RodeoClown

that's really helpful, thanks to all responders!

I keep hearing about the tapering of the return spring carrier ... Does anybody maybe have a picture of such a tapered return spring carrier, or could maybe explain where one tapers it? Much appreciated.

This is what I use ... It was pretty easy to make, fits into the bottom of the tool box I keep my revolvers in, and holds 50 moonclips.

+1 for the Speedsec holster. I use it both for both my 686 and 627 and need to make no adjustments whatsoever. If locked it definitely won't fall out, if unlocked it should pass the 'hop test'. I've tried it several times and the gun never fell out. Not that I'm at the level of shooting where having the fastest holster makes a difference, but I seem to spend an inordinate amount of time trying to figure out what the best equipment is and I would bet the Speed Sec the fastest holster on the market. I just couldn't see how one could make a holster that has any less retention and still be secure.

I bobbed the hammer on mine and I didn't find it hurt reliability.

I'm using a Speedsec/Extreme holster for my 686, and I think it's great! It's fast, adjustable in all directions and you could also use it for any N-frame revolver.

Nice! How are you shooting with it? Do you find the extra barrel length makes a considerable difference in accuracy?

I like the idea of the case mouth deburring tool. I assume that Brownell's sells those. Also, as I don't own a dremel, maybe this is the time to get one. What dremel bit is that?

I'm going to order that Brownell's tool that haras suggested. Is it pretty straigtforward as to how to champfer a cylinder or are there things I should specifically watch out for?

Thanks everybody for their input! Gary, as to the gun, it's brand new, I picked it up and shot it for the first time yesterday (The good news is at least it shot where it was supposed to. The last 627 I bought didn't even do that). Also, I don't think it's the moonclips, they're Hearthco. The bullets are 158gr jacketed RN Berry's and the brass is Remington. Dave personally told me that Remington is the best brass along with Federal for his moon clips. Also, I've been using the exact same combination on my 686 and it works perfectly. Like you suggested, I cleaned out the cylinder with a chamber brush mounted on a drill, and it took off the burr somewhat. Now they're dropping in, even though not quite as smoothly as on my 686. I'd like to now go the champfering route, I think that should take care of the rest of the issue. I've read on this forum that people have widely varying opinions as to how much to champfer and what tools to use. My sense is better too little than too much. What do you guys (and girls) think? What tool to use and how to best do it?

I just got a 627 today, but when I tried to drop in a moon clip, it wouldn't go in smoothly. I checked the charge holes individually, and on a couple of them there must be some kind of burr because I have a hard time getting the bullet in and out. I figured rather than starting to file around on the charge hole, maybe I should invest in a champfering tool from Brownells and champfer the holes. But then, since on six of the eight holes the bullets do drop in, maybe I should just take a fine file and file the edge of the remaining two holes to make the bullet go in smoothly as it seems the charge holes are already champfered from the factory, but only slightly. What to do? Also, if you guys feel I should go for the champfering option, could you let me know how to champfer the holes and what tools to buy? I have a couple of other revolvers so I figure it could be worth the investment. Thanks.

Again, thanks everybody for their input. Today, I spoke to customer service at S&W and they will send me a regular sized hand. My hand was 90 thousands, the hand they will send me is 94 thousands, an oversized hand is 98 thousands. They told me that a regular sized hand should do the job. Based on what I read, I also checked the extractor star, but it doesn't seem to have too much wear on it, so I have a feeling that just fitting the hand should do it. I'll let you guys know what happens when I get it back. Again, thanks everybody.

Everybody thanks for their input! I think I'd like to try the above suggestion. I measured the thickness of the hand (90 thousands), will call S&W tomorrow, and order a hand just a little bit thicker. Also, I tested several of my revolvers in SA mode and all of them were late on several charge holes, though not all of them. I also tried to understand how timing works, so I watched the hand with the side plate off as I pulled the trigger. It seems as the hand pushes the ratchet up, it gets pushed to the right against the right side of the window frame. So, if I had a slightly thicker hand, it would push the cylinder over just a little bit quicker putting the gun back into timing. Did I understand that right? But on the other hand, if the hand were too thick it would start hanging up on the ratchet, right? Also, somebody mentioned something about broken springs. The way I understand it from watching the hand, there are no springs involved in the timing of the gun. Or are there? Again, thanks for all the input.

I didn't do too well on the Smith and Wesson website (They didn't accept my e-mail address, so I couldn't become a member), so I'm back here ... I'd like to give it a try to time the gun myself. It seems a hand costs less than fifteen dollars, so even if I mess it up a couple of times, at leastif it happens again, I'll know how to fix it. I've done my action job myself, so I have a little bit of an idea of what goes on inside a revolver. Might somebody be willing to walk me through as to what to do?

Thanks for the reply! I did that. But the problem I had before still remains: When I pull the trigger slowly, there's supposed to be that second click, meaning the cylnder stop is engaged, and on most charge holes it's not there. When the hammer falls, the cylinder still turns just that extra bit before engaging. I think that's how part of the bullet hit the forcing cone and splattered back at me. What should I do now?

On shots where I pull the trigger slowly, the timing is now late. I got hit with lead twice and then a fellow shooter told me that it might be because it is out of timing and to check the forcing cone. It had lead marks on it. If I pull the trigger fast enough, the cylinder has enough momentum and the cylinder stop engages in time and everything is fine, but like I said, when I pull the trigger slowly is when the problem occurs. I don't want to send the gun to a smith because it takes them so long to send it back. Could you guys please tell me what I have to do to get the gun back into timing? ~Julian

Techplate was recommended to me by Randy Lee. That's where he sends his guns to get chromed. www.techplate.com. I definitely trust his opinion.

Hopalong, thank you for the insightful posts. I feel like I'm in a similar place. I burnt out in two sports, skiing and playing golf. When I grew up I skied up to a hundred times a year, as to golf, I did it whenever I wasn't skiing, and sometimes even on the same day. Both of those sports were more important to me than school. I was hoping to turn pro in either of those disciplines, but by the time I was fifteen I pretty much hated both of those sports and I doubt I will ever ski or play golf again. I started shooting roughly a year ago and started going down the same path. After work, I'd either dry fire or go to the range, and after that I'd read posts on the forums here, sometimes until four or five in the morning. I had to master this game in the quickest time possible. About two months ago, the desire to ever touch a gun again pretty much completely left me. I have now made a commitment to myself that the only time I will ever pick up a gun again, even for dry firing, is if I really want to, and not from some sense of trying to improve, or what have you. Maybe it's one of those zen things, if you truly let it go, it might come back, and if not, well, then it won't. I'm not sure what has a guy like Tiger Woods hit a thousand golf balls a day and not burn out. I'm starting to believe maybe it's something innate to the person, and not something somebody can learn. I know from experience that self discipline will only get you so far. Beyond that something else seems to be involved. Maybe an acceptance that you either are or are not meant to get to a certain level, or do certain activities. I know this is a bit esoteric, but that's where I am right now. And I have read enough self help books, done enough therapy and gotten to know myself well enough to know that this goes beyond some kind of mental block or what have you. Rather, I feel that maybe I don't have that much control over this life or where it might go. Truthfully, though, I also feel that I’m at a much freer place than I have ever been. Only it also seems to mean that I don't really get to decide exactly which way my life is going either. But looking at my past and how it turned out I probably, or almost surely, never did. The only thing that guides me these days is a vague inner sense of direction, that, from a rational point of view, very often makes very little sense at all. But there’s a sense of excitement and innate joy of living that I hadn’t experienced before. On some days, though, when I look at my life from an objective, right brain place, I think I must be out of my mind, and maybe I am. And who knows, maybe that’s a good place to be. Except, sometimes I get very scared. And, as far as shooting is concerned, it might mean that I’ll never get to be a GM, or even return to a range ever again. But then again, that might have happened anyway, but probably with a lot more headache involved.

Ah, old school!

For reloading practice snap caps are not very good, because they're usually a lot lighter than the real thing. If you have a reloader (or a friend with a reloader) just make bullets with no primers. As to dry fire practice, you don't need either. I've heard of people dry firing over a hundred thousand times without their firing pin ever breaking. In the unlikely case that your firing pin should ever break, a firing pin costs a little over ten dollars at Brownell's and takes less than five minutes to replace. I don't know who came up with that myth of needing snap caps for dry firing, but at least as far as a revolver goes they had no idea what they were talking about.

Do you happen to know where you can buy one?

Julian - take the electrical tape off of it...:-) mike sousa Mike, right, and the bullets come out at the side with the hole in it, but when I open the cylinder there's holes on both sides, now what do I do? Electrical tape! Plus, I like the yellow and black striping. Sting like a butterfly look like a bee.

I'm wondering if most people shoot IPSC with the four inch or five inch barrel 625s. Does the one inch extra sight radius make that much extra difference for increased accuracy? My dilemma comes because I wanted to buy a Jerry Miculec 5", but found out there's only a four inch available now. So I'm wondering if it's worth it to go through the trouble of purchasing the regular 5 inch, and changing the grip and the front sight and have the cylinder machined for moonclips (I assume the regular models don't come machined for moon clips). Also, is the Jerry Miculek model a better gun, (i.e. a performance center type deal with handselected barrels, and other work for better accuracy?) Any input is much welcomed. ~Julian

learning lots! Thanks guys.

thanks for the pictures ... I had made a hammer like that, but I messed it up because I wanted to try to shorten the trigger pull length by rounding off a couple of edges. It kind of worked, but I'd have to pull the trigger really hard for the cylinder to come around quickly enough. And then other stuff started to go wrong. Anyway. Long story.