Baer45 Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 I have started to set up a 1050 to load my first 9 mm rounds and am having a hard time coming close to what the books say should be the proper crimp. My assumption is Laser Cast is so hard it will not take a normal crimp or I am off base somewhere... If anyone has loaded this round what is your crimp set at? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertbank Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 I have started to set up a 1050 to load my first 9 mm rounds and am having a hard time coming close to what the books say should be the proper crimp. My assumption is Laser Cast is so hard it will not take a normal crimp or I am off base somewhere...If anyone has loaded this round what is your crimp set at? The 9MM requires a taper crimp only. Just remove the belling is all you have to do. The bullet is retained by case friction. Do not apply a roll crimp. Take Care Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baer45 Posted March 23, 2009 Author Share Posted March 23, 2009 I have started to set up a 1050 to load my first 9 mm rounds and am having a hard time coming close to what the books say should be the proper crimp. My assumption is Laser Cast is so hard it will not take a normal crimp or I am off base somewhere...If anyone has loaded this round what is your crimp set at? The 9MM requires a taper crimp only. Just remove the belling is all you have to do. The bullet is retained by case friction. Do not apply a roll crimp. Take Care Bob Bob- I realize it has to be a taper crimp. What I have found and read is the proper crimp is usually around .003 to .004 smaller then the round being loaded. I can't come close which implies no crimp or too little or it's just fine???? With the higher pressure of the small case I was curious what others are finding when they measure their crimp after loading a round...Right now I am just testing my crimp by seeing if I can push a bullet back into the case but have no idea if I am in the range of a proper crimp...make sense? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baer45 Posted March 24, 2009 Author Share Posted March 24, 2009 I figured it out guys...I've only got a public school education...The crimp is generally .003 or so smaller then the CASE size... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glockcomma Posted March 27, 2009 Share Posted March 27, 2009 I think the spec. is .378, white box is .376 and I load to .374 white box and my loads are jacketed but I've loaded tons of Laser Cast and they are so hard there almost like jacked. I think .376 would be good for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twodownzero Posted March 28, 2009 Share Posted March 28, 2009 I haven't found any reason to actually measure the crimp. Just knock the bell out of the case and you're in business. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhyrlik Posted March 28, 2009 Share Posted March 28, 2009 I use Laser Cast 125gr .358" bullet in my 9mm. I load them to 1.050". At this OAL, the case mouth is right in the middle of the crimp groove. I taper crimp slightly and do not have any bullet hardness springback issues. 3.7-42.gr of 231 with a FC-100 primer is very, very accurate out of my Beretta M9. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glockcomma Posted March 29, 2009 Share Posted March 29, 2009 The reason I measure my crimp is because one of my open Glocks was having ejection problems, occasionally one of the empty cases would catch on the crimp of the top round in the magazine. I tightened it up a couple of thousandths and the problem went away so I keep an eye on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MemphisMechanic Posted April 2, 2009 Share Posted April 2, 2009 What they said. In 9mm, think of the crimp as a "flare removal die", rather than an actual crimp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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