caspian guy
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Posts posted by caspian guy
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24 minutes ago, brisix said:
Taccom used to make a 3D printed magwell. He no longer offers it and doesn't plan on making them again. CZ Custom also doesn't have any interest either.
Maybe try contacting him and offer to pay for a license to print one based on his design. That's not unheard of in the 3d print world.
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1 hour ago, Sarge said:
Kind of a funny argument that “Don” makes about gun builders gouging people. Since like he said it takes about 2 days to actually build a gun and the parts to build an Open gun are generally around $2k. So while others may be gouging he is still making $2k in two days?
I’m not bashing him in any way just pointing out that it’s an odd argument to make. Assuming he has all of the same machines the others have?
There's some other costs to think about there... Insurance, Healthcare, taxes,costs of keeping a shop open, wear and tear on tooling and equipment. Plus the occasionally taking time off for vacation and being sick plus the normal risks of small business ownership.
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26 minutes ago, ltdmstr said:
Same concept as Spuhr. As for using levels, if you have a quality base and quality optic, this type of tool will almost certainly get you a more accurate result than eyeballing a level.
https://arisakadefense.com/products/optic-leveler
Here's a 200 yd target shot with rifle set up using the Ariska.
Yep pretty much an adjustable parallel.
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When i firat started loading 9mm major i experimented a bit with it, and waw able to loaded the same cases that started out as once fired 5+ times with no real problems I did start to see some splits after that. Now I shoot them once in practice and load them back up and shoot them at a match and leave them on the ground.
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I have used silhouette since not that long after 9mm major with light bullets became legal and haven't really found any reason to use anything else.
Before that I used Nobel Sport SP2 (which I preferred) but hasn't been imported to the US for years. Shooters world major is the only thing introduced lately I've considered trying but haven't had a chance yet.
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Nice shooting what rifle?
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I can't give you an answer to that, instead let me offer you a way to think about it.
The way I think about that is what's your time worth? A 1050 is 2x or more the loading speed of a 550. When you find the need to reduce your time spent loading for a month by that much (other stuff in your life needs the time) and you are willing to pay that to get the loading time back... then you have your answer.
I still load all my pistol ammo on a 650 (I also have a 1050 that I use for processing. 233 brass) but that's what works for me.
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5 hours ago, AHI said:
I have used a Gracey did not like it . You
use it like a pencil sharpener.The Giraud is the same.
After about 30 min my hands hurt and cramp up.
The Giraud is a better unit. I sold my Gracy and bought
a Dillon 1500 and set up a tool head to process 223 brass.
It sizes and trims at the same time . All other units require you
to size then trim. Have never seen the Hornady in person.So
size clean lube off (cases slip in your hand you get incostant length etc)
then trim vs lube run threw press clean load.
Non press mounted Giraud is considered the best If you can try before you
buy . Don't just do a hand full but several 100 to really get a feel for how it works.
Yep I like the Giraud for how well it works but more than 20 mins of trimming leaves me with sore hands. If I need more than that, it gets done on the 1050 with the press mounted Dillon trimmer.
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Just now, patrickbeijer said:
There is a guy in my country that makes mag wells for them that you can ''clip on'' i do not know if he does this commercially but some of my friends use it and looks very nice
Interesting I you have a link or picture I'd love to see it.
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4 hours ago, patrickbeijer said:
thanks Guys , i shoot with an HK94 and also with a 9mm AR but really like shooting the MP5 .
I noticed the biggest drawback is the reload but i think i just need to practice more....
I did add a Tac Latch from HK Parts and that already helped me out a lot because the push button is not ideal
I need to put a tac latch in mine (given what real original HK 94s cost in this country I just couldn't bring myself to modify it for the paddle release.)
It took me a fair ammount of practice to get a decent reload with it. The curved mag and insertion angle coupled with tight mag well make it a bit of a chalange. I even played around some with the old original style straight stick mags (but they haven't ever been that reliable in my guns. ) I really need to see about designing and 3d printing a mag well for it, just haven't gotten around to it.
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I down load mp5 mags 4 rounds or so for mandatory reloads. I never had an issue loading to a closed bolt with my hk94 ( semi auto mp5 with push button mag release as opposed to a paddle release) Just takes some practice as the reload isn't that natural.
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Merry Christmas y'all.
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2 hours ago, vgdvc said:
Has anyone found any useful repeatable reference such as something on a C More itself that helps draw your visual attention to the dot as the gun gets leveled to fire coming into position?
If you put the top of the dot module in the bottom of the lens the dot should appear.
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What you have looks fine. To a large extent most anything works fine with enough practice.
You might try canting your holster so that the back strap of the grip of your pistol is more parallel to the ground (I find that helps me get a more consistent grip on the gun.) if you use a scoop draw something else might be better.
My holster is positioned so that from a normal starting position of hands naturally at sides bringing my hand straight up and back down gets me a good grip on the gun. With my posture that puts the gun about where Matt1 above describes.
My mag pouches are set so that the first one is located so that when I drop my hand straight down from my firing grip the mag is where my hand intersects my belt and angled like you have yours so that when I grab it my index finger is parallel to the spine of the mag. The rest are set at similar angles. Except the last one farthest to the back which is more vertical as Sarge describes.
For reference I am a middle of the pack M so nothing special.
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Community Dark Roast
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Assuming a warm day, what I do with any new load/powder I am dealing with is put 10 or more in a zip lock bag in a cooler with ice. Put 10 of them in the sun on a warm day or some other way of warming them up so they are warm to the touch. Shoot them over your chrono along with 10 @ ambient temp. That will give you some idea of what you are dealing with. Like zzt says if it makes pf under the circumstances you shoot in that's what matters
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Hmmm so 2 things would be at work here to my way of thinking. When you cut a slide for a hybrid rib the metal you remove from the slide is mostly counter balanced by the metal in the rib. Since they both move back together at the start of the recoil cycle I wouldn't except that much slowing of the slide velocity due to that (though things change when the barrel links down and unlocks and now you do have a somewhat lightened slide. ) The other thing at work here is that since you are stripping off some of the gas that would exit the muzzle which reduces the rocket effect that should act to slow the slide some. Now if you put a comp on the barrel that increases the weight of the slide/barrel system. I would expect that to slow the slide (in addition to the effect of recoil reduction due to redirecting the gas)
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+1 to the CRF mentioned above. Compact, works well, the glass in the monocular is great.
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Sure, it's just metal. If you have a decent lathe it wouldn't be a big deal. However by the time the gunsmith got done the time spent might make it not be cost effective.
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20 hours ago, blacklab said:
This is actually really good advice. I do "invest" in firearms. If I see a good deal on a firearm I buy it. The way I see it I don't have to feed them and they need nothing. They just sit in the safe and over time go up in value taking into consideration inflation and the political climate. And they are in my possession, and they will still be in my possession even if the market crashes like in 2008. I would loose nothing unlike investing in stocks.
If you had bought an hk drop in auto sear or a registered receiver m16 during the last recession you'd have much more than doubled your money between then and now. As an example.
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So... Ultra clean degreased then use new tube of red loctite, let it set according to the instructions before you use it. If you have to get it off... Heat the screw from inside the dust cover with the tip of a soldering iron directly on the screw. Also be careful of solvents when cleaning.
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2 hours ago, Dazhi said:
Suppose someone wears the ShotMaxx in spy-mode, and complains about a 2 sec difference between the RO timer and ShotMaxx. What's the best steps to get this resolved?
Check section 9.10 of the rules. Likely you'd have to appeal to the cro/rm, then if you weren't satisfied you could try to arbitrate (check section 11.1 on arbitration) if you felt your time wasn't correct.
The problem you'd have trying to prove it was wrong would be that recordings /video/photos aren't accepted as evidence (11.1.5) probably the committee would decide your shotmaxx fell under that category. You'd likely have to argue the timer was faulty (see 9.10) if the committee tested it and found it was you'd get a reshoot. If not then probably it would score as shot. The other avenue is if the committee (9.10.2) found your time unreasonable you could get a reshoot.
New SIG Optic, Romeo3Max (Michel)
in Open Pistols
Posted
If that turns out to be true, and it's durable and bright, I'll be replacing a couple of delta point pro dots late this year.