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Options for dies?


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On 1/9/2017 at 11:59 AM, Sarge said:

IMHO the competition micrometer $80 die is a waste of money for pistol. I tried one and my oal was all over the place. BUT I did get the Redding Pro seater die for $30 from midway. Course threads into the tool head and very fine threads for tuning. 

Reminds me. I contacted Redding about oal concerns with the micrometer die and asked if it would hurt anything if I installed a lighter spring, they wrote back that a lot of folks shooting lead just run them with the spring removed & this is the way I have been operating ever since. 

 

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3 hours ago, BeerBaron said:

Buy the lee dies. They do the 'rough' adjustment with the die body but the fine adjustment is done with an adjustable insert. So much easier to adjust and cleaning has never been an issue for me. I love most dillon gear but the lee dies are great. A full lee die set is about the same as an expensive micrometer seating die. The lee seating die also doesn't mark up the nose on lead bullets and lee will also make custom seating stems for you for about $5 for any bullet profile so that it seats properly by the shoulder. 

If you buy the 4 die set you also get the lee factory crimp die which also has that micrometer 'style' adjustment for crimp. So much easier than doing it with the die body and finding it keeps changing slightly after you tighten the lock ring...

Aint that the truth. I ran Dillon dies on my 550, they worked but when the 550 sold the Dillons went with it and my new 650 runs a Lee die set.  The Lee's are flat out easier to adjust, work just as well for half the price, depriming pin is in a friction fit - slip collar, along with the sizing/depriming die sizing down a little further.

Edited by SCTaylor
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  • 2 weeks later...

 

On 1/11/2017 at 5:12 AM, BeerBaron said:

Buy the lee dies. They do the 'rough' adjustment with the die body but the fine adjustment is done with an adjustable insert...

I find the 'micro' adjustments on the Lee dies to be very useful as compared to loosening the large lock ring and making fine adjustments there. 

Just my $0.0001 cents being a new reloader

Edited by muncie21
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59 minutes ago, muncie21 said:

 

I find the 'micro' adjustments on the Lee dies to be very useful as compared to loosening the large lock ring and making fine adjustments there. 

Just my $0.0001 cents being a new reloader

You are not alone. I use anything with fine thread adjustments over Dillon any day!

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On 1/11/2017 at 5:12 AM, BeerBaron said:

Buy the lee dies. They do the 'rough' adjustment with the die body but the fine adjustment is done with an adjustable insert. So much easier to adjust and cleaning has never been an issue for me. I love most dillon gear but the lee dies are great. A full lee die set is about the same as an expensive micrometer seating die. The lee seating die also doesn't mark up the nose on lead bullets and lee will also make custom seating stems for you for about $5 for any bullet profile so that it seats properly by the shoulder. 

If you buy the 4 die set you also get the lee factory crimp die which also has that micrometer 'style' adjustment for crimp. So much easier than doing it with the die body and finding it keeps changing slightly after you tighten the lock ring...

Do you use the Lee or EGW undersize die for .40 or just the standard full size sizing die that comes in the set? I'm trying to find out if buying the U die is worth it.

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8 hours ago, Superpipe9 said:

Do you use the Lee or EGW undersize die for .40 or just the standard full size sizing die that comes in the set? I'm trying to find out if buying the U die is worth it.

I don't load any 40 atm but I use the regular lee sizing die in 9mm (which can suffer the same bulge issues as 40) and 38 super. I've not had the need for the u die. I did try it in 9mm for a while but for me it wasn't needed. 

I would try the regular die set first and only run the u die if you have either setback issue or lots of case gauge failures. 

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6 hours ago, BeerBaron said:

I don't load any 40 atm but I use the regular lee sizing die in 9mm (which can suffer the same bulge issues as 40) and 38 super. I've not had the need for the u die. I did try it in 9mm for a while but for me it wasn't needed. 

I would try the regular die set first and only run the u die if you have either setback issue or lots of case gauge failures. 

What is a U die?

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49 minutes ago, IGOTGLOCKED said:

So I'd the case is sized further down (for the Glock issue) do you feel it in the stroke and does if then affect a smooth stroke?

You better use good lube with a Udie. :) If properly lubed with lanolin based like Dillon or homemade it is no less smooth than any other die. But fail to lube or cut lube too thin you will instantly feel the difference. 

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16 minutes ago, Sarge said:

You better use good lube with a Udie. :) If properly lubed with lanolin based like Dillon or homemade it is no less smooth than any other die. But fail to lube or cut lube too thin you will instantly feel the difference. 

Thx Top, interesting option. Perhaps this might take care of the mystery misfits..?

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1 hour ago, IGOTGLOCKED said:

So I'd the case is sized further down (for the Glock issue) do you feel it in the stroke and does if then affect a smooth stroke?

The u die doesn't size any further down than the regular lee die, it sizes 'smaller'. 

All the lee sizing dies (either u die or regular) do size closer to the case head than Dillon dies as the sizing ring is right at the mouth of the die and doesn't have the same level of lead in or chamfer at the mouth. 

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2 minutes ago, BeerBaron said:

The u die doesn't size any further down than the regular lee die, it sizes 'smaller'. 

All the lee sizing dies (either u die or regular) do size closer to the case head than Dillon dies as the sizing ring is right at the mouth of the die and doesn't have the same level of lead in or chamfer at the mouth. 

Got it, thx Top. I have some that will not p&s for me an don't understand why as they are the same oal & crimp as others.... Perhaps this could be a possible solution...

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1 hour ago, BeerBaron said:

The u die doesn't size any further down than the regular lee die, it sizes 'smaller'. 

All the lee sizing dies (either u die or regular) do size closer to the case head than Dillon dies as the sizing ring is right at the mouth of the die and doesn't have the same level of lead in or chamfer at the mouth. 

EGW website seems to say theirs is different allowing lower sizing

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Take a round that won't p&s and colour it with a blue sharpie. Then drop it in and turn it a little. Remove and inspect. 

If its the bullet itself it touching then its likely oal or bullet profile issue. 

Case mouth touching - crimp issue. 

Middle of case - likely oversize bullet or damaged case or not resized small enough - u die can help here. 

If its a ring near the case head then a u die 'may' help. But some brass gets a decent ring in the base that cannot be sized out without a push through die or roll sizer. Some just need to be tossed. 

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11 minutes ago, Sarge said:

EGW website seems to say theirs is different allowing lower sizing

I could be wrong but my understanding was they meant lower sizing compared to other dies like Dillon. 

The regular lee sizer does go lower than Dillon as in the Dillon dies (and hornady from memory) the carbide sizing ring is slightly recessed from the die body and it has a tapered/chamfered lead in to help guide cases into the die if they come up to meet it slightly off center. 

The lee has the carbide sizing ring basically flush with the die body but still has a very slight chamfer at the entrance so it's possible the die that lee make for egw has that squared up which would make it size lower. If I can find my 9mm I die later I'll compare it with one of my regular lee 9mm sizers. 

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13 hours ago, BeerBaron said:

Take a round that won't p&s and colour it with a blue sharpie. Then drop it in and turn it a little. Remove and inspect. 

If its the bullet itself it touching then its likely oal or bullet profile issue. 

Case mouth touching - crimp issue. 

Middle of case - likely oversize bullet or damaged case or not resized small enough - u die can help here. 

If its a ring near the case head then a u die 'may' help. But some brass gets a decent ring in the base that cannot be sized out without a push through die or roll sizer. Some just need to be tossed. 

Thanks BB, I will do that as I was baffled as to why some with the same oal & crimp p&s and some don't. I had even run them back through the seating and crimp stations.

Cheers!

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Note the EGW appears nearly flush with the bottom of the dies and has less mouth cut into it than the LEE standard die. Not a whole lot, but there is a difference. And of course the Dillon is well, a Dillon. Really rounded mouth and recessed pretty far up in the die.

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I talked to a tech at Redding who was extremely knowledgeable and patient. The guy I spoke to last week was not a tech and was just filling in while the others were at the Shot Show...

First I suspect everyone (except me) knows the Pro Series dies are made specifically for progressive presses... What I did learn regarding the differences between the standard Pro Series seating die and the Pro Series Competition seating die is the std Pro die does NOT have the micrometer. And the inside of the Comp die has tighter tolerances than the std Pro die to assist alignment with the case & projectile as it is seated. Also the Comp die for straight wall cases also does NOT have the "sleeve" that slides over the projectile and case to align the projectile and case prior to seating as does the dies for bottle neck cases...

Cheers!

 

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On 1/10/2017 at 11:29 AM, dillon said:

If you are referring to the external die body threads, the 7/8-14 thread per inch count was pretty much standard by the 1950s. Ideal/Lyman Products used a 5/8-30 TPI die from about the turn of the century, but RCBS popularized the 7/8-14 TPI, and everyone has followed suit. For the larger diameter cartridges it is necessary. Other than the Square Deal B, Dillon reloading equipment is threaded for the standard 7/8-14 TPI dies, so customers can use the dies they often already have.

Understood, thx! It's just that the course threads are extremely difficult for fine adjustments. Why can't Dillon offer a "version" of one with a micrometer?

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