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Lead bullets tumbling?


SIXXgun

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I had a discussion with a friend and we discussed putting a 6" barrel on my 625. It would be an older 625-2 barrel. He said he might have heard some stories about lead (or moly coated lead) bullets tumbling from barrels swithched like this. Anybody have aby ideas if this is true or not? How can it be overcome?

JM

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The 25-2s have a long history of being inaccurate with cast lead bullets. I've never been completely sure if it's the barrels on them, or the chamber/throat dimensions that cause the problem. To be on the safe side, I'd plan on using jacketed bullets in it once the 6" tube is installed.

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A prominent revolver shooter and I talked about this in length a year or so back. He seems to think it is a combination of the barrel and the cylinder but more trouble caused by the cylinder than the barrel.

Hop

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If you are using a modern 625 cylinder, then the problem, if any, will be with the barrel. If you really want to shoot lead, then you need to work on finding the right bullet/ velocity combo. Ultra hard cast bullets (Oregon Trail) fired at 750 fps won't obturate at all and may skid through the rifling without picking up any spin. A softer bullet (Missouri Bullet makes a 230 gr. LRN at Brinell 12) may well work fine. Another possibility is to find a .453" or even .454" diameter bullet.

I'm sure there's a way to solve the problem.

Bob.

A16841

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Back when we were shooting pins, we discovered one answer to the "25-2 tumbling bullet" problem was to cast bullets and leave them unsized (they actually measured about .454" if I recall) and lube them with liquid alox instead of a wax lube. This saved a step in the bullet-making process, and helped the bullets stabilize much better.

Every 25-2 I have owned (I'm down to four these days!) has had trouble shooting normal lead bullets that are sized .451-.452".

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Back when we were shooting pins, we discovered one answer to the "25-2 tumbling bullet" problem was to cast bullets and leave them unsized (they actually measured about .454" if I recall) and lube them with liquid alox instead of a wax lube. This saved a step in the bullet-making process, and helped the bullets stabilize much better.

Every 25-2 I have owned (I'm down to four these days!) has had trouble shooting normal lead bullets that are sized .451-.452".

You have way more expierence with 25-2s than me and I was concerned with lead but tried the Bear Creek hard cast bullets asI found a deal on 5K 200 grain round nose and gave them a try. Nerver miked them but they are super accurate. Prone at 50 yards I can keep them in a 3-4 inch group which is the best I can shoot. If you haven't tried them girve it a go. They are reasonably clean as well, no leading issues either.

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One option I've been contemplating is buying a new factory model 25 barrel and fitting it up to a 625 with a good cylinder, but I'm not sure you would'nt have the same problem. You would of course have to thread it further to meet the shorter cylinder. The good news is that it is tapered for faster transitions unlike the old ones. :)

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S&W 25-2 had .451" barrel groove diameters and my particular samples had .457" and .455" cylinder throats, which as you can tell, caused severe leading.

No, a .452" bullet will never skid over the rifling as was suggested above. That is just not true.

Matching a 25-2 barrel with a 625 cylinder will result in an ideal combination, as these cylinders almost always have .453" throats. A better option, however, is to take a 627 barrel and have it rebored. That way the finish will match and you'll retain the original appearance with the underlug and all.

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Well, that's a thought, but I don't know anybody who could rebore a barrel without it being hideously expensive. On the other hand, 25-2 barrels are not readily available anymore, either, although they do turn up now and then. Hard chroming the whole gun (Mahovksy's Metalife has the best pricing going right now on quality hard chrome, BTW) after rebarreling is a nice option if you don't like the two-tone look.

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