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Trigger Problem: Tripple Fire


coframer

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Recently purchased a G19 2nd Gen. It had a New York Trigger in it so I replaced it with a 3rd Gen trigger(5lb connector) that I had. Fired probably 300 rounds thru it. Today I went out to shoot, pulled trigger fired one shot when I went to release the trigger three more rounds came on out.? So I tried again, same thing and again same thing?

I then took apart the trigger, nothing seemed bent or out of place the connector seemed fine and spring was good. Re assembled went back down to the range fired 50 rounds no problems.

Question: So is the 3rd gen trigger innerchangeable with the 2nd gen frame?

Open to suggetions.

Thanks.

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Recently purchased a G19 2nd Gen. It had a New York Trigger in it so I replaced it with a 3rd Gen trigger(5lb connector) that I had. Fired probably 300 rounds thru it. Today I went out to shoot, pulled trigger fired one shot when I went to release the trigger three more rounds came on out.? So I tried again, same thing and again same thing?

I then took apart the trigger, nothing seemed bent or out of place the connector seemed fine and spring was good. Re assembled went back down to the range fired 50 rounds no problems.

Question: So is the 3rd gen trigger innerchangeable with the 2nd gen frame?

Open to suggetions.

Thanks.

Did you replace just the connector? If so you should be OK. If you replaced the trigger, there could be a problem. Some of the early Glock 19s use different parts than the newer ones. I've got one of the old ones myself. I don't recall the cut over point though.

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I'm not sure I understand what you're saying. The New York Trigger doesn't replace the connector, 5.5 pound version or otherwise, it replaces the trigger spring. So you didn't replace the New York Trigger with a 5.5 pound connector.

In any event, my suggestion is to call Glock and ship this gun back to them immediately for corrective action. Sounds to me like your newly purchased G19 has been the unfortunate recipient of some overly enthusiastic Dremel work to the trigger mechanism.

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You need to check the engagement of the trigger bar with the firing pin lug.

You need an orange "half" slide plate cover to be able to look into the gun and see if 2/3 of the trigger cruciform in engaging with the firing pin lug. Any less than 2/3 is likely your problem.

Also G19's prior to the serial # "EH" cannot use the new current G19 trigger.

If you serial number falls into this range, you need to use a trigger bar that is marked with a "+" on top of the cruciform. (not to be confused with any marking on the connector.)

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I'm not sure I understand what you're saying. The New York Trigger doesn't replace the connector, 5.5 pound version or otherwise, it replaces the trigger spring. So you didn't replace the New York Trigger with a 5.5 pound connector.

In any event, my suggestion is to call Glock and ship this gun back to them immediately for corrective action. Sounds to me like your newly purchased G19 has been the unfortunate recipient of some overly enthusiastic Dremel work to the trigger mechanism.

I removed the whole New York trigger assembly and replaced it with a standard Trigger assembly 5 lb connector. This is a used 2nd gen glock. No work has been done to it.

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You need to check the engagement of the trigger bar with the firing pin lug.

You need an orange "half" slide plate cover to be able to look into the gun and see if 2/3 of the trigger cruciform in engaging with the firing pin lug. Any less than 2/3 is likely your problem.

Also G19's prior to the serial # "EH" cannot use the new current G19 trigger.

If you serial number falls into this range, you need to use a trigger bar that is marked with a "+" on top of the cruciform. (not to be confused with any marking on the connector.)

The serial # is AWA made in 94'. I removed the whole New York trigger assembly and replaced it with a 3rd gen trigger assembly.

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I'm not sure I understand what you're saying. The New York Trigger doesn't replace the connector, 5.5 pound version or otherwise, it replaces the trigger spring. So you didn't replace the New York Trigger with a 5.5 pound connector.

In any event, my suggestion is to call Glock and ship this gun back to them immediately for corrective action. Sounds to me like your newly purchased G19 has been the unfortunate recipient of some overly enthusiastic Dremel work to the trigger mechanism.

I removed the whole New York trigger assembly and replaced it with a standard Trigger assembly 5 lb connector. This is a used 2nd gen glock. No work has been done to it.

How about the serial number? Three letters (XXX123) or two (XX123)? Mine has a DR prefix, so it's a pre-EH model.

Ah, you were too quick for me. :)

Edited by iainmcphersn
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I removed the whole New York trigger assembly and replaced it with a 3rd gen trigger assembly.

Gregory, what I'm trying to express is that the New York Trigger is not an entire trigger assembly. It's just a little plastic and metal insert that fits into the trigger housing (that vaguely triangular piece which incorporates the ejector), replacing the trigger spring in the process. If you want stock weight trigger pulls in the gun, and you don't like the New York Trigger, all you have to do is replace the New York Trigger module with a trigger spring. Nothing else needs to be changed. (Well, assuming the gun already had a 5.5 pound connector, natch.)

Okay, instead of calling Glock and shipping the gun off to them, here's another idea: simply reinstall the original parts that were in the gun when it worked right, and, if you must have a stock trigger spring instead of a New York Trigger module, just have someone show you how to swap them out. Do that and I'll bet your gun goes back to being a one shot per trigger pull proposition. The parts that went full auto? Into the trash can where they belong.

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I removed the whole New York trigger assembly and replaced it with a 3rd gen trigger assembly.

Gregory, what I'm trying to express is that the New York Trigger is not an entire trigger assembly. It's just a little plastic and metal insert that fits into the trigger housing (that vaguely triangular piece which incorporates the ejector), replacing the trigger spring in the process. If you want stock weight trigger pulls in the gun, and you don't like the New York Trigger, all you have to do is replace the New York Trigger module with a trigger spring. Nothing else needs to be changed. (Well, assuming the gun already had a 5.5 pound connector, natch.)

Okay, instead of calling Glock and shipping the gun off to them, here's another idea: simply reinstall the original parts that were in the gun when it worked right, and, if you must have a stock trigger spring instead of a New York Trigger module, just have someone show you how to swap them out. Do that and I'll bet your gun goes back to being a one shot per trigger pull proposition. The parts that went full auto? Into the trash can where they belong.

Thanks Duane. I took out the New York module and replaced it with a stock trigger spring. I will have to try it out later this week. I appriciate the info.

Greg

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Also, to check that you don't have the firing pin sticking in the forward position, take the slide off the frame, hold the firing pin lock plunger down with your finger, and shake the slide up and down. You should have free movement of the firing pin, you should hear it clicking up and down. If not, then cleaning the firing pin channel or replacing the channel liner may be in order.

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To the OP: sounds like you're not getting enough engagement on the sear (the top rear part of the trigger bar that sweeps up and engages the firing pin lug (part of the firing pin that hangs down)).

In the past, some folks polished that part as part of their .25 cent polishing job and in effect rounded off the sear so that the engagement wasn't there. It caused double, triple, even full auto fire in some Glocks. Definitely dangerous!

The other thing to look at is your firing pin safety plunger spring. That's the spring that pushes against the safety plunger (the little mushroom head part sticking out of the slide). Sometimes that can get bent in it's channel rendering the safety plunger useless. If this is the case, the firing pin has nothing to hold it back and will cause doubles or slam-fires.

Here's what I'd do:

1) replace all parts you installed with the original parts.

2) detail strip the slide to insure the safety plunger spring is in it's channel and not kinked up or anything.

3) clean the firing pin channel (take out the plastic sleeve, use a cotton swab and clean it out...don't use any Hoppes or anything...just clean it dry)

4) TEST FIRE to see if you get the tripling problem. If not....you may have solved it and then you can try a different trigger configuration.

5) IF YOU STILL HAVE A PROBLEM: Call Glock and tell them the issue. They should send you a replacement trigger group.

As Duane Thomas points out....the NY Trigger is simply a small semi-triangular plastic piece with a heavy spring in it. It increases trigger pull weight. Some folks like this because it also gives a smoother pull on the take-up. This piece is easily removed and replaced with a stock trigger spring (or even a lightened spring you can get from Wolff) to give you a lighter trigger pull. All you need to do is install it in the ejector housing.

Go to this site for more info and detailed instructions: http://www.glockmeister.com/trigspr.shtml

Good luck!

Z-

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Recently purchased a G19 2nd Gen. It had a New York Trigger in it so I replaced it with a 3rd Gen trigger(5lb connector) that I had. Fired probably 300 rounds thru it. Today I went out to shoot, pulled trigger fired one shot when I went to release the trigger three more rounds came on out.? So I tried again, same thing and again same thing?

I then took apart the trigger, nothing seemed bent or out of place the connector seemed fine and spring was good. Re assembled went back down to the range fired 50 rounds no problems.

Question: So is the 3rd gen trigger innerchangeable with the 2nd gen frame?

Open to suggetions.

Thanks.

I'd sell it for $2000 as a burst-fire Glock 19! Sweeeeet!

Kidding...

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