cheers623
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Posts posted by cheers623
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Found the dimensions.
STI Standard and Tacitcal/lightrail dustcovers measure .830” +/-
STI Wide Dustcovers measure .920”+/-
At some point, STI started machining the rails to be more similar to 1913 Picatinny style. Don’t know what those measure, but the Tactical rails measure .830”
Again, hope it helps.
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On 2/8/2018 at 2:51 AM, drewbeck said:
No, think about the frame design, the optic mount fits the frame without a rail, the rail is added material below the “traditional” 1911 frame dimensions, so why would they interfere. The bigger issue is whether the optic mount was made for a 1911 width or a “wide body” width. Though I doubt that somebody makes a standard width 1911 frame and then balloons the rail dimension to fit a mil spec width. Unless the frame is literally a one off, a frame with a rail will always be a wide body frame, aka same width as the slide. (Anybody tell me if this is inaccurate) so no clearance issue.
a reliable holster as well as the very limited need, is the reason this is a “who cares” issue.
However, if you are the kind of guy that wants/needs an open gun for his nightstand blaster with an optic, it’ll work fine but you’re better off with a suppressor and no comp. anyone in the room not getting shot will thank you a lot!
Actually....I would have thought the same thing. However, at least with STI frames, they are the same width. STI makes a “wide dustcover” frame that is the same width as the slide. They also make a “traditional” width dustcover frame. The STI “light-rail” frame has the same width dustcover as the “traditional” frame...at least at the point where you’d drill and tap for an optic mount. I know this because that was my concern when I sent my STI light-rail/tactical frame to my gunsmith to build an Open gun on. I’ll see if I can find the dimensions and e post them here. There’s another thread discussing this issue of width on the STI frames in the Gunsmithing section of Forums.
Now...other newer manufacturers of hi-cap widebody frames may Inc fact be wider on their “light rail” frames. Phoenix Trinity comes to mind. Last time I was at their factory and saw one, it sure looked wider. CK May be wider too. Dunno... But STI is not.
Hope that helps!
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I’ve done and had done for me numerous trigger jobs using Stock STI parts, EGW, and Extreme Engineering components. All have held without following and are set around 1.75-2.25#. When I’m dry-firing, the aftermarket parts feel a little crisper and nicer...when the timer goes off...there’s no difference in times or hits...for me. YMMV
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It’s made by British company Shield Sights. JP just has them made for them. They’re solid for what they are designed for. The newer Shield versions also have a slide out battery tray.
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Glad I could help. Make sure you get a good gunsmith to do the work. It needn’t be expensive, but does need to be done by someone who’s actually built Open guns before. In theory the lightrailed frame could possibly hold up better than the traditional frame for 9Major, as it’s got a little more material at certain key areas.
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I’ve got and used both the DT and PT. Both are quality parts, with the PT being MUCH bigger on the paddles, allowing more custom options for sizing. The DT are really nice but smallish.
To use the thumb shield, you must machine your frame for them. It’s permanent at that point.
Hope this info helps.
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My Open gun uses the same frame as the HexTac, including the light rail. It’s drilled and tapped and has the Brazos slipstream mount with RTS2 on it. It’s in 9Major and is holding up just as well as my wife’s Factory Trubor 9Major. Only drawback I can see would be the facing cut on the front of the slide that would need to be made for fitting the comp and new barrel. If you ever wanted to go back to the original barrel, etc....it might look a little odd. Other than that....it’ll work.
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I’ve got and use both. From a fitting standpoint, my experience has been that the CK will be MUCH closer to drop on fit. Both are very well made too. For me, the CK is a little more comfortable in the hands. Rgardless of texturing though, I still need progrip for either when my hands are sweaty. You can’t go wrong with either. Other than the magwell and mag release being proprietary on the CK, either one will work fine and be quite different than plastic.....
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I did my own with a grinding wheel and then polish with paper wrapped on a paint stirstick. Looked like it was made that way when I finished. Brian of PT did a few sets for me at the PT factory and I watched. He just used an air driven grinder and then bead-blasted them. They came out pretty much the same as mine, except they weren’t shiny because of the bead blasting. The trick is to decide how many “lines” you want to remove, mark them with a sharpie, and then go slowly.
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8 hours ago, robertg5322 said:
.45 brass is getting as rare as .38 Super brass where I shoot. .40 S&W is all over, same for 9mm.
Couple that with the ease of not needing to switch the press to large primers, not even having to buy large primers and I wonder why anyone who shoots limited bothers with .45 for Single Stack these days.
Yep, same thing here. .45 with large primer pockets are getting hard to find anymore. I spend about a third of my time at the press having to pull out small primer .45 Brass. 40sw is the way I’ve ended up going for SS and have noticed that the recoil is easier to manage for me, all other things being equal between 40 and 45.
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1 hour ago, Aircooled6racer said:
Hello: I think it comes down to what they want to try and how much weight they like. Some of those GM's like heavier pistols and some like them light. Most of the top GM's have multiple pistols that they use and may change to depending on the match. If you think you may like a metal grip then you should try one on someone else's pistol if possible. If you think the metal grip will make you a better shooter than you should get one. If you buy one you can always sell it if you don't like it. Thanks, Eric
Well...pretty good advice. Try it...and see...
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Don't know if I'd go that far...
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I’m using mixed range Brass for my current 9Major Open gun. It’s setup with an EGW extractor that has a longer “nose”on the extractor hook. I’ve filed it down quite a bit to try and eliminate these little dings it makes in the middle of the web of the case when cycling in live fire. However, I don’t want to weaken the extractor too much, as I’ve had extractors fail before from doing the same thing.
So, my concern is this: should the dings in the case web concern me? Will they weaken the Brass more than usual for use in 9Major? Thoughts...?
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Well now...that’s news! Thanks! I’ve got CK grips on my gats right now. Loved the PT EVos I had...but one too many death-jammed magazines in the grip. For some reason I can’t get the mags stuck in the CK grips, no matter how crappy my reloads.
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Obviously there’s a wave of makers and users alike that are adopting the metal grips on their 2011 clones. However, anyone have any data on how many of the top-level Open guys are using them?
Nils isn’t, Max...nope. Eddie and Keith, nuh uh. Just wondering if they’ve figured out something, since they could have anything they want in their pistols. They still chose the plastic. I’m struggling with this on my Open gun. Got a metal grip...wondering if I should go back? Anyway...thoughts?
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2 hours ago, Hi-Power Jack said:
What did STI charge for the new slide and barrel ?
Nothing, factory Warranty. STI may not be the perfect company...but they’ve always been good to me with their CS on warranty issues.
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Hopefully I can help. Had exactly the same problem with my wife’s brand new Trubor. First shot off a rest or off-hand, didn’t matter...always 3” to the right of POA at 25 yds. Then every other round dead center POA. Videoed it with three 10 round strings out of three magazines. Printed one 3 round group at 3” to the right and one 27 round group dead center the bullseye.
Checked slide stop, barrel feet engagement, and barrel hood lockup. The barrel hood had tons of slop in the breech face cutout. Sent the gun to STI and they replaced the slide AND barrel. Problem solved....
YMMV
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JPL’s measurements are correct.
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1 hour ago, woodworks said:
I find Ramshot Competition to be very heat sensitive. 180 gr blue bullet 4.1 gr = 170 pf at 45 degrees. I need 4.5 gr at 85 degrees.
+1 on Ramshot Comp being a solid powder for .40 but...very temp sensitive. In stable climates it’s great.
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So posted the below thoughts in another thread in this section. Realized after reading it..."this should be it's own thread" so as not to hijack another thread. So, here it is below. Short-version...all the knowledge and wisdom already contained in the BEnos-verse is only further confirmed. Anyway...here you go:
I just went through testing a few powders and bullet weights, along with plated, jacketed, and Hi-tech coated bullets. Specifically Ramshot Competition, Titegroup, and N320. The bullets were Xtreme 200gr RNFP, Precision Delta 200gr RNFP, BBI 200gr TC, Rainier 180gr HP, and Xtreme 180gr RNFP. I used all three listed powders with all of the listed bullets and loaded them all to a 5-shot string average of 171-174pf as confirmed by shooting over my CED chronograph.
I also used two different 5" 2011-style pistols for each load. One had a factory STI barrel, the other a KKM barrel. So, I was really trying to be thorough and see what I could find out was my personal preference. I had the time and resources to do this because I just moved onto 24 acres of my own. Always dreamed of being able to experiment in depth.
Anyway, per this thread...within all of the similar weight bullets, loaded to identical power factor...I could not detect a noticeable difference in recoil and sight-tracking. Both slow fire and running drills on the timer. Specifically, all the 200gr loads felt reasonably similar and no noticeable difference than you might find from round to round of the same powder using mixed-headstamp brass. This held true with the 180gr loads as well.
After working up each load in small batches to confirm velocity, I loaded 100rds of each listed above for testing. In all of this testing, only two big observations stood out.
#1) There's a pretty noticeable difference in recoil and sight-tracking between 200gr and 180gr bullets. The 200gr being universally slower and softer recoil impulses. I'm not going to characterize better or worse...just slower and softer. Of course how your gun is sprung up matters as well. And for the record, I also tried 11lbs and 12.5lbs ISMI springs in every test too.
The 180gr bullets felt faster and sharper in recoil and sight-tracking. The slide cycled faster and the sights seemed to return sooner. I should state that I've been shooting 200gr loads for the last 10+ years. I thought I'd prefer the 200gr loads...I think I'm gonna spend some time with the 180grs and see. When slow-firing, maybe I prefer the 200s....maybe? When the timer is running...I'm leaning towards the 180s...specifically because it seems that my sights return faster. As to "feel" when the timer is running...not hugely noticeably different between 200 and 180...except my sights return faster with 180s. YMMV...
#2) Regardless of the claims..."coated" bullets smoked noticeably more during rapid fire strings and timer drills. This isn't a knock on them, but depepending on lighting conditions, could play into your decision. Smoke clouds definitely formed more with the coated bullets. In addition, they are messier when handling, loading, case-gauging, etc. I use nitrile gloves when loading, so it's not really important. However, it may be to you. Cost-wise..."coated" is the budget-minded winner. My research and bulk-pricing comparison puts it like this:
8.5-9 cents per with coated, 10-12 cents per with plated, and 12-13 cents per with jacketd. This assumes a minimum of 2000 pieces purchased and shipped at bulk rates.
So, I'm going to try plated 180gr for a while...because I happened to have 4000 pieces laying around from the 2008 panic-buying frenzy. After that...who knows?
Regarding powder...well...that'll have to keep for another post/thread. However...short version is: VVN320 is worth the extra money...to me. YMMV
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Sorry, didn't mean to hijack thread...rambling mind and old age. Moving post to separate thread. Sorry...
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Ok, been trying all the different types of grips for wide body 2011s. Right now, thinking the sandpaper/grit/aluminum oxide is the way to go with the sweat from humidity here in the Midwest. Tape cutouts don't work because I grip the piss out of the gun and end up moving the tape around on the grips. No matter how much prep I do before the install. The best I ever had was an old-school Scott grip from SV. Looking for something similar. Have seen some guy, Vince Pesuti on Nils FB page but had no luck finding contact info. Anyone have a lead or suggestion OTHER than "do it yourself"? I don't currently have time or interest in DIY for grips right now. Any help is appreciated!
cheers623!
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Definitely 8-32
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10 hours ago, Dr Mitch said:
Don Fraley
+1 on Don!
Will an STI HexTac make a good 9mm open gun?
in Open Pistols
Posted
Even better...also get their RTS2 package deal with a free mount too! Good company and nice folks!