Aglifter

I had the lock engage on my 625 -- the hammer stuck halfway down on a full cylinder. My father had his engage on his 340PD**, while I was w. him to see it. A good friend of mine, whom I have no reason to doubt also had his engage on his 340PD**. From what I've heard, it is mostly the 340PD, and the scandium 44 mags* that had it engage. I don't quite know how it happened on my 625, but the flag was partially up, and the hammer was stuck. *I shot an IDPA match w. my 329NG - by the end of ~100 Remington 44 mag rounds, despite using 222MS loctite on the screws, every one was loose. The two holding the rear sight, that I forgot to loc-tite, were barely in the gun at all, and the cylinder latch screw was fairly loose. I realize that's a bit of a torture test, but given how much stress the frame must be under to loosen the screws like that, I'm not surprised to see locks fail -- I disabled the lock on my 329 before I shot it. It's a ridiculous design. Part of the problem could be that the "flag" is restrained by a very small spring, and is positioned such that the flag will torque against that spring with every shot. **They were the prior model w. Ti cylinders.

I had Apex Tactical build a 625 for me w. a Ti Cylinder -- never had a problem, other than being difficult to clean. I had it duracoated, so that I could clean it easier, and ended up w. sticky cylinders. I've been very, very happy w. that gun.

What about a 610 S&W?

If anyone's interested in gold inlay and silver grips, at a far lower price than that ebay auction, Lopez Bros. in Bandera, TX make very nice ones.

I have an OWB from Lil' Bear holsters in horsehide for my 329NG, which I'm quite happy with.

I know next to nothing about shooting, but I think the mindset stuff from my jock days might help -- note, I might end up taking shooting seriously, but at the moment it's still the same as auto crossing was for me -- just a goofy, fun thing I enjoy. Essentially, I spent a great deal of time w. headphones on, watching a second hand tick, or a candle in a dark room, or a blinking red light. Some of my fellow competitors used matches. (I stuck w. a little red light that was meant to go on a bicycle -- I could make it either glow red, or blink. Classical music was good for the initial use, obviously it was a bit slow paced for contest use.) As I spent time doing that, one of the first things I noticed was that I became aware of my pulse, so I began working on controlling it (never managed to get below 37 BPM, though.). The overall goal is to learn how to separate yourself from your body, so that you can remain in the neat, clean, calm place that the music and the beating light control, and observe your body obey your instructions. (Might not work for another soul on earth, but it worked for me. I realize it might sound pretty fru-fru, but it's fairly easy to do, IMO.)

Any suggestions for a decent gun club in the area? (I've gotten a bit spoiled by being in Houston/Central TX.) I'd like to be able to shoot a match every weekend. I have been shooting IDPA -- not married to it, it's just available. I've found Ant Hill, so far -- I'll probably shoot their matches when I can, although I haven't shot a USPA match yet. (Might shoot those w. my revolver, if I'm ever able to actually make a shot w. the blessed thing.)

Is push-pull correct for heavy amounts of recoil? I was told to use that, and have been, on my 454, 500 S&W, etc. Admittedly, I haven't learned how to do the straight thumbs technique yet, but it did improve my ability to control the revolver relative to a "combat" grip -- i may have just been gripping the gun more firmly, however.

Thank you for the suggestions. I am trying to stick w. a single platform -- I don't mind buying multiple guns.

I've carried for years -- work's in a BAD area, but we're heavy industrial, so we need to be there -- and started shooting IDPA weekly. As I've been lurking on here, I've been getting more and more interested in shooting open. (I think that's the right class -- the one with compensators and optics.) I'm fairly certain I want to stick to one platform for carry and IDPA -- possibly for IPSC as well. How important is it that an open class gun be the same as an IDPA/CCW gun? I always carry a Rohrbaugh (long, light DAO.) And, I've started carrying a P226, recently. At times, I carry a a G29, when life's going to get really wet and dirty -- fishing, rough day at work, etc. (I also occasionally carry a P7, and carry a revolver while hunting, etc.) As far as I can tell -- that's too many triggers to learn. The only pocket guns I'm willing to carry have DAO triggers (nothing wrong w. Kel-Tecs, but I like my pup and my J frames.) However, I don't think my pocket gun is likely to end up being used in a situation which calls for accuracy. At the moment, I'm considering: going w. 1911s (Lightweight for carry, Steel Gov't for IDPA, spiffy one for open.) Going w. XDs (XDM for open, another for IDPA, and a service size for carry.) Revolvers (really lose capacity while carrying and lose some ability to stand up to knocks, etc.) P226 -- carry a regular one, find a ST version for match use.

I don't think anyone would fault someone for yelling "stop" due to a prop failure (which often an RO might not be able to see), or for people being downrange* -- but "finger" and "muzzle" would seem difficult, IMO, to judge from a spectator's position, and inappropriate. *The gentleman running the timer was messing w. it once, when I was the last one left taping targets -- that "beep" was possibly the loudest sound I've ever heard.

I carry a P226, quite happily. I've started shooting IDPA every weekend, and as my P226 was a CPO to start with, I'm considering getting a stainless steel version to use as a match gun. What's the frame life of an alloy gun? Is there a stainless model w. the same frame as just a plain 226. The elite line has "a bevertail and improved ergonomics" - does it feel significantly different in the hand?

Another person w. a bad back and a Rohrbaugh -- I'm very fond of mine, as my father is of his. Skateboard tape on the front and rear strap helps w. keeping a grip on it. The gun itself is fairly accurate, IMO, but it's just difficult to control that well -- still accurate enough for "social" purposes. It's noticeably smaller than a PF9, and thinner than a J Frame -- quite a bit smaller than a Kahr as well.

I'm sorry, I just coultn't resist! Well, those charging trout are pretty lethal...

After my Ruger Super Alaskan came back from the custom shop w. a bobbed hammer, and a lightened (10#) hammer spring, it could no longer reliably shoot 454 Casull. I went back to the original hammer spring (14#), and I think I can shoot Winchester primers reliably -- I plan on loading up just primers in some brass w. the holes drilled out some, but I haven't gotten to that yet. Currently, I'm thinking about either getting another hammer, and if it works w. a stock hammer, just removing the spur (the custom shop did a pretty aggressive bobbing.), but I would prefer to find some way to go up to about a 16# spring -- maybe an 18#. It's my fishing gun, so I'm not really worried about trigger feel, as much as I am about not snagging.