Why are dillon powder measures hit and miss with varget?

[steel1212]

I hear a lot of people can't get varget to meter well out of their dillon powder measure. Now I know why it doesn't meter great for some but it does well out of mine. When I say well its with in .1 grain ususally when I check it. I load 27 grains of it for my 55 grainers and it pretty much fills up a case everytime so its easy to tell. I use the rifle charge bar, on a 550 and due to the powder filling up the cases I'm not really cranking them out at a high rate of speed either. The measure was new when I started useing it and I keep it full, read: above half way. I MAY get a clogg every 2-300 or so.

Watch now it won't run for crap but is the reason due to the way the measure part is made and that some just come out better, smoother, than others? I've got a setup for my 308 as well and it throws the just as good and it was new when I got it as well.

[fastshooter03]

As with most things it depends on powder lots and loading techniques and etc......

I can load with Varget on my 650 but slower than I want too or the powder will bind up in the drop funnel. Most other extruded 223 powders I've used work great.

Nick

[warpspeed]

I think it has as much to do with the operator as it does the powder measure itself.

[Michael Carlin]

Extruded powders in the Dillon measure for .223 will not bridge in the bushing nearly as often if the bushing is reamed. You can ream them with a 1/8-1/2" Tempe Taper Reamer. Ream the bushing to reduce the shoulder at the case mouth to about 40% of the factory amount, I have gone as far as removed 75% leaving only about 25% of the factory shoulder. The long taper and the larger opening will help, as will polishing the bushing smooth on the inside.

If you are interested in having a .223 bushing reamed & polished, but do not want to do it for yourself I would do it for you. (For a nominal fee).

Edited April 17, 2008 by Michael Carlin

[chunger]

Extruded powders in the Dillon measure for .223 will not bridge in the bushing nearly as often if the bushing is reamed. You can ream them with a 1/8-1/2" Tempe Taper Reamer. Ream the bushing to reduce the shoulder at the case mouth to about 40% of the factory amount, I have gone as far as removed 75% leaving only about 25% of the factory shoulder. The long taper and the larger opening will help, as will polishing the bushing smooth on the inside.

If you are interested in having a .223 bushing reamed & polished, but do not want to do it for yourself I would do it for you. (For a nominal fee).

Do you have an online source handy for the taper reamer? I worked my bushing a bit with some sandpaper, and it helped a lot in my throw consistency. I'd like to get it better.

[Dan Sierpina]

Do you have an online source handy for the taper reamer? I worked my bushing a bit with some sandpaper, and it helped a lot in my throw consistency. I'd like to get it better.

I believe the reamer can be had from Sears. That's what I remember from a Highpower board.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/search_10153_12...er&sLevel=0

Edited May 28, 2008 by Dan Sierpina

[Rangerat]

First, I agree with warpspeed.

I have no problems with Varget on my 550B with no modifications. Only problem I have noticed, and it is my problem, is if some lube is in the .223Rem case neck. It plugs and spills. A q-tip in and out solves that. I do not use Varget regularly because normal loads can be compressed and I like shaking the loaded round and feeling/hearing the powder as a double check that there is powder in there.

I guess my advice would be, don't be in a hurry with powders that fill a case like Varget.