stfla Posted January 18, 2008 Share Posted January 18, 2008 Has anyone had any problems zeroing a Burris Fastfire? thanks, stfla Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tactical Timmy Posted January 18, 2008 Share Posted January 18, 2008 Has anyone had any problems zeroing a Burris Fastfire? thanks, stfla Yes, it wasnt on a hangun it was for a secondary optic for my rifle. It would not zero. I couldnt even get the dot into the cetner of the window on a flat surface. I hated it and got rid of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ormondopen Posted January 18, 2008 Share Posted January 18, 2008 (edited) Has anyone had any problems zeroing a Burris Fastfire? thanks, stfla had no trouble zeroing on my glock. also it is a good idea to tape the switch on because it will sometimes shut off during recoil. Edited January 18, 2008 by ormondopen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrmetalweld57 Posted January 19, 2008 Share Posted January 19, 2008 I've got five of them, with no problems so far! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boz1911 Posted January 20, 2008 Share Posted January 20, 2008 stfla also it is a good idea to tape the switch on because it will sometimes shut off during recoil. WTF? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radical Precision Designs Posted January 20, 2008 Share Posted January 20, 2008 Has anyone had any problems zeroing a Burris Fastfire? thanks, stfla Steve- You've seen my Open Glock in action at Markham Park. It is in .357 Sig at 176 PF and has a slide mounted Burris. Holding up very nicely, thank you !!! Yes, one of the first things I did was to put in a dab of thin silicone sealant in the on-off switch to immobilize it. If you were to use it for "steel" loads or frame mounted, you wouldn't need to do so. But when slide mounted with a steady diet of Major PF loads the switch will soon enough start moving to the off position during recoil. Some time ago I did some R&D on it and reported back to Burris with some suggestions to remedy it. The factory is working on a viable solution, and even a possibility of model without a switch. When you put in the cap, just like the Docter or JPoint the module will hibernate on battery save mode, so there is no issue about leaving the switch in on continually, as when you freeze it in place. Zeroing in the Burris is the same as the Docter. Just loosen the "lock set-screws" in the back, do your adjustments, and then tighten up the lock screws. Should hold up fine. One item of interest on the Burris is that they come with stronger, better hold down screws than the Docter. You should make sure that you are using the "registration/positioning" pins when you mount it, to maintain your zero placement during battery changes. I have had no issues with zero on mine. Have fun with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mda Posted January 20, 2008 Share Posted January 20, 2008 As with any "scope" type of sighting device there is a limited amount of vertical and horzointal adjustment. I mounted a J-point on a gun for someone and did not have enough vertical adjustment. I just purchased 1 Deg angle Shims from Brownells, installed one and problem solved. Also with these sight you move the dot toward the impact location with is backwards from standard Iron sights. MDA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ormondopen Posted January 20, 2008 Share Posted January 20, 2008 (edited) Has anyone had any problems zeroing a Burris Fastfire? thanks, stfla Steve- You've seen my Open Glock in action at Markham Park. It is in .357 Sig at 176 PF and has a slide mounted Burris. Holding up very nicely, thank you !!! Yes, one of the first things I did was to put in a dab of thin silicone sealant in the on-off switch to immobilize it. If you were to use it for "steel" loads or frame mounted, you wouldn't need to do so. But when slide mounted with a steady diet of Major PF loads the switch will soon enough start moving to the off position during recoil. Some time ago I did some R&D on it and reported back to Burris with some suggestions to remedy it. The factory is working on a viable solution, and even a possibility of model without a switch. When you put in the cap, just like the Docter or JPoint the module will hibernate on battery save mode, so there is no issue about leaving the switch in on continually, as when you freeze it in place. Zeroing in the Burris is the same as the Docter. Just loosen the "lock set-screws" in the back, do your adjustments, and then tighten up the lock screws. Should hold up fine. One item of interest on the Burris is that they come with stronger, better hold down screws than the Docter. You should make sure that you are using the "registration/positioning" pins when you mount it, to maintain your zero placement during battery changes. I have had no issues with zero on mine. Have fun with it. good tip, didnt think about using silicone. BTW did you send out my new upper? hopefully Edited January 20, 2008 by ormondopen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boo radley Posted January 20, 2008 Share Posted January 20, 2008 Slight drift -- I'm still thinking about putting one of these on one of my Glocks for training, or maybe dicking around in open minor. A vendor at a gunshow had one, and i played around with it. The dot wasn't circular, but instead looked like a "comet," with a big sideways tail. Is this normal, or bad example? Does the 4MOA size bother any of y'all? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChuckS Posted January 20, 2008 Share Posted January 20, 2008 Slight drift -- I'm still thinking about putting one of these on one of my Glocks for training, or maybe dicking around in open minor. A vendor at a gunshow had one, and i played around with it. The dot wasn't circular, but instead looked like a "comet," with a big sideways tail. Is this normal, or bad example?Does the 4MOA size bother any of y'all? Boo, If you have looked at other dots and they seem normal, that one probably has a problem. One thing to consider: if you wear glasses with some sort of vision correction the dot could appear distorted because it is focused for distance. Astigmatism is interesting also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ormondopen Posted January 20, 2008 Share Posted January 20, 2008 Slight drift -- I'm still thinking about putting one of these on one of my Glocks for training, or maybe dicking around in open minor. A vendor at a gunshow had one, and i played around with it. The dot wasn't circular, but instead looked like a "comet," with a big sideways tail. Is this normal, or bad example?Does the 4MOA size bother any of y'all? a dot inside will look hazey, once outside it will be sharper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Posted January 26, 2008 Share Posted January 26, 2008 I've been playing with one a little bit. The mounting screws started coming loose early on, in spite of the locking washers. I put on a dab of loctite and re-tightened and haven't had that problem again. I have seen where they changed the position of the on/off switch. The early models had the switch to the rear for "on". Presumably the switch would want to go forward (and off) when the slide recoiled backward. The newer models have the switch forward for "on". With this setup, I find that if I'm not careful I will sometimes shut it off when I rack the slide. A slide racker would come in handy. That or some forward slide serrations. In spite of this I'm still happy with it overall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garrett Posted January 26, 2008 Share Posted January 26, 2008 It would not zero. I couldnt even get the dot into the cetner of the window on a flat surface.I hated it and got rid of it. Don't take this the wrong way, but have you used a red dot sight before? The dot won't stay put in the center of the lense, but will move around when you move your head around. It still stays in the same place on the target, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisjohn Posted January 30, 2008 Share Posted January 30, 2008 Check out the Ultra Dot l/t. It has a lifetime warranty through Ultra Dot and its housing is alloy. Mine has kept its zero while on a Buckmark and 3K rounds so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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