caspian guy
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Posts posted by caspian guy
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Yep curved mags suck to reload... I used my hk94 carbine to shoot some pcc. With a fair bit of practice (and a fair number of years of shooting HKs) I eventually got the reloads to be smooth but it's harder than it needs to be.
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Yep sign me up for a couple. The EGW one is a lot better than nothing, but not close to as good as an ICE.
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On 4/17/2018 at 11:48 PM, Frankly said:
I was watching a tactical defense type video about side saddles and while the guy was the fastest I’ve ever seen with one, he was averaging 12 seconds to load six. And it was fumbly and took more practice than a 3g load.
I’d rather have a handful of shells in my pocket and keep my shotgun narrow and nimble.
Better yet have a pistol with your shotgun.
Yep better off loading weak hand or 2s or 4s.
However 12 sec for 6 shells is not quick for that technique. Back when people strong hand loaded from arm bands and side saddles I have seen my friend Jeff Cramblit strong hand load and get 8 loaded in the 8 sec range shot to shot.
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You can check with adco https://adcofirearms.com/products/gunsmithing/
But likely Repete is right, better sell yours and buy what you want.
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3 minutes ago, Hi-Power Jack said:
As we "Floridians" say : "Beauty is in the eye of the beholder".
You meant beer holder right?
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Frequently folks who get in trouble with 650s and high primers suffer from a press that's not bolted down tight enough to a table that can move when you use the press. Then when they push the handle to seat the primers the press rocks or moves and they stop pushing thinking it's at the end of the stroke (causing the high primer.) if you want to check how deep your 650 will seat a primer. pull your tool head measure the distance to the top surface of the primer punch to the top of the shell plate with the handle fully forward and the primer punch all the way up. That the distance from the head of the case to the bottom of the primer pocket, and the thickness of the case rim should let you work that out.
Or you could prime a case like normal then smoothly push harder till you feel the handle actually stop and see what you get. I have never had an issue with getting my 650 to bury primers well below flush.
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17 minutes ago, RiggerJJ said:
LRPs don't fit in pistol brass
Yep that's my experience as well.
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Yea i think that's more likely to be filament with metal particles in it with plastic as a binder rather than metal, kinda like the "wood" and "carbon fiber" filament you see(anything that would actually print metal using a filament would have a hot end that looked a lot more like a mig welder i am guessing) i think the above was printed with a direct laser sintering/melting process from powdered metal.
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I suppose you could always wrap a couple layers of masking tape around the ports and see if the gas shreds it. Then keep adding additional wraps of tape till it doesn't. Then do the same with a .223 comp, or even an open pistol' s comp if you wanted some way to compare how much gas you were getting. Not perfect but would give some basis for for comparison.
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Did you have any issues with the kit quality of the printer?
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Large flat blade screwdriver put some masking tape around it to stop it scratching the slide. Bend it back straightish.
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When i started shooting USPSA there were only 2 divisions Limited and Open.
Open was where all the fast people shot. So probably some of what Jake talked about above.
After a while I went back to Limited (and some single stack when that became a division.) But at some point when i couldn't see the front sight anymore at speed i went to the dark side pretty much full time.
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No doubt and speed of processing would be a big issue... don't expect opencv on a raspi to be fast.
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Raspi and raspi camera with a servo driver or solenoid driver board (depending on how your mechanical design works.) Some python code... probably use opencv template matching or some such Google is your friend there.
The harder part would be the mechanical design of the selector/gate mechanism and chutes to get the brass in N different buckets (assuming you wanted to sort the brass in 1 pass instead of 2 or more.)
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My brother shoots a commander length open gun with a couple of poppel holes and a comp. Silhouette seems to work just fine (not as nice as SP2 used to but...) the same load that goes major and tracks well in his gun seems to work fairly well in a 5" gun I own with a couple of poppel holes and a 3 port comp (gun has a slow barrel just works out same load gives similar pf. )
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My favorite Caspian open gun had been a 38 super. I had rebarreled it to 9mm when the 38 super barrel finally shot out (for most of the time it was a 38 super major was 175.) the gun easily had 100k+ (probably 75k of it 9mm) rounds on it when the slide finally cracked. That's well with in the service life of what I would expect from a well built open gun with a slide that's not radically lightened. I haven't found 9mm more prone to wear or breakage than super (I have a super slide crack as well)
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Seen it done plenty of times not aware of any issue with it.
I never mind when doing stage design having people help keep me out of trouble, but if you tell me something is "illegal" you are going to have to back that up with the book.
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11 minutes ago, 191138sc said:
I had the same experience but had about 55,000 rounds thru the die. Dillon replaced with no questions asked. Great customer service.
Yep same here 50 or 60k rounds called dillon they sent me a new sizer die.
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I suspect this would fall under the logic of once a rifle always a rifle but if its a pistol you can make it a rifle and then convert it back (thompson center vs atf case over contender pistol rifle conversion)
Thinking if you wanted to do this you'd have to use something transfered as a reciever (was never a rifle) and the get the barrel and build. it's so sketchy I'd want a letter from the atfe technical branch with my name on it saying it's ok before i built one myself...
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5 hours ago, Rudukai13 said:
I suppose my definition of precision is capable enough that the equipment I'm using won't hold me back as my long range shooting capabilities improve. I believe a fully-built, several thousand dollar bolt action is several orders of magnitude more potentially capable than I am ever likely to become, so I might as well have fun trying something a bit different from the norm that will still be vastly more mechanically capable than I will be, at least for quite some time into the future
I am concerned about your expectations of something that won't hold you back. Best case i suspect you'll end up spending more than you would have on a new ruger rpr or savage that's likely a 3/4moa or better gun with lots of aftermarket support designed for the purpose. Best case with your plan maybe you end up with something interesting that is 1ish moa or so mechanically but that will be harder to shoot and will hold you back almost immediately.
But you know your goals best.
Sounds like an interesting project anyway. let us know what you end up with.
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It would depend on what you wanted the gun to end up looking like. brownells sells adjustable cheekpiece kits and length of pull kits that can be installed in wood stock rifles... or if you are handy a couple of threaded inserts drilled and glued into the stock and some thumb screws and a bent sheet of kydex would work. Or even a laceup pad (like what is used for an m1c or m1d sniper rifle)
Just depends on how the gun fits you to start with.
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Thinking either 7-08 blr or the 308 henry if you don't want to rebarrel? I'd be dubious of the 243 henry having a fast enough twist to shoot the bullets you need to get to 1k (but you'd need to check?)
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Ok I like wierd projects... i guess it would depend on your definition of precision?
Maybe start with a Henry Long Ranger model (looks BLRish) American Rifleman tested the 308 version they reported it had a 1 in 10 twist so 175 gr bullets ought to be possible. They saw decent accuracy results looks like (have to see what it would do with the heavier bullet). Maybe you could do as suggested above and fabricate a new forearm that cantilevered off the reciever... I bet if you had a big enough steel target you could get to 1000. Looks like the locktime would really stink with that big heavy hammer so better have good technique/follow through (or a really stable secure rest?)
Precision rifle for $2,000
in Precision Rifle
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Its hard to argue with an rpr... i think cdnn had them in 6mm creed for like 899. You could get the rifle and the scope for not that much over what you had budgeted for the rifle. If you don't like the stock there is space in your budget to swap it. There are other things about it you might change as you shoot it but for me that's part of the fun of it.
The tika is also an awsome choice.