627 8 Shot 38 Super Cyclinder

[bountyhunter]

Walt, I hear ya. At this point, I can't imagine too many scenarios under which I would send a gun back to S&W.

I have noticed that some people worry too much about the cosmetic aspect of cylinder notch peening. As Bill S. mentioned earlier, any revolver that has been used a lot will exhibit some peening (except perhaps those with Ti cylinders), but in many cases the peening is not creating a functional problem and probably never will.

Revolver shooters tend to worry about stuff that will never matter.

But if that cylinder slot edge is peening.... and the cylinder stop is also peening away at the edge of the frame window, doesn't that mean the cylinder will be over rotating past dead center alignment when it rotates to a stop?

Probably, somewhat, slightly, yes. Out of curosity I've deliberately shot single action groups with my 625 with the cylinder .030 - .040" short of locked. Only noticeable effect was that the 50' groups grew about 3/4" bigger. No, I don't recommend this, but it's good to know.

That's interesting, never heard of anybody testing it that way.

It doesn't shave lead when you do that?

[Tom E]

Walt, I hear ya. At this point, I can't imagine too many scenarios under which I would send a gun back to S&W.

I have noticed that some people worry too much about the cosmetic aspect of cylinder notch peening. As Bill S. mentioned earlier, any revolver that has been used a lot will exhibit some peening (except perhaps those with Ti cylinders), but in many cases the peening is not creating a functional problem and probably never will.

Revolver shooters tend to worry about stuff that will never matter.

But if that cylinder slot edge is peening.... and the cylinder stop is also peening away at the edge of the frame window, doesn't that mean the cylinder will be over rotating past dead center alignment when it rotates to a stop?

Probably, somewhat, slightly, yes. Out of curosity I've deliberately shot single action groups with my 625 with the cylinder .030 - .040" short of locked. Only noticeable effect was that the 50' groups grew about 3/4" bigger. No, I don't recommend this, but it's good to know.

That's interesting, never heard of anybody testing it that way.

It doesn't shave lead when you do that?

Not that I noticed but I only shot one cylinder full.

[Carmoney]

I know what you mean, but all the wear directions are makign the thing go only one way.

Can't argue with that. I do think the peening has a tendency to slow down its progress after awhile, perhaps due to work-hardening of the surfaces. That's one reason why I'm reluctant to go after the ridges with a stone or polisher unless the gun is actually giving me problems. I have plenty of peening visible on my stainless competition guns, and only one of them--and on only one occasion--has ever started skipping (and a new cylinder stop and spring solved that problem even before I "fixed" the ramps).

I know Jerry has indicated he doesn't experience the peening problem with his guns. Others have sent back cylinder after cylinder until they finally give up and switch to Ti. As much as Jerry shoots, and with his multiple guns, I think that is pretty strong evidence that the peening issue varies somewhat from person to person due to gun-handling habits.

Edited February 13, 2008 by Carmoney