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Disassembling 550b Linkage


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The last few times I've used my 550, I noticed some stiffness in the stroke. Right near the bottom of the stroke (as in, with the shellplate carrier approaching the priming position) there's a "hump" in the force necessary to move the press handle. It gets harder to push, I keep pushing, then it peaks and gets easier to push. The same thing happens on the reverse of the stroke as well.

I gave the ram a fresh coat of oil just to be sure, but that didn't improve it much. So I removed the set screw from the bottom of the ram (13789) and knocked out the big pin that couples the linkage to the ram (13830). Now able to move the linkage seperate from the ram, it became clear that the increased effort was due to the linkage moving very stiffly, like it had been lubed with glue. It's stiff both at the upper and lower points of rotation.

So I figured I'd just take the whole thing apart, clean it and lube it, and that oughta be that. Except I have no idea how to go about it. It looks like the link arms (13583) have to be detached from the frame before the crank (13409) can be removed. But it's not at all evident how to do that. Obviously the pins (13834 and 13881) must be removed, but how?

Alternatively, I'm open to other ways of smoothing out the operation of these parts. Maybe there's something I can spray on them to get the gunk out, and/or some type of lube I can apply that doesn't require disassembly.

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Whenever I've had the problems you describe on either the SDB or the 650, it's been because of crud galling one or more of the linkage pins. I've had to disassemble, and get the galling off with sand paper, wirewheel, and or steel wool. While I don't know how to pull a 550 apart, the owner's manual is downloadable at Dillon's website and should contain instructions or diagrams to show you how. Good luck.

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Kruzr you're right, that insight came to me while I was thinking about the problem. When I thought of that, I set about taking the press apart to get the ram out so that I could get at pins 13881 and 13834. But, they're stuck! Attempting to use a length of 3/8" dowel as a pin punch was a miserable failure. I tried a steel pin punch (1/8" I think), but one hit with that deformed the face of the punch without budging the pin. I suppose tomorrow morning I could try using a long bolt or something as a punch, but I'm hesitant of really putting my back into it for fear of breaking something.

Plus, while disassembling the press, I managed to break my primer punch :wacko: Yes, I'm a genius.

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I've had to use considerable force to get galled pins out of a press. (We're talking really whacking the sucher with a wooden dowel and a sledge hammer.) BE VERY SURE THAT YOU HAVE REMOVED ALL SET SCREWS BEFORE WHACKING ON THE PINS! If you don't think you can get it, you could always send the machine back to Dillon for a rebuild. I wish I had 550 experience, but I've never even seen one of those....

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Monster, don't worry...

Happened also to me when I first tried to take the linkage apart. But this was 12 years ago... ;)

I'm not sure what numbers you are referring on, because my manual just shows three digit part numbers, looks like I have to get a newer one.

I found, that in most cases when the linkage becomes locked or somewhat hard to operate, it is NOT necessary to take it apart. Just use the holes in (sorry for my old numbers) 503A & B and 508 (see attached pictures). Insert an appropriate plastic tube, fitted to a spray-oil and rinse the linkage until clear oil drops out (Mobil No.1 works fine on that). Operate the handle a few times and repeat this procedure until the linkage works w/o any lock- or stop-feeling.

If this doesn't work for you, you have to go the hard way...

Be sure to take everything off (including your primer punch...), i.e. head, primer feed, case plate, center rod, etc. until you have only the linkage on the frame. This is very important, cause you have to use a lot of force to get the pins 515A&B out. Start with the one on the right (515B) and through the hole of this one, hammer out 515A (also to the left) Don't ever try to do it the other way !

Don't use excessive force, just get a bigger hammer... B) (just kidding, don't worry, you need to get so hard on these pins, when they are stuck).

If you need more info or tips on this matter, just give me a PM.

Georg

(If I knew how to attach pictures from my harddisk.....)

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When I had that problem and contacted Dillon, they sent new linkage pins and believe it or not, a rod to use in driving the old ones out. All it consisted of was a landscape nail with the point ground off! These are the ones you use to join landscape timbers and are about 6" long. Worked like a charm too. Also, they recommended using grease instead of oil on the replacement linkage pins that went in.

Alan~^~

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The flat-tipped landscape nail did the trick! Using that as a punch, and applying some pretty fierce hammer blows, I got the solid pin out. Luckily I also had a large-diameter punch to get the hollow pin out. Oddly, I wasn't able to get the crank completely disassembled; I could only get one link arm off at a time, as loosening one nut made it impossible to loosen the other one, and vice versa. But since I was able to get each off in turn, I was able to clean out all the old gunk from all the parts. With a fresh application of bearing grease as per the instructions, everything worked smoothly.

I then proceeded to reassemble the link arms backwards, so that the lug for hanging the spent primer cup was on the back of the left arm. Naturally I didn't realize this until I had put everything back on. I'm SO cool :lol:

Back apart, and back together, and now I'm running smooth and ready to roll.... as soon as I get that new primer punch.

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  • 4 years later...

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