doublemike Posted June 13, 2003 Share Posted June 13, 2003 Recently i purchased a G35, i want to replace the factory guide rod by a stainless / tungsten guide rod. Aftermarket products consist of a captive or non captive type. Which one to choose & why ? Springs ?? lbs I'm using the G35 in IPSC, PF 178 - 182 All info welcome Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricW Posted June 13, 2003 Share Posted June 13, 2003 It doesn't matter. Captive is a nice convenience for quick field stripping, but is a hassle for adjusting/changing springs. Any captive rod can be made non-captive by omitting the screw and washer. To keep the screw from coming out, you generally need to use loctite, which means you'll need to use a padded vice or pliers to pop the screw back out if you want to change springs. I've got a Glockmeister captive tungsten rod and it's given me a couple years of trouble-free service now. (I don't screw with my springs, so it's a great feature for me.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad Scientist Posted June 14, 2003 Share Posted June 14, 2003 Since I am a tinlerer and always on the quest for the flatest and softest shooting guns. I always use a non capturedspring. shooting open with a glock is try this and try that thing . recently i have desided to use 13 pound springs by ismi and use a lightnin strike guide rod.Havent used a capturedrod but am toying with the Idea of drilling a capture hole much like a1911 open gun. I think this will give me the best of both worlds. If I was going to respring a 35 I would start with a15 and check the throw of the brass. about 2 to 4 feet of distance is what I look for. any more and I would stiffen up the spring any less and and lighten up. Good luck with your quest. Johnnie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad Scientist Posted June 14, 2003 Share Posted June 14, 2003 Missed the tungsten part, I would not recomend tungsten as they are prone to breakage. stainless is fine. and will give an ounce or two of added weight. The brass mag wells will also add total weight to the gunif you so desire. I personaly find the lighter guns are faster between targets where most average shooters lose most of there time. indexes typicaly win matches not splits contrary to popular belief. Have fun and shot lots and lots. Johnnie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricW Posted June 14, 2003 Share Posted June 14, 2003 I think the rod breakage issue with the tungsten rods is overblown to some extent. But, maybe mine will break tomorrow, who knows... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trey Posted June 14, 2003 Share Posted June 14, 2003 I would highly recommend the CGR ext. tungsten guide rod. I've yet to see a CGR guide rod break. Even if it does break, it has a lifetime warranty. I've found that with the tung. guide rod and brass magwell, it brings my 35 to 32 oz. (unloaded) That is on the light side for limited guns and it transitions well for me. But half the fun is changing parts and seeing what works for you. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doublemike Posted June 14, 2003 Author Share Posted June 14, 2003 All, Thanx for the replies. I'll have some testing to do ! Well Trey I'll have some fun by changing / testing and seeing what works for me ! Buddy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad Scientist Posted June 14, 2003 Share Posted June 14, 2003 Tungsten rod breakage is preaty wide spread as far as im concerned. every one I know who has had one has exsperienced dreakages. IMHO.taking a chance at say an area match or the nat.with a part that may or may not break is not worth the risk. having complete confidence in the gun is worth lots.wondering when they are going can only hurt your performance. good luck and above all have fun and be safe. Johnnie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Custom Glock Racing Posted June 15, 2003 Share Posted June 15, 2003 Our THE rods are very durable and have a lifetime replacement warranty. Out of 500+ I have sold only one has broken. Some of the rods in my own guns have 50,000 rounds with no issues. For your 35 I would reccomend the Extended non cap tungsten. I personally prefer noncap and its a lot easier to swap springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad Scientist Posted June 15, 2003 Share Posted June 15, 2003 CGR, I am glad you guys have goten the bugs out of your rods. Most of my exsperiences come from 1911 rods that are plaged with breakages. I gues the recoil impulses are vastly diferent in glocks and the dont take the beating like a1911. I would like to try one and give every one my unbiased report. The problem was so prevelent in1911guns that front sight published an articke intitled how to repair you tungsten guide rods . They would break right at the haed and several people had devised elaberate repairs to salvege there rods.I gots somethings to learn about the glock market. thanks for the education.In my quest for open blasters added weight does not fit into my equasion. but my next project will be a weighted down limmeted gun and a tung rod that is reliable will fit the bill.I am thinking about adding an internal weight under the spring in the plastick channell to ad about 3 0z of matterialto the front. I am also toying with a tung cone or bull barrel look alike with the front of the slide cut out. Think about the advantage. Johnnie 770 277 0586 cell 770 402 1290 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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