Changing a slide stop

[Josh Biondi]

Got the experience that the frame was broken at the slide stop window near the slide stop pin. At S_I told that it may happen if has changed the slide stop with another not original. But the the gun has the original slide stop on.

So the question is simple how do you fit a slide stop on a gun? What are the matching operation that needs for it? and can a (also if different) slide stop broke the frame in that point? (you can look at the picture to see what im asking)

Thanks for your imput guys!

[Toolguy]

Hi Josh-

I'm a revolver guy, but I will try to help. I don't think that a slide stop can break the frame. I think there was already a

weakness in the metal there that cracked on it's own. As far as fitting a new slide stop, I think the only part you might

have to fit is where the magazine follower pushes it up after the last shot. If that part is too far in towards the mag,

sometimes the bullets will push it up and lock the slide back before the mag is empty.

[Josh Biondi]

Hi Josh-

I'm a revolver guy, but I will try to help. I don't think that a slide stop can break the frame. I think there was already a

weakness in the metal there that cracked on it's own. As far as fitting a new slide stop, I think the only part you might

have to fit is where the magazine follower pushes it up after the last shot. If that part is too far in towards the mag,

sometimes the bullets will push it up and lock the slide back before the mag is empty.

Thanks for your reply. I agree with you about the weakness in the metal. This was my first thought. About the fitting my idea is that the slide stop needs to fit with the link barrel and both the holes in the frame, plus it need to fit in his space in the frame. Not more. Do i'm wrong?

[Ross Carter]

If you notice the cut out on the frame has radiused or rounded corners, most slide stops have square corners in the area that will contact this part of the frame. The constant pounding of that sharp corner into the radiused area on the frame because of recoil will cause it to crack in that area. All it takes is some filing to remove the sharp corner on the new slide stop to make it fit. Ironicaly the radius in the frame cut is to keep it from cracking from stress.

[Josh Biondi]

If you notice the cut out on the frame has radiused or rounded corners, most slide stops have square corners in the area that will contact this part of the frame. The constant pounding of that sharp corner into the radiused area on the frame because of recoil will cause it to crack in that area. All it takes is some filing to remove the sharp corner on the new slide stop to make it fit. Ironicaly the radius in the frame cut is to keep it from cracking from stress.

I agree with your analisys. Radiuses or ruonded corners are done on metal to avoid cracking. I'll check again the slide stop but im sure that it is radious in all countacting points. Anyhow the slide stop is the original so if your thought is right the cracking cant be up to my mistake.

Thanks for the input.

Edited June 11, 2009 by Josh Biondi

[shooterbenedetto]

I have always used an EGW slide stop made from solid bar stock. never broke one.

I have never seen one in my shooting carrer on the STI plat form. been shooting for 6 years.

CZ and Tanfoglio is very common to break them.

[Josh Biondi]

If you notice the cut out on the frame has radiused or rounded corners, most slide stops have square corners in the area that will contact this part of the frame. The constant pounding of that sharp corner into the radiused area on the frame because of recoil will cause it to crack in that area. All it takes is some filing to remove the sharp corner on the new slide stop to make it fit. Ironicaly the radius in the frame cut is to keep it from cracking from stress.

Checked the slide stop. No corners or square. No visible point of contact or stress on it..... its a mystery......... <_< <_<