cheers623
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Posts posted by cheers623
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Thanks guys, this helps some. Ming, thanks for the links, I think that I will try swapping the breechface. All the best,
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Hey guys,
I finally got the pistol from my FFL. It is a an Infinity 38super. Well, I decided I would like to shoot 38supercomp and while I was waiting for the the gun to come, I did my research, bought 1000 pieces of new Starline 38supercomp brass, bought a new Aftec 38supercomp extractor, and cooked up a few test loads for the gun. So, I get the gun home on my bench to detail strip and discover it has the IBS (interchangeable breech face system) NOT irritable bowel syndrome!!!! Anyway, the IBS system apparently is machined such that you CANNOT tension the extractor enough to get a grip on Starline 38supercomp rims. I have called and left a message at Infinity about swapping out the breechface but wanted to know if anyone has any knowledge about this issue. Is swapping out the breechface the only good solution to my dilemma? The guy who sold me the gun had no idea the gun was built this way when he sold it so I did not anticipate this wrinkle. Nevertheless, I feel like a jackass. I have also noticed that the few pieces of 38 super brass I have are SHORTHER in length than the starline 38 supercomp brass I have on hand. Is this also going to cause a problem with headspacing? If so, should i just ditch the 1000 pieces of supercomp brass and just keep the gun setup in 38 super? Please help me out!!!!! I wanna play with my new OPEN gun.......whaaaaaaaa.
Cheers623
DVC
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Thanks so much guys. That's what I needed to know. My wife and I have the bug bad for this open gun. My ole trusty 550B is gonna be crankin out a whole new brand of whoop ass now!!!!!
Cheers623
DVC
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Ok,
so I am going to start developing some loads for my Open gun I just bought and have seen a few threads describing the use of a .223 shellplate for .38 supercomp cases. Is this the best way to do it? I know the difference between the rim size of .38 super/.38supercomp. Will supercomp cases not agree with a standard Dillon .38 super shellplate? Any insight would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Cheers623
DVC
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Here is a picture link from gunbroker of the pistol I just bought.
http://san1.atlanta.gbhinc.com/GB/10058400...x3879829562.jpg
As far as brass costs, both 38 and 38sc are going to be expensive with the difference not being a huge factor for me. It is starting to sound like the 38 supercomp route might be the slightly better choice by a small margin with regard to reliability and magazine capacity. All of the replies so far have made me feel great about the choice to go with a 38/38sc gun over going the 9major route. That is not to bash 9major, only to say that it sounds like 38/38sc is a more forgiving and slightly more versatile cartridge for a total OPEN division newbie like me. Anyway, thanks for the feedback so far. It has given me a lot to bug my buddies about at the next match.
One last question about the difference between 38 and 38supercomp. What is different about how you set up the extractor? Is it just slightly more tension to account for the slightly smaller case rim of the 38sc or is there something different about the extractor hook position and engagement?
For those of you wondering about the gun I bought, I should explain my choice. I am a lefty with HUGE hands and EVERY single open gun I have test fired with a frame mounted dot chokes because my thumb blocks the ejection port and brass bounces back into the gun. People have handed me their gun and said "this thing never malfunctions" and then within 5 rounds.....CHOKE. So, I felt if I ever tried Open division it would have to be with a slide mounted dot. I look on gunbroker one day and VOILA!!! There it is.
Anyway, thanks for all the help.
Cheers
DVC
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So, is it really as simple as swapping extractors to switch to 38 supercomp? There is no problem with the breechface dimensions being slightly too large? This might be a nice way to go if it is indeed that simple. By the way, I could not help myself and PULLED THE TRIGGER.....damn 'BUY NOW' button got me all worked up. Anyway, I am now dying for info on this subject. I know there are million threads on this forum about ALL THINGS OPEN!!! I have started reading most of them. Please give more feedback about 38 super and/or converting to 38 supercomp. Thanks a bunch so far and keep it comin...
Cheers623
DVC
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Sorry, one last point of clarification. I was wondering about feed reliability from double stack mags also. This seems to be a recurring theme in the open caliber debate. Thanks again....
Cheers623
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Hello all,
I have posted a few questions before and got great feedback so HELP ME OUT PLEASE. I have my eye on a used .38 super in great shape for cheap. I have always shot limited division but am always intrigued by open. This looks like a great way to test the waters so to speak. However, most everyone I know is shooting 9major or 38 supercomp. My question is this, if the magazines are setup and tuned correctly, the gun is setup correctly with the extractor and ejector and spring weights adjusted, is .38 super any less reliable than either a good 9major or 38 supercomp gun? I know a few guys that shoot 38 super locally and they seem to run fine MOST OF THE TIME. But, is 38 super inherently less reliable than the other 2 setups? I understand fully the theory behind the other 2 cartridges but would love feedback from those of you with actual working experience. I would just like to try open division for giggles and this gun looks like an ieal opportunity. Thanks in advance for all the insight and feedback, past, present, and future.
All the best,
Cheers623
DVC
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Congrats Larry!!!! I was shooting with him last Sunday at Renton and watched him mow down targets with the new JPL blaster. He kicked my butt and a number of others as well. While I know that it is the Indian and not the Arrow, it is nice to see a guy get his hands on gear that helps him maximize his potential. By the way, the gun appeared to run great for him, as if you couldn't already tell. Hope to see you out on the range soon Larry.
Chris Olka
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Larry,
glad to see the wait finally paid off!!!! It looks like John built an amazing blaster for you. I have now seen 2 of JPL's built for shooting buddies and they all run like a scalded dog. I have a self defense gun John did some work on and I am very happy with it. Anyway, looks like I need to get my ducks in a row and save some $$$ to send to JPL!!!!
Hope to see you at Renton this EastershootinSunday!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Cheers!!
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Ok guys here we go.....
I have read alot on this forum but can't seem to find a consensus opinion on what I am looking for. I would like to buy a stoning fixture for trigger jobs and am not afraid to drop the money on a quality purchase. However, after all of the searching and reading I am still as confused as ever. I am no genius gunsmith but can and will read directions carefully and am willing to take the time to do things right the first time. I have gotten great feedback from a number of you guys about every other question I have ever asked so......for someone who has fairly decent mechanical aptitude and will spend the money up front rather than later on, do you guys(Merlin, HSMITh, etc, etc, etc) have a recommendation on a hammer and sear jig? I eagerly await the collective wisdom that will no doubt flow from this inquiry!!!!!!
Thanks in advance and all the best,
cheers623
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Hello all,
I just purchased a Millet 1-4X adjustable Tactical scope with the illuminated reticle for my flat-top Bushmaster AR-15. I was wondering if anyone had a few suggestions for rings or other mounting hardware they use. The tube is 30mm. Thanks in advance and happy holidays!!!
Cheers623@aol.com
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Thanks for the feedback so far. Keep it coming. Specifically anyone who has experience using factory ammo in their STI 2011 platforms. Thanks again in advance..............
Cheers!!!!!!!!!!!
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Hello all. I am in a bit of a quandry right now. I am about to purchase an STI Tactical double stack from Dawson. I was going to get it in .45 but after talking to Dave Dawson a bit about this he strongly suggested the .40 version. The reason behind this was his experience with .45 Hi-cap mag tubes bulging when loaded to capacity. He said because of the depth of the support ribs being shallower on the .45 mag tubes than on the .40 tubes they were not quite as rigid and demanded more attention and maintenance. This gun is going to be a defense gun and get used hard so I thought that was a valid point when considering which caliber. I should say at this point I am not trying to start a .40 vs .45 stopping power debate because I feel that loaded with high quality defense ammo they will both get the job done.
So, my question is this: in the STI Hi-cap platform specifically, what is your experience with reliability with regard to magazines and or pistol function. I had an STI Edge in .40 that was great but I long loaded everything for it to 1.185". I did rarely try factory ammo and it worked but I did not shoot much of this. Dave assures me that they set up the tacticals to fire factory .40 all the time and have proven reliability with the shorter ammo. Since I will be shooting factory defense ammo in this gun I want to KNOW that this is a non-issue.
I have always been under the impression that the .45 ACP round was inherently more reliable in the 1911 design because it was designed around that cartridge. That was the reason I was originally going to go with .45. However, in the STI double stack mags could the .45 be a finnicky critter? I do know that my tuned mags for my EDGE in .40 worked great and took a lot of abuse. Obviously the number of reliable .40 rounds fired in competition in the 2011 platform is staggering but most of this ammo is long-loaded.
The bonus of buying the gun in .40 would be similarity of feel between my limited gun and defense gun. Plus, I envision occasionally using this gun in matches to build my confidence with it under pressure. Having said that, I love the .45 round.
Any wisdom on this? I can't afford 1 of each so I am stuck trying to decide, .40 or .45. Any personal experience with the aforementioned issues would be GREATLY appreciated. I also want to point out that I am not taking issue with anything Dave has said but am looking for other opinions and views to back this up or not.
Thanks for your patience with a long and rambling post.
All the best,
Chris Olka
TY-54513
DVC
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Hey guys. I am in the process of picking parts for a limited gun build and was wondering if Infinity makes their own beavertail grip safeties. They look alot like Ed Brown Memory groove beavertails but when I called Infinity to ask this question I got no reply. I have called and emailed a number of times but have heard nothing back from them. Does anyone know the answer? Any help would be great. Thanks in advance.
Cheers.....
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Rick,
Chris Olka here, I have squadded with you a few times at Renton/Paul Bunyan/Marysville....Anyway, I shoot lefty and have REALLY BIG hands also. For the longest time I was having exactly the same problems with ejection. I also shoot straight thumbs and have an STI Edge. Well, after numerous malfs ONLY at matches I tried everything in the book, extractors, springs, powders, you name it. What I noticed was that when practicing at the range I never had problems but in a match when my grip was less than perfect I would get these problems. What I found was that the brass was banging off of my left thumb and occasionally getting trapped back in the gun during cycling. What I did was 2 things. I had the ejector face slightly angled to adjust the ejection pattern to be more towards 1 o'clock and less towards 2 or 3 o'clock AND slightly increase my powder charge so that even on the occasion when a piece of brass does hit my thumb it has enough juice to clear the ejection port anyway. I know this is less than ideal because I am shooting at 175-180 PF BUT, my gun functions much more reliably. Anytime I lower the PF on my loads I will start to encounter these malfs again so thats what I do. I hope that helps and see you at Area 1!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Good luck
DVC
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Hsmith,
thanks for the reply and from everyone else as well. I am shooting an Edge right now and have been happy with it for the most part. I am not looking to save money but instead just build a basic reliable 2011 style limited gun with a few slide profile options and fit the grip and controls to my personal tastes. Eventually I will probably get a sight tracker or a fat-free but for now I just want to build a gun that I like holding and looking at that shoots well. I read somewhere that Rob Leatham said basically you should buy or build a gun that you like to pick up and "play with" all the time because that is what will build the motor skills and familiarity that translates into faster times, etc, etc
So, my final question is if I buy a short block kit and install the sights, fire control group, and safties will I more or less be coming up with a good solid gun. I realize that after buying the remaining parts I would be within striking distance of a full build but I enjoy working on the guns I own and so hope to learn some in the process. However, if there is going to be alot of hassle beyond the parts installation I mentioned above then I suppose I am not ready for that yet. Any wisdom is greatly appreciated and thanks again for the previous replies.
All the best,
DVC
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Hello all. I am getting my feet wet doing a few home gunsmithing projects on a couple of 1911s I own. Fitting beavertails, thumb safties and installing sights is not a problem and I am getting ready to buy the Brownells tools and jig for doing trigger jobs. My question is: has anyone here bought an STI shortblock kit and built a limited gun with it? Their website says the frame, slide, barrel, and slidestop are all fitted at the factory so it would seem that completing the gun would entail installing the small parts and trigger group and then applying a finish. Is this the case and has anyone had good or bad luck with this. Thanks in advance for any feed back.
DVC
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Thanks everybody,
the Brownell's link is the exact ones I was looking for. Thanks for all of the answers.
All the best,
Chris
TY54513
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Hello all,
my wife is shooting an STI Trojan in 9mm. Reliability has been great with FMJ factory loads but have had some issues with JHP of various makes. A while back I saw a magazine article about a 9mm single stack magazine designed by Rob Leatham that has a pre-formed feed ramp in the front of the magazine tube. Apparently these are extremely reliable and feed very smoothly. However, I have had no luck finding the article again. If anyone who knows the magazines I am talking about could post a reply to this thread I would be extremely grateful. This is my wife's personal defense gun as well and I would like to get these magazines for her gun and try them. Thanks in advance....all the best.
Chris
TY54513
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Hello all and happy holidays. I am a lefty that shoots an STI .40 in limited division and have been doing pretty well. I have been very happy with my gun but have the occasional weird malfunction where a piece of brass gets trapped between the breechface and top of the barrel hood and jams up the gun. I have explored all of the usual symptoms such as extractor tension and adjusting spring weight to get a reliable cycle. My gun is sprung at 12# and I am making about a 170 pf. I have quite large hands and have paid close attention to my thumbs not making tight contact with the slide and slowing the cycle down to the point where it doesn't complete the full rearward movement. That is initially what everyone who saw the malfunctions would say they thought was happening but when I would try to force my thumbs to rub on the slide enough to jam the gun I could not make it happen on purpose or recreate the malfunction.
So, my question/theory is this: Because my hands are so big my top thumb of my grip is a good bit above the bottom of the ejction port. Could the brass be occasionally bouncing back into the ejection port off of my thumb and causing this malfunction? I do notice that when I am shooting in a static position just standing erect without moving I can feel the brass banging off of my thumb pretty hard. Would it be possible to file or shape the ejector so that the direction of the brass being ejected is more vertical and less horizontal thus avoiding hitting my thumb and bouncing back into the election port? I should say that I have this weird malfunction with every 1911 pattern gun I own but not with glocks or other style guns.
Any thoughts or advise on patterning your ejector would be greatly appreciated because I am ready to switch away from 1911 platforms because of this frustration. Thanks in advance and have a great New Year!
Case length variations in .38 super/supercomp...
in 9mm/38 Caliber
Posted
So, I have been gleaning information from everyone here on the BE forums about Open guns and loads. My question is this: In all of my reloading manuals the case length for .38 super/supercomp is listed at .900". I know that this is maximum case length but have noticed a wide variety of lengths in the brass I have been examining. Speer and PMC .38 super measures between .884"-.889". The new, unfired Starline .38 supercomp brass I have is all .895"-.896". I plan on using all of the same headstamp Starline .38 supercomp but how much variation is acceptable and does it matter that much? I wonder specifically about headspacing and other related issues. Any thoughts?
Cheers623
DVC