caspian guy
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Posts posted by caspian guy
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Was shooting my old faithful steel framed caspian high cap for the last 2 years or so after i cracked a slide on the sti framed gun i was shooting..
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A buddy who is a glockophile has an SJC built full house open glock with a standard upright cmore in 9mm major. With appropriate major ammo it is flat, fast and accurate. I don't like the sharp/harsh character of the recoil (gun isn't heavy enough for my taste) but with some practice it wouldn't hurt my scores any. But to be clear that SJC gun is as much a custom gun in most ways as my caspians/2011s are. that's not the same as randomly bolting parts to a glock diy.
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Does anyone have a link to that rebate program.
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If you run the case into the die far enough to bump the shoulder it will size the neck. Without the decapping pin assembly/spindle it won't expand the neck back out.
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Assuming that your bench has a structure that the top and legs attach to thats roughly a box... bolt through the part of that structure that touches/runs along the wall (assuming that your bench is wider that the stud spacing?)
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If your cmore is losing elevation adjustment its sometimes caused by a worn elevation adjustment lock screw. You can fix that by pulling the lock screw and roughing up the tip of the screw where it bears against the elevation screw (i use a triangular file to put some small teeth in the tip of the screw)
Sorry for the slight thread detour
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Cmore drift can happen i have had it happen to me 3 or 4 times in a fair number of years of shooting open.I have seen it happen to others but i wouldn't characterize it as happening often. I witness mark the adjustment screws on ny scopes for my own sanity. A search on here would provide some suggestions as to how to fix the issue behind it.
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If i was building a dedicated minor open gun. I would want the lightest slide possible (in the 10 oz range or lighter.) I would want a bushing barrel/coned comp. I would want no more than a 7 to 8 lb recoil spring. I'd want a generously beveled firing point stop. A long firing pin. The lightest mainspring i could get to work reliably (talking a federal primer only kinda deal) I'd probably want a thumb shield to keep my fingers off the slide. Probably want the gun stroked as well for reliability (more tolerance for the mags to get the rounds up in time among other things)
You'd have to keep on top of keeping all the springs changed and the gun very clean.
Then I'd start with 90 to 95 grain bullets and work up a load to get the gun to track well.
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2 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:
I heavily encourage everyone to shoot Limited Minor with their production gun for a couple of matches before switching to the 10 round division.
Yep that's the same advice i give new shooters who come to shoot with us. I feel it lets them focus more on navigating the stages safely with out adding an additional level of complexity.
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Overkill really is underrated
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I approve this racegun....
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Very cool old gun.
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Most things are download and print then sand/trim/finish depending on the quality of your printer. Then depending on how you like it modify if you want.
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Cool, i may have to print one of those primer chutes myself to try.
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If you wanted to drill and tap the dust cover you can have a small steel plate silver soldered to the outside of the dust cover. Then drill and tap through the plate and the dust cover. Makes it thicker and less likely to crack the dust cover where the holes go thorough. I have an old caspian frame done that way people used to do the same thing to paras.
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On sale pmc bronze should be around 300 per thousand or just a bit less plus shipping. wolf gold a little less if you catch the right sale.
The Hornady training about 370 or less on sale + shipping.
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For close range stuff pmc bronze or wolf gold.
For longer range i use the 75gr hornady training ammo (steel cased but loaded by hornady with their 75 gr bthp match bullet). Flash targets out to 500-600 yards are no problem.
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None... take the sights off, you don't need them for a competition gun.
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Whose fillament did you use?
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God I hadn't heard that voice for years.
Thanks for posting that.
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Congrats man... that's an accomplishment for sure.
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I think Jeff is over at the IPSC Rifle Worldshoot just right now... might check back in a week or so.
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11 minutes ago, Broski said:
I have a friend that puts a used dryer sheet in his tumbler with each load... when he pulls it out the dryer sheet is black as hell from all the crap it collects... e says it helps keep the media clean as well. Ever heard of this?
I do the same as it seems to reduce the ammount of dust.
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2 hours ago, Just_Me said:
OK, boy you guys are quick, I think this is the problem.
I looked at a few of the "off spec" bullets, and it the very tip of the hollow point is sometimes slanted pretty hard (maybe 30 or 45 degrees), and this appears to be my measurement problem.
I just googled the term Ogive, and now that I know what it is, I dont know how to measure to it. The SMK 77 grain ogive seems to begin below the crimp, its a long bullet, and I dont see anything that delineates where the ogive begins until the tip of the bullet.
Should I not worry about the OAL variance, and maybe try switching to Varget? I was wanting something that meters well in the 650
To do the measurements get one of these https://www.amazon.com/Hornady-Lock-Load-Comparator-Inserts/dp/B000PD5VLA
But i suspect that oal variation isn't likely to be your problem.. match kings are famous for it and still shoot great (some of the ultra long-range guys have tools for trimming and pointing the noses but at 100 yards its very unlikely you'd see any impact.)
Some folks can get varget to run through a Dillon powder measure a quick search should turn up some guidance. I never could, so i use short grained or ball type powders.
Old School
in Open Pistols
Posted
The 9x25 stays in the safe as the concussion generates too much RO hate (and that much N110 gets pricey)