Ross Carter

There are very few who aren't always shooting with people better than them on any given day.

If the chamber is reamed too short, especially short enough for the case to hang out enough to be unsupported, the pistol won't go completely into battery and the disconnector will prevent it from firing.

I wouldn't be surprised if CNN was researching the FBI fancy dancer AD and found the old 320 story.

You would probably need to thin the guide rod "head" to match the 3.9 guns so as to maintain slide travel, and you'd lose the dual spring the short guns use. I doubt it would be worth the effort but it seems doable.

You better hurry it's been posted on Reddit so it will sell out very quickly.

I remember that, unfortunately that was not the only time I saw someone shoot themselves, most people worry about it on the draw but most of the time it's re-holstering.

Well he did win the World Match in 1983.......but it was the start of the SS domination for sure. But we were all shooting SS back then so.........

Those were the days as they say, I can't remember why I didn't show for that.

Have a couple of questions for you guys running the Q5. I'm looking at it pretty hard but don't have any to try locally so my concerns are that long slide stop and the seemingly short grip. With the grip I have to use I lock the slide back on a XDM way too often to use one so the extra long lever on the Walther makes we wonder if I would have the same problem? The XDM has no fence around the slide stop so that's part of the problem for me. Also is the grip long enough for someone who wears 2xl gloves to get all my fingers comfortably on it? Thanks for any help.

And with an injured knee went on to win the World Shoot. Great memories.

As the extractor is pulling the fired case out of the chamber the timing rail is pressing down on the next round up in the magazine. I think you simply don't have enough extractor tension. Bend your extractor, there should be plenty of videos around to show how, put more tension on it and I bet your problem goes away.

You might check the slide stop pin diameter and the hole in the frame, John Nowlin made bushings and would re-bore the frame on problem guns.

In my post I'm not taking the amount of lead itself in consideration as that is taken care of by a lead adjuster. When I post a 49 thousands of an inch advantage with the 45 over the 9 that is if both shots hit the same place the outside of the 45 bullet would be 49 thousands of an inch closer to the center, maybe that's enough to touch the next scoring line. But bullet flight time does seem to make a difference on the mover both guns with mover adjustment, every thing else equal at least for me when back when I was shooting good, I was more consistent with higher velocity and often shots I called marginal were still good. Think of recoil this way, every bit of extra recoil gives you less time to aim, it may seem insignificant but it really adds up on the barricade. Also when you go to a larger bore at the same power factor the larger bore has more torque in your hand. We are splitting hairs and I'm assuming you are looking for any small gain to make the difference between a winning score or not, at that level small differences add up. In the end it's which pistol and load you shoot best and have confidence in.

Do the negatives you already mentioned offset a.049 inch edge in scoring? Those big 45 holes in the target sure look good but can you get the same accuracy out of those ultra light 45 bullets you can from the 9mm? If not and even if I think the negatives overcome the advantage. I can't give a great explanation of how, but my experiments proved to me that higher velocity equals better scores on the longer portions of the mover even with a lead adjusting device.

I've been told that the NRA Action program at the Springfield Bench Rest Club has been shut down due to a property line dispute.

Something that should be checked but isn't isn't too often is whether your firing pin can make full travel, that is as far as it can be pushed way passed normal, without binding up in the fp channel. Some combinations of fp and slides will cause the fp to stick if it travels further than it does when there is a primer in front of it to stop the travel. This is often the cause of the firing pin stop falling out, you dry fire the firing pin sticks forward so the back of it doesn't hold the fp stop and it falls off the gun. Also the pin can get bent while sticking out that far. Some firing pins are tapered and more likely to stick some have a step to stop this from happening. Use a punch and move the firing pin forward as far as you can and slowly release to see if it will stick. A worn out fp spring can do the same thing by not holding the back of the fp against the fp stop allowing it to slip down. A firing pin spring can also have a part of a coil break off and stick between the fp and the spring eventually getting in a position that wedges the firing pin causing it to stick forward. Many times it's very hard to see the little part broken off the spring, if you take it off and stretch it out you may see it or it may fall off before you do. Good idea to check them and change them regularly if you shoot a lot.

I could be that the firing pin is entering the flash hole of your dummy round and sticking in there. When you rack the slide the barrel drops down taking the firing pin for a ride that bends it.

Your monitor and eyesight are better than mine, I didn't see any peening. You are absolutely correct about beveling the hood, not just to prevent the corner crashing into the slide but also to make sure the corners of the hood clear the corner of the slide which may have a little radius to it. Been breaking those corners for at least 40 years so obviously I need to use a real computer monitor and pay more attention before posting.

Your other 1911 may not have the hood fit as tightly as this one. It's not a problem it is an indication of a tightly fit barrel, keep it lubed and shoot it.

I got to know Ray working as an adjunct instructor at the academy, I got along fine with him, maybe because my father was also a Pacific Theater WW2 vet and I was used to that no bs style. He didn't suffer fools gladly as the saying goes, he was old school in a lot of ways but on the other hand forward thinking. For instance he was one of the first if not the first to put on running shoes instead of the combat boots most everyone else competed in back at the beginning of the sport, he did get some kidding about them but it was competition and he looked for every advantage. The late Larry Bullock previously worked at the range some and didn't necessarily get along with Ray. Larry was a great practical joker and was selling those bumper stickers, looking back now I wish I'd bought one. I was more than a little surprised when I came in and saw one stuck on the office door, at any rate it didn't work as a practical joke. It didn't bother Ray.

Always make sure you peen it quite a bit more than you need, that way when you file it to fit you have more than a knife edge which will wear quickly to block the sear.

I can just about guarantee they are red loktited in. It was difficult to keep those grip mounts tight so it was common to use red. Clean off all that oil and heat the bolts with a propane torch until you see the loktite bubble up and then they will come right out. It won't hurt the blue.

Nearly every time you need to drill a hole for gunsmithing it will need to be precisely located. You can do that with a good drill press and a good cross slide vice but by the time you get all that you can nearly buy one of the small bench top mills that will do a much much better job. If you are thinking you can do some light milling in a drill press forget that idea, drill presses make horrible mills but mills make great drill presses. Even the better drill presses have bearings that aren't designed for side loads so you get a bunch of vibration and excessive tool wear if you try to mill with them. It's tough starting out but no use making the same mistakes many of us including myself have made.

I've had a couple of them, IIRC it was primarily inserts inside the mag well which would be easy to fab out of plastic or aluminum. The mag release is unique but I'm sure a good machinist or welder could make something it you really wanted one and couldn't find anything for sale. In the end I found it didn't really accomplish anything since you can make the original mags reliable.

Well I solved the problem in an effective if crude way. NRA refs approved so now just shooting ahead. I was a bit surprised they didn't weigh the trigger I thought that was a big deal now too. Look s like decent weather going to enjoy the match.