loadmaster parts to have on hand?

[obsessiveshooter]

Hi all,

I just picked up a lee pro 1000 and a Lee loadmaster, both complete, for $200. I plan on selling the pro 1000 and keeping the loadmaster. I'll finally be in a progressive for just about $100. I'm kinda stoked about the deal I got.

I'll be loading .40 and 9mm, at a ratio of about 4:1.

Questions:

Since the calibers share the same shellplate and primer size, should I just forgo the auto case feeder and feed cases by hand so I don't have to swap anything on the press to change calibers (besides the 5-hole part with the dies)? Or am I not understanding something here?

What parts would be critical to keep extras of on hand?

Any youtube links you would share related to keeping the priming system running smoothly?

[Rugerglock]

Check out these two sights forums.loadmastervideos.com forums

Loadmastervideos.com

[jmorris]

You don't say what calibers you intend to load for. I was given a basket case LM a few months ago and worked on it until I was able to load 100 rounds in under 4 min with it.

I would not even mess with the priming system it comes with and order the latest version from Titan, while your at it get some extra flippers, they don't cost much and if you need one but don't have it you will be dead in the water.

[Reshoot]

Congrats on your purchase! Great buy!!

The priming system on both the Pro 1000, and the Loadmaster , can be made to run 100% reliable. I am living proof! Having said that, I set my Pro 1000's up for just one caliber. These presses are not that good at caliber changes . . . honestly, takes too long to get the changeover running right. If I were you, I would set one press up for 9mm and the other for 40 S&W. Of course, I would be more than happy to take one off your hands . . . seriously.

If you are a Facebook user I recommend you join the Lee Reloading & Bullet Casting group. All the help and advise you'll ever need. Unlike here, you don't get people chiming in on how bad the equipment is, when they fail to make them run good.

[dave33]

Definitely use the case feeder for both 9 and 40, it will speed your production way up. I mainly load those two calibers on my Loadmaster and changing between the two is only a 2 min job at most. Going from 9 to 40 only takes removing the bottom nut on the small case feeder and taking it off, 2-3 half turns to loosen the bolt that holds the case slider feed rod and remove it, replace the small case slider with the large case slider and tighten the case slider feed rod back up, then put on the large case feeder and tighten the bottom bolt up. Switch the top turret out, move the powder measure over and you are done.

One thing you wont find in the directions for loading .40 on a Loadmaster, the small case slider is too small and the large is just a little too tall, the only way to make it work properly is to use a grinder and bevel a small V shaped channel in the top of the large case slider, once you do it works like a charm.

I dont know why everyone has such a hard time priming on the press, its about my favorite part of using it, love the ability to adjust seating depth. If you will simply work the handle slowly and smoothly it will prime just fine.

Do yourself a HUGE favor, get one of the new Lee Auto Drum powder measures and toss the pro auto disks. That will give you a measure that does not leak, is super accurate, far more adjustable, and easier to set up.

When you set the press up make sure it is as stable as possible. I put a rod going from the bench to the floor under the press since all the pressure is on the down stroke, keeps everything very stable. When you set your dies up do so with a piece of brass in all stations, especially for the powder flair and bullet seating stations, but it will also effect the primer seating depth a little too. Also, the first 3-4 rounds and the last 3-4 rounds off the press will have a slightly shorter OAL since all the stations are not full, it may or may not matter depending on your load.

Titan reloading is your best bet for parts as they usually have the best prices, reasonable and fast shipping. I keep on hand a couple extra index flippers, couple primer pin springs, crank slide assembly, and shell plate nut o-ring. I probably have some other extra stuff but thats what comes to mind.

If you order from titan I would also highly recommend the new folding primer tray, way easier to use than the round ones.

If you keep the press stable, clean and lubed properly it runs great, just dont get into a huge hurry loading and it will serve you well. Work the handle slowly on the downstroke as the wedge bar is pushing the primer into its pocket over the priming pin and it will prime well for you.

[obsessiveshooter]

Thanks for the advice everyone!

I already have a auto drum I've got set for .40, and an auto disk set up for 9mm. I'll use the two auto disks I just acquired to set up for .380 and .223, which I'll probably just keep loading on my lee turret press I've been using.

I'm excited to spend just an hour loading 500 rounds, instead of having to spread it out over a few evenings. I'm cheap and I love to tinker and customize, so Lee is the perfect brand for me.

[Sandbagger123]

i have the exact setup and load 9 and 40 in my LM. if you have only one 5 turret get another as swapping and resetting dies is a pain. use the case feeder and if you have the large get the small or vice versa. using the large for small will make the 9mm cases drop and tip.buy the whole set with tubes and all off of ebay. Get the case collator if you don't have one i just use the large case slider for both.

i have both the old grey and new black priming system and find the old grey one a lot more reliable than the black. the problem with the grey is the slider are not available anymore.

make sure its mounted to a solid table. i also have pro 1k for 45 and use the lee mounting plate for both. makes sure to check the turret nut and shellplate nut frequently for looseness. the shell plate nut need to be a little loose as too tight will lock up the rotation. grease the shell plate, index rod and pivot points. oil the ram tube.

LUBE your cases, especially 9mm and the LM will run like a sewing machine. i have found that my LM prefers certain primers. with that brand i can load a thousand rounds with no sideways primers. other brands i would get a sideways primers often. use the 4th hole as a seater only and the 5th put a FCD and let it do the final crimp.

i used the auto disk for years and just got a auto drum. i find the auto disk is just fine if the range it throws works for you. i bought the auto drum to get more flexability as i will be loading for a open gun soon and to just try it out.

i have loaded tens of thousands of rounds on my LM. had to change a few parts but they were free or cheap. i am always waiting for something big to break and then upgrade to a 650 or 1050 but so far its still working so see no reason to waste money. also when you are loading on it, sit or stand at the 7 0 8 oclock position behind the press and this will make it easier to look into the case for powder. mine is set up to load sitting though its a personal preference .

good luck on it

[BeerBaron]

Keep on hand a spare primer feed assembly and primer slides. Say 2 Indexer flippers and one indexer rod too. I also kept a few case feed parts on hand.

[obsessiveshooter]

I've had some time to play with everything and both presses seem to be in working order. The seller included a bunch of spare parts. I think I'll keep both and leave the pro 1000 set up for 9mm and the loadmaster set for 40. I just need to mount all my presses to identical plates so I can use one at a time. Real estate is precious on my bench.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

[PiratePast40]

As far as spares, I've got an extra primer pin and spring, and decapping pin.But in approximately 10,000 rounds, haven't had to replace them. Others have commented about breaking the powder chain, but I haven't had that happen either.The loadmastervideo forum mentioned several times is a wealth of information. Can't say enough about the mods from Mikes Reloading. I have the billet turret, stabilizer and shake brake. Since i haven't had any problems with the priming system, am using the stock parts. You do need to do a good cleaning every few thousand rounds to clear out any debris on and under the priming pin.

Will second the recommendation to keep parts properly lubed, especially the bottom of the case slider. After proper cleaning and lube, the ram will fall down by itself, so don't let go of the handle.

[Sandbagger123]

I've had some time to play with everything and both presses seem to be in working order. The seller included a bunch of spare parts. I think I'll keep both and leave the pro 1000 set up for 9mm and the loadmaster set for 40. I just need to mount all my presses to identical plates so I can use one at a time. Real estate is precious on my bench.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

I would sell the pro 1k and take the money and buy the part to convert 9mm. The 5th hole is useful for separate seat and crimp. Also pro 1k,s in 9mm are not known for reliability . All you will need are dies, case feeder, case slider and turret. About 80 in parts.

I only bought the pro 1k in 45 because it would cost the same to convert my small pistol to 45 and I also don't shoot much 45.