cheers623
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Posts posted by cheers623
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I’ve been shooting and dry-fire practicing with this gun for about 9 months. Love it. However, last night while dry-fire practicing, I racked the slide after inserting one of my practice mags and noticed a pronounced drag on the slide. I opened the slide and noticed the ejector is now bent upward and dragging on the bottom of the slide. I’ve been shooting and cleaning and inspecting this thing and had no problems until now. Any advice? Since it’s part of the FCU…am I screwed?
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Dave Dawson told me that the surface friction of the 45acp on the inside of the mag tubes slows the ammo column from moving up fast enough to ensure reliable feeding. He talked me out of buying anything larger than 40sw for reliability.
I ignored him…and purchased a number of 2011s in 45…and had many problems with feeding. Not chambering…feeding with the slide overrunning the base of the round. Only reliable in shorter mags. 126mm only…and then still inconsistent.
Not trying to start an argument…but…thought I’d throw that out for your consideration
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Just picked one up for my new X5 Legion. I have huge hands (XL-XXL glove size) and this is MUCH improved for me than the medium sized grip module!!! My biggest complaint about the medium was I didn’t have enough room for my support hand grip on it. While the Large size isn’t huge…it’s quite noticeable. An unexpected benefit is that the beavertail doesn’t rub the heck out of my thumb knuckle either. I’ll probably buy another one to send off for silicon Carbide treatment and just sell the basically new medium size grip that came with the gun.
I hadn’t seen much discussion on these Large grips, so thought I’d post for fellow “Baseball Glove” hands folks!
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Any experience with any of these compared to the other options?
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Just got a P10F Competition Ready model and have been breaking it in. Within the first 50 rounds I’ve had failure to reset the trigger issues. The gun fires a live round, slide cycles enough to eject spent casing and load a new round into the chamber…but dead trigger that stays all the way back when released. It’s happened 5-6 times per magazine. If the slide moves far enough rearward to load a new round, the trigger should definitely reset. So…anyone else have this issue?
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On 10/15/2021 at 9:08 AM, Hvansky said:
That’s a gorgeous gun !
This is Ben’s first open gun build and he really did a great job! It looks even better since he finished it. I’m thinking about begging him to do machine work for my next Open build….please please please Ben??????!!!!
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Sorry, I should say further that it depends on the sear stud on the safety paddle. If the engagement and disengagement positions are positive and there’s no movement of the hammer when the safety is on and the trigger is pulled, you’re good to go.
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As long as its not rubbing the undersides of the slide when disengaged it shouldn’t be an issue and depends entirely on the individual fire control components used. Hope that helps.
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On 8/11/2021 at 5:13 AM, Rasmilling said:
I recently got my STI milled for a Leupold DPP, before that i had a frame mount.
I dont really feel that big of a difference
in theory the frame mount might be easyer to track... But i dont notice it.
I find it a bit easyer to pick up the dot, since it is mounted lower and will be where your irons would have been. Thats feels more natural to me. But again... Not that big of a difference.
Tracking the dot is no problem with the right load.
Who did the milling for your slide to mount the dot?
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All 1911/2011 barrels are fitted to the slide and to some extent the slide stop in the frame. Probably cheapest way is to have the barrel cut back to your desired length. That’s if you don’t care about having a threaded barrel. Otherwise, any competent 1911 gunsmith can fit a new barrel to your slide. Price will be determined by brand of barrel and the associated fitting/labor costs.
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19 hours ago, WaynePatrick said:
Does anyone know which magwell is notched for the Dawson Blue Steel wedge mainspring housing.
Want to add to my DVC L.
Thx
Pretty sure the Dawson Ice is
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One of the later changes was that they started cutting the slides for LPA adjustable rear sights instead of the Bomar sights. Not any less functional, just different. I’d still recommend any Trojan if someone was interested in a 1911 in 9mm or .40. , regardless of vintage. Solid guns.
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Passed this morning peacefully. Gave a lot to the sport and contributed a lot here. Great friend and even better person. He’ll be missed by a lot of people. RIP Gale.
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Thanks for posting! Your hands are as big as mine! Damn!
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9 hours ago, 22h2 said:
thanks everyone, its hard for me to shoot when I feel my hand is wedged, I ordered the Taran Tactical, it seemed to be a small foot print.
Tell us what you think when you get it. I’ve noticed that the Taran Tactical looks identical to the older SV model. Which would make sense, since Taran used to be an SV sponsored shooter.
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Sorry to be a downer but....if you’ve got really big hands like me, the Dawson Big Hands is still too cramped. It depends on your hand size. Mine are XXL Glove sized. Old SVI magwells were fine for me but they are also smaller Funnel. Just FYI
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I’ve used TT basepads on 1st and 2nd gen STI tubes with only occasionally having to do tiny bit filing on the flanges at the bottom of the tubes to get them to slide into the retaining slots on the pads. YMMV
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As I recall, Wilson Combat used to offer a “drop in” beavertail. Yep...here it is:
https://shopwilsoncombat.com/Drop-In-Grip-Safeties/products/38/
Not what I’d consider ideal, but another option. Also, in addition to the above mentioned EGW part (always top notch) Wilson also offers a .220 radius beavertail as well on the WC website. In fact, when SPringfield used to offer a wide variety of custom services, they had an option to upgrade the beavertail to the Wilson Combat versions.
Hope this helps give give more options.
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The Tanfoglio is a great gun but....if you’re gonna put any serious amount of 10mm thru your chosen pistol, DW hands down, all day, every day. The 1911 has proven time and again that it’s more than up to the stress of the 10mm cartridge over the long haul.
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I don’t have a picture but have seen it a number of times...always looks a bit like a Franken-gun. Kinda cheap, even if well built. I’d either chop the frame to match and add weight with a tungsten guide rod...or save up and buy a slab sided slide to match the frame. YMMV
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Sometimes that audible click sound when pulling the trigger during take up is the disconnector moving in the frame hole. I’ve had that happen on a number of trigger jobs and one of the ways to eliminate it is the EGW ball-head disco that you fit to the frame hole. It’s a bit of a pain in the ass...but worth the hassle.
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22 hours ago, SteelCityShooter said:
I just got one of these from Amazon and, at first try, it seem to be comfortable and well made and certainly very reasonably priced. A major attraction is it's ambidextrous and I'm left-handed.
That’s the same thing for me! Being lefty sucks because if you don’t like a holster...no one wants to buy it! My only advice on the DeSantis is to loctite the adjustment hook position. On IWB holsters for lefties, there’s always an inadvertent chance of hitting the mag release. I did it on a number of very expensive big-name holsters for my P365. The manufacturers had to eventually admit that they hadn’t thought about that possibility and they refunded my money both times. This DeSantis can let that happen if the hanger screw is loose. I just adjust it properly and then loctite and check it every few weeks. No problems
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I now use only 19# mainsprings for trigger jobs and no problems at all with CCI SPP. However, I used to install 17# mainsprings and would have 1 or two light strikes out of 500 round batches. It would happen enough that my only solution was to install extended firing pins when using 17# springs. Then...no problems anymore. However, I prefer the crispness I get when using 19# mainsprings for trigger jobs and can go 1.75# pulls with no extended firing pin and get 100% ignition with CCI.
Hope that helps.
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2 hours ago, tomjerry1 said:
Okay, it was NOT the fault of the Nitro Fin slide stop, and yes, you would normally have you thumb on the pad of the slide stop. Just my poor attempt at asking a question about the SS falling out. I obviously didn't have my thumb on the pad, I was in the middle of a reload when the wheels came off the cart. Good suggestion on the length of the plunger that contact the SS, just happen to have another one.
Another possibility here...
I’ve seen shooters that index their trigger finger on the side of the frame (safe practice!) while reloading and inadvertently put their finger right on the top of the slide stop pin and accidentally depress it while they’re releasing the slide. This pressure allows the slide stop to pop out when the cutout on the slide passes by the tab on the slide stop. I’m left handed and had this happen to me many times until I filed the end of the slide stop pin flush with the frame of the pistol. Hope this helps!
Bent X5 Legion Ejector
in Sig
Posted
Thanks for the replies. I called Sig and they said “send it in, it’s under warranty”. Replacing all my TTI base pads and going to some other option.