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SDM Fiber Optic Sights


ShortEd

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They come with 1.5mm rod. 1/16". There's just enought room to drill them for 2mm rod. I think I glued mine with foam safe super glue. The original rods are staked in place and frequently pre-cracked where they're staked.

Edited by Tom E
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I've got the cable drive extension tool for my dremel. I chose a drill bit that matched the size of the FO rod I'm using and drilled it through out the front.

I just wasn't having much success with the blind hole. If I glued or melted the rod in, it would usually break off in a way that I really had to work to get the dern hole cleaned back out; and it wasn't the kind of task that could be done quickly between stages to get the gun back into proper form.

With the hole drilled through, I pre-cut and pre-form some FO pieces of the end I see and leave the front end of the rod cut. When I break a piece I push the replacement rod through the sight from the back and hold the pre-formed end against the sight and melt the other end with a lighter.

I can be back in bidnezz in a couple of minutes. :closedeyes:

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Thanks Guys......I think I'll wait till it breaks, hopefully during practice, then drill out the front of the sight. Also wanted to thank everyone on the forum, I got JM's "Action Job" DVD, and cleaned up my 625 & 686. They both have a better actions now, but I still can't talk myself into filing off the strain screw. They are backed about about one turn with finger nail polish around them. :roflol:

Thanks,

Ed

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....and melt the other end with a lighter.

One tip I would recommend here--I discovered awhile back that a "blue flame" cigar lighter (which you can still buy at convenience stores, etc.) works better for melting F/O than a standard BIC.

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Thanks Guys......I think I'll wait till it breaks, hopefully during practice, then drill out the front of the sight. Also wanted to thank everyone on the forum, I got JM's "Action Job" DVD, and cleaned up my 625 & 686. They both have a better actions now, but I still can't talk myself into filing off the strain screw. They are backed about about one turn with finger nail polish around them. :roflol:

Thanks,

Ed

Right. That's when my gun always breaks, at practice. :rolleyes:

I guess everyone has to learn about loosened strain screws and fingernail polish. A replacement Strain Screw from Brownell's costs $3.25, maybe you can sell a kidney and get one. ;)

Of course, there's a whole bunch of other little parts you'll want to order at the same time to make the most of your shipping charges; cylinder, hammer & trigger shims are on the list.

There's a trigger job thread around here somewhere...

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....and melt the other end with a lighter.

One tip I would recommend here--I discovered awhile back that a "blue flame" cigar lighter (which you can still buy at convenience stores, etc.) works better for melting F/O than a standard BIC.

A heated center punch with a sharp point works well also.

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I guess everyone has to learn about loosened strain screws and fingernail polish. A replacement Strain Screw from Brownell's costs $3.25, maybe you can sell a kidney and get one. ;)

I find that a lot of people have a hard time figuring out how much to take off the strain screw, it's really not hard. The screw has 32 threads per inch so divide 1 inch by 32 and you get .03125. If your screw is good backed off 1 turn just remove roughly .031 from its length, that way you can just lock it down and never be bothered by it again. Just remember to round the end some after cutting it back or the main spring will try to walk out the side when you tighten the screw.

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OK......You talked me into it....I'll file off the strain screw tonight. That "red" fingernail polish did look kind of sexy when I took the grips off, but I'll try to do it the "right" way this time. THANKS.

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I guess everyone has to learn about loosened strain screws and fingernail polish. A replacement Strain Screw from Brownell's costs $3.25, maybe you can sell a kidney and get one. ;)

I find that a lot of people have a hard time figuring out how much to take off the strain screw, it's really not hard. The screw has 32 threads per inch so divide 1 inch by 32 and you get .03125. If your screw is good backed off 1 turn just remove roughly .031 from its length, that way you can just lock it down and never be bothered by it again. Just remember to round the end some after cutting it back or the main spring will try to walk out the side when you tighten the screw.

That's why I love math :)

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Back on the sight topic....

I found the roll pin for the front sight on my 625JM had worked its way out about an 1/8" after having only shot a few hundred rounds through it. Anyone else find this? Possibly a better fitting roll pin in my future?

I had just installed the SDM fiber optic by slotting it in as designed. Did not remove the roll pin to install. Seems like it is getting shot loose...

Take care,

Dave

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Melting in the fiber optic works if ya hold the flame away from the insert and let it melt into the sight.

I had a customer bring in his pistol a while back , he couldnt figure out how to make the fiber optic insert

stay in so he decideded to use a hammer and punch and peen the thing in he cut the crap outa his hand

pluse broke the sight. :wacko:

Sometimes I wonder :unsure:

jim

Sailors :sight::devil:

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Found out today that I can get $12.37 for a kidney.....thats almost 4 strain screws....Going to start grinding away on them.

:roflol:

Some people play Golf, race cars, fish, paint, form mud into brica-brak, whatever. I dink around with bullet launchers and punch holes in paper.

All three hobbies (shooting, reloading, gun tinkering) hasn't come close to the price of a Bass Boat; much less the doo-dads you gotta have to play in competition.

So go crazy (while observing proper safety rules) and blow the price of a Fish Finder or Putter on whatever makes you happy. B)

It beats feeding the money into a Casino, Chiropractor, or Psychiatrist. ;)

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The best pins to use for Classic front sights and for pin-on front sights are called Spirol or coiled spring pins. They can be found at McMaster-Carr

industrial supply. Phone 630-833-0300. Size-1/16 x 1/4. Part # 91598A105. Pkg. of 100 for $4.46 + shipping. You may have to drill the hole out

with a 1/16 drill bit in some cases.

The best way I've found to keep fiber optics on with heavy recoil is to heat both ends as normal, then put on some thin viscosity super glue and

it will wick into the hole and hold very securely. Make sure to clean the metal part with solvent and let it evaporate before installing the fiber optic rod.

The fibers never melt exactly right. It seems they are always off to one side or the other. Here's how I deal with that. Make a countersink in the hole on

the back of the sight and pull the melted fiber into the countersink before it cools off. OR - When installing the fiber optic rod, mushroom the side that you look at first, with the rest sticking out the front. Holding the part that is hanging out, rotate the fiber in the hole back and forth until it is

centered up side to side. Hold the fiber from turning as you cut it off and melt the other end.

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