Burris Fastfire

[stfla]

Has anyone had any problems zeroing a Burris Fastfire?

thanks,

stfla

[Tactical Timmy]

Has anyone had any problems zeroing a Burris Fastfire?

thanks,

stfla

Yes, it wasnt on a hangun it was for a secondary optic for my rifle. It would not zero. I couldnt even get the dot into the cetner of the window on a flat surface.

I hated it and got rid of it.

[ormondopen]

Has anyone had any problems zeroing a Burris Fastfire?

thanks,

stfla

had no trouble zeroing on my glock.

also it is a good idea to tape the switch on because it will sometimes shut off during recoil.

Edited January 18, 2008 by ormondopen

[mrmetalweld57]

I've got five of them, with no problems so far!

[boz1911]

stfla

also it is a good idea to tape the switch on because it will sometimes shut off during recoil.

WTF?

[Radical Precision Designs]

Has anyone had any problems zeroing a Burris Fastfire?

thanks,

stfla

Steve-

You've seen my Open Glock in action at Markham Park. It is in .357 Sig at 176 PF and has a slide mounted Burris. Holding up very nicely, thank you !!!

Yes, one of the first things I did was to put in a dab of thin silicone sealant in the on-off switch to immobilize it. If you were to use it for "steel" loads or frame mounted, you wouldn't need to do so. But when slide mounted with a steady diet of Major PF loads the switch will soon enough start moving to the off position during recoil. Some time ago I did some R&D on it and reported back to Burris with some suggestions to remedy it. The factory is working on a viable solution, and even a possibility of model without a switch. When you put in the cap, just like the Docter or JPoint the module will hibernate on battery save mode, so there is no issue about leaving the switch in on continually, as when you freeze it in place.

Zeroing in the Burris is the same as the Docter. Just loosen the "lock set-screws" in the back, do your adjustments, and then tighten up the lock screws. Should hold up fine. One item of interest on the Burris is that they come with stronger, better hold down screws than the Docter. You should make sure that you are using the "registration/positioning" pins when you mount it, to maintain your zero placement during battery changes. I have had no issues with zero on mine. Have fun with it.

[mda]

As with any "scope" type of sighting device there is a limited amount of vertical and horzointal adjustment. I mounted a J-point on a gun for someone and did not have enough vertical adjustment. I just purchased 1 Deg angle Shims from Brownells, installed one and problem solved. Also with these sight you move the dot toward the impact location with is backwards from standard Iron sights.

MDA

[ormondopen]

Has anyone had any problems zeroing a Burris Fastfire?

thanks,

stfla

Steve-

You've seen my Open Glock in action at Markham Park. It is in .357 Sig at 176 PF and has a slide mounted Burris. Holding up very nicely, thank you !!!

Yes, one of the first things I did was to put in a dab of thin silicone sealant in the on-off switch to immobilize it. If you were to use it for "steel" loads or frame mounted, you wouldn't need to do so. But when slide mounted with a steady diet of Major PF loads the switch will soon enough start moving to the off position during recoil. Some time ago I did some R&D on it and reported back to Burris with some suggestions to remedy it. The factory is working on a viable solution, and even a possibility of model without a switch. When you put in the cap, just like the Docter or JPoint the module will hibernate on battery save mode, so there is no issue about leaving the switch in on continually, as when you freeze it in place.

Zeroing in the Burris is the same as the Docter. Just loosen the "lock set-screws" in the back, do your adjustments, and then tighten up the lock screws. Should hold up fine. One item of interest on the Burris is that they come with stronger, better hold down screws than the Docter. You should make sure that you are using the "registration/positioning" pins when you mount it, to maintain your zero placement during battery changes. I have had no issues with zero on mine. Have fun with it.

good tip, didnt think about using silicone.

BTW did you send out my new upper? hopefully

Edited January 20, 2008 by ormondopen

[boo radley]

Slight drift -- I'm still thinking about putting one of these on one of my Glocks for training, or maybe dicking around in open minor. A vendor at a gunshow had one, and i played around with it. The dot wasn't circular, but instead looked like a "comet," with a big sideways tail. Is this normal, or bad example?

Does the 4MOA size bother any of y'all?

[ChuckS]

Slight drift -- I'm still thinking about putting one of these on one of my Glocks for training, or maybe dicking around in open minor. A vendor at a gunshow had one, and i played around with it. The dot wasn't circular, but instead looked like a "comet," with a big sideways tail. Is this normal, or bad example?

Does the 4MOA size bother any of y'all?

Boo,

If you have looked at other dots and they seem normal, that one probably has a problem. One thing to consider: if you wear glasses with some sort of vision correction the dot could appear distorted because it is focused for distance. Astigmatism is interesting also.

[ormondopen]

Slight drift -- I'm still thinking about putting one of these on one of my Glocks for training, or maybe dicking around in open minor. A vendor at a gunshow had one, and i played around with it. The dot wasn't circular, but instead looked like a "comet," with a big sideways tail. Is this normal, or bad example?

Does the 4MOA size bother any of y'all?

a dot inside will look hazey, once outside it will be sharper.

[Garrett]

I've been playing with one a little bit. The mounting screws started coming loose early on, in spite of the locking washers. I put on a dab of loctite and re-tightened and haven't had that problem again.

I have seen where they changed the position of the on/off switch. The early models had the switch to the rear for "on". Presumably the switch would want to go forward (and off) when the slide recoiled backward. The newer models have the switch forward for "on". With this setup, I find that if I'm not careful I will sometimes shut it off when I rack the slide. A slide racker would come in handy. That or some forward slide serrations.

In spite of this I'm still happy with it overall.

[Garrett]

It would not zero. I couldnt even get the dot into the cetner of the window on a flat surface.

I hated it and got rid of it.

Don't take this the wrong way, but have you used a red dot sight before? The dot won't stay put in the center of the lense, but will move around when you move your head around. It still stays in the same place on the target, though.

[chrisjohn]

Check out the Ultra Dot l/t. It has a lifetime warranty through Ultra Dot and its housing is alloy. Mine has kept its zero while on a Buckmark and 3K rounds so far.