springs made for Tanfoglios so why would the recoil spring be any different? Hell, I'll end up buying one too.

I edited the post you quoted. FYI

He asked about the Xtreme sear vs the factory one too, if you read the title and first post together. Not about an Xtreme plunger. Edit: As my first reply indicates, the extreme sear is not an upgrade from the factory 1-piece sear. Just so that remains crystal clear.

The Xtreme sear is identical to the one you already have, except that it's finished differently so that you cannot tell when IPSC shooters break the rules and polish theirs it is nice and silver from the factory and has a slick finish. As to the trigger bar spring, I had to google to confirm you're referring to what most of us call the "plunger spring" here on BEnos. Now I know the factory name for it: http://benstoegerproshop.com/copy-of-eaa-tanfoglio-witness-trigger-bar-spring-3-7-3-8-3-9-3-10-1/ No. Especially if you're going to fit your gun with the Titan/BOLO combination later on from Patriot Defense and really rework your trigger, a reduced power spring here (EGD or Henning) will often cause the hammer to fall too early in DA and not strike hard enough. We're getting 5 and even 4 pound double action triggers these days with the right combination of parts, and that spring polished like crazy (along with the trigger bar plunger) but otherwise left alone.

First, number your mags. All of them. For every gun you own. Check that number every time you have a malfunction. Even seemingly innocent ones like rounds going click. Make that a habit. I use an engraving bit in a dremel but a sharpie on the basepad works fine. Second, have you tried different ammo? Change OALs or bullet profiles just to see. Sudden reliability issues that rise out of nowhere are Ammo, Mag, and gun related. Usually in that order. Most people want to immediately try to diagnose the gun and overlook the actual cause. First thing I would do would be to chamfer and polish the slide where Johnbu suggested. I barely fired mine without that modification, so I'll assume it helped. Second would be to number your mags, bring factory K9 and your CDNN MecGar's to the range and try two different types of your reloads, or grab a box of factory stuff to test it. Those mags have never given me a feeding issue that I've found, btw. Granted my gun is rather new... but I'm running one K9 mag and six MecGar's from CDNN

Done. The photo in my first post is correct now.

As long as the firing pin isn't impeded when the DA shot breaks you won't have any issues. I made that happen and then clearanced just a hair more. I threw "two thirds" out there mostly as a generalization.

One thing I picked up on: You bring your chin down between your shoulders on the draw. Everything in your upper body moves, rather than bringing the gun up to your eyes moving only the arms. Watch your hand speed on the draw and compare that to your new friend Mr Jordan's draw. Watch YouTube videos from various GMs (Bob Vogel, Mike Seeklander, Max Michel) and see how yours compares. Other than your draw there isn't a lot of data to break down in that video, as the others have said it doesn't show what they'll want to see.

If I don't have time to run through a clearly superior plan at least 2-3 times, I'll shoot my less efficient one as best I can instead. A poor plan executed perfectly, is going to result in a better score than a perfect plan executed horribly.

I just noticed that the image is incorrect though! You either file down the bottom of the firing pin block which the sear pushes on. Thats the surface you see sticking out the bottom of the slide... ... or you file down the "tab" that is circled in the picture. That part is correct. The larger circled area is wrong. That would be the top of the block where the spring hole lives, and removing metal here won't affect the firing pink block's timing.

And there it is. I've been wondering how long it would be before these were going to be mentioned. I might have caught a rumor during a phone call a few weeks back.

Oh look. An M&P. Just uglier.

The 6.5lb DA feels like it's half the weight of my Glocks with 6-7lb factory triggers and a full polish job. Why? Because it's unbelievably smooth for one. Slicker than a Glock with the 25 cent trigger job polishing. More importantly, it doesn't stack like a Striker gun. The M&P and G34 both have a large buildup of effort before they break. The Tanfo trigger just rolls smoothly back into the frame without building at all for the final half of the pull, then the hammer drops.

I don't know. I just swapped springs on the factory rod - I am a strong fan of keeping things nearly stock and practicing like mad with the time and money that other guys spend tinkering nonstop. (Every GM I've met has done sights minor trigger work springs and polishing, then just shot the gun nonstop while the C class guys keep buying widgets to try and get better and don't practice) Hopefully someone else can chime in - otherwise find out how much the guide rod weighs and check the rule book to see how much weight you can get away with.

No it should not. But shooting is an active process... Within a year of shooting several times a week, you'll begin subconsciously driving the gun back down onto the target. If you watch a GM when his gun goes click, his muzzle dips. Obviously that's not a flinch from someone who shoots like that. "Driving the gun" means wrenching it back onto target as fast as possible, without tugging the gun down before the bullet leaves the barrel. This is the reason an experienced shooter can run his sights fast enough a novice thinks he's just throwing lead. And a novice might need a half second between shots to get the same quality hits. Just shoot your sights when they are visible in the A-zone. That process will speed up on its own as your eyes learn to see faster, as long as your grip does it's part.

Not at all: I think I'm about ten clicks from full down when adjusted for 135s, perhaps more.

You have andjustable rear sight, sir. All of them.

Also since two or theee have asked: I went with the .140 high by .100 Dawson front sight. I'm happy with that choice because it keeps my rear sight down low and screwed in a few extra turns. And they've been known to break on quite a few guns. Any lower and I'd have a good bit of slide in the sight picture when the front post was a bit high of centered. And anything taller isn't needed.