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FN-SLP Bolt Release Button - make it easier?


1bigshooter

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Bought a new FN-SLP, love the gun, will take some time to get used to not being able to close the bolt with the loading gate!

Has anyone experimented with making the bolt release easier to push? Maybe reducing spring tension, or polishing the engagement surfaces?

I see on other threads that some are adding the larger button, made for the Benelli's - how much does it help? Just easier to hit? or, easier to push?

It just seems like it takes alot of effort to push the button.....

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I prefer the Progressive Arms Button. Its easy to install and adds alot of surface area while being cosmetically appealing. The larger button makes disengaging the bolt much easier. The BRA that CATMan has is pretty cool too. I've seen it in person. His smith does nice work on the FN.

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CATman33: If you are making your release, you ought to market them.

To go back to the first question, I would discourage polishing or cutting the spring to make the bolt release easier. As you use it there will be some improvement, those little parts do not grow on trees if you mess up and it is stiff for a good reason. Using a larger button or lever will make it easier to hit and the extra leverage will make it seem less stiff. Lastly, I also think that you will find it pretty rare that you need to use it during the course of fire since the objective is not to run the gun dry.

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Thanks Charles, but I cannot take credit for that. It was the invention of Greg Copeland, a true craftsman.

FYI...this BRA requires that part of the forearm be ground away on the inside, to allow room for it.

It is nice to give credit where it is due.

As to grinding away part of the inside of the forearm to install it, I have never found that part to do me much good. :cheers: For the price difference between what you have and what everyone else has, I could even afford to spend the night at a Holiday Inn Express.

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Is the Progressive Machine button still available?

Is it better than the Nordic Components oversized button?

Both say they are for Benellis, but obviously folks are adapting them to the FN - does it take any modification to do so?

I believe Shooters Connection has the Progressive button.

Whether the Nordic button is better is a matter of personal taste. I believe the Progressive has a longer area to hit but has a guard around the edge. The Nordic is a large round button.

The Progressive mounts without any drilling so you do not need to modify anything to make it fit. The button is held over the bolt release by a guard that fences it in and the guard is mounted on the gun with adhesive.

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Thanks Charles, but I cannot take credit for that. It was the invention of Greg Copeland, a true craftsman.

FYI...this BRA requires that part of the forearm be ground away on the inside, to allow room for it.

It is nice to give credit where it is due.

As to grinding away part of the inside of the forearm to install it, I have never found that part to do me much good. :cheers: For the price difference between what you have and what everyone else has, I could even afford to spend the night at a Holiday Inn Express.

Yeah the best part is Greg did this one for free since it was a prototype and he invented it on the fly. I think he used a total of $0.40 worth of material. :D

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The Prog arms button is a floating button over the factory release, and the frame is held in place by an adhesive

Installation consisted of wiping down the area with a swap, peeling back the adhesive and sticking it on there.

Let sit for 24 hours and your ready to go.

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The Prog arms button is a floating button over the factory release, and the frame is held in place by an adhesive

Installation consisted of wiping down the area with a swap, peeling back the adhesive and sticking it on there.

Let sit for 24 hours and your ready to go.

I had problems with mine. The adhesive went outisde the perimeter of the frame and the button itself was sticking to the adhesive.

I took mine off.

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The Prog arms button is a floating button over the factory release, and the frame is held in place by an adhesive

Installation consisted of wiping down the area with a swap, peeling back the adhesive and sticking it on there.

Let sit for 24 hours and your ready to go.

I had problems with mine. The adhesive went outisde the perimeter of the frame and the button itself was sticking to the adhesive.

I took mine off.

I can only speak about mine but it seemed "so easy a caveman could do it" and has worked fine thus far. Now if the adhesive was all goofed up from the get go, I can see how the button would stick and cause issues.

Good luck.

Edited by cold
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The Prog arms button is a floating button over the factory release, and the frame is held in place by an adhesive

Installation consisted of wiping down the area with a swap, peeling back the adhesive and sticking it on there.

Let sit for 24 hours and your ready to go.

I had problems with mine. The adhesive went outisde the perimeter of the frame and the button itself was sticking to the adhesive.

I took mine off.

I can only speak about mine but it seemed "so easy a caveman could do it" and has worked fine thus far. Now if the adhesive was all goofed up from the get go, I can see how the button would stick and cause issues.

Good luck.

It was fine the first couple times I competed with it, but I think some MPro7 may have come in contact with it and caused the adhesive to soften slightly and spread and that resulted in the problem.

If you have one, I would make certain to avoid cleaner or solvent contact and make sure the center button always returns "up" without sticking.

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The Prog arms button is a floating button over the factory release, and the frame is held in place by an adhesive

Installation consisted of wiping down the area with a swap, peeling back the adhesive and sticking it on there.

Let sit for 24 hours and your ready to go.

I had problems with mine. The adhesive went outisde the perimeter of the frame and the button itself was sticking to the adhesive.

I took mine off.

Same thing I heard about the adhesive problem and thats one reason I went another direction. Also it seems like you have to hit the Prog Arms button more "square" and centered in between the plastic outer support rim to make it work. I like to use the bottom of my open palm to just smack the button instead of having to center my finger over the button and press. But.....thats just my pref. :rolleyes:

Edited by CATman33
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The Prog arms button is a floating button over the factory release, and the frame is held in place by an adhesive

Installation consisted of wiping down the area with a swap, peeling back the adhesive and sticking it on there.

Let sit for 24 hours and your ready to go.

I had problems with mine. The adhesive went outisde the perimeter of the frame and the button itself was sticking to the adhesive.

I took mine off.

I can only speak about mine but it seemed "so easy a caveman could do it" and has worked fine thus far. Now if the adhesive was all goofed up from the get go, I can see how the button would stick and cause issues.

Good luck.

It was fine the first couple times I competed with it, but I think some MPro7 may have come in contact with it and caused the adhesive to soften slightly and spread and that resulted in the problem.

If you have one, I would make certain to avoid cleaner or solvent contact and make sure the center button always returns "up" without sticking.

Clean? CLEAN??? Isn't that something those shooters with the whimpy gas guns do?

Edited by Charles Bond
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Gas is where its at! Those other guns just "blow" back!

I do indeed have a gun that blows back....you have one that blows out. :rolleyes:

That must be why those AR platform guns are so unpopular? :unsure:

But seriously.....I'll call uncle. No malice intended. Just some good ribbing. :roflol:

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Gas is where its at! Those other guns just "blow" back!

I do indeed have a gun that blows back....you have one that blows out. :rolleyes:

That must be why those AR platform guns are so unpopular? :unsure:

But seriously.....I'll call uncle. No malice intended. Just some good ribbing. :roflol:

Same here. If after we exhaust a thread we do not drift it, we are just not doing our job. :cheers:

And since you asked, my favorite AR is the first generation ZM which I think is yards better than anything else I have ever used.

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